$6,000 pretty firm. Canary yellow, 122k miles, No rust, 400ish hp, lots of new and lightly used parts.
Engine:
308 Jasper rebuild with about 20k miles on it
Y303 aluminum heads with 300 miles on them. titanium 10 deg retainers and locks, comp 7 angle valve job, hand blended bowls, exhaust ported, gasket matched to a 1250 intake gasket.
NGK BKR6E plugs, MSD coil
felpro 9333pt1 head gaskets,
TrickFlow street heat intake and elbow.
Cobra crane 1.7 ratio roller rockers
ARP head bolts
Resorted PCV and vacuum system set up for a boost.
Power adder fuel and tune:
Custom tune on moates quarterhorse. Since installing the wide band I have written a better more aggressive tune, but haven't loaded it yet. Takes 5 seconds, just haven’t had time to test it since it is dark when I get home now. I have all the definitions, bin, and acquisition files for datalogging, tuning, etc… with the free software (protuner). I am currently seeing A/F of 11.8ish at WOT, it is very conservative tune with only 14-15 degrees total timing. Gets about 20 mpg highway, I leaned up the cruising A/F in the newer tune I built, so that should improve a touch too.
38lb lucas injectors @ 50 PSI WOT in boost (good for about 450 hp)
pro-M 88 mm MAF – draw through, mounted in the fender well.
S-trim kit with 2.95" pulley and large 6.88" crank pulley - 13-14 lbs of boost
8-rib drive and tensioner and crank pulley.
Aftermarket all metal bypass valve (unsure of brand, but it works well).
255 lph in tank pump
Adjustable regulator on the rail
Mechanical fuel pressure gauge with isolator
Boost gauge in pillar pod
LC-1 innovate wideband with blue digital gauge mounted in the pillar pod
Still has an FMU in the car, but it is not hooked up to the vacuum boost reference
Custom built 3.5” Powerpipe
Cooling:
2 core all aluminum radiator
160 deg high flow themostat
Fans set up in the tune to keep it running under 180
Runs very cool in all conditions that I have driven it in
Tune is set up so it is not overly rich at the lower operating temp
Suspension and wheels:
Cobra R 17 x 9 wheels with newer tires on the front and BFG KDWs on the back. 1.79 60’ on these tires at the track.
New KYB struts on the front
New Monroe replacement shocks on the rear
Eibach lowering springs all the way around
Could use some caster camber plates up front – the alignment is good and it goes straight, but it obviously has a bit of positive camber from lowering the front.
SSM lower control arms with relocation bracket
Still has front and rear sway bar
Rear axle
New outer wheel bearings and axle seals
F150 31 spline carrier
freshly rebuilt trac-lok with 4 clutches per side and F-150 spring, new center pin and bolt
3.73 FRPP gears (the older stronger style) with correct speedo gear
New fluid and pinion seal
31 spline superior axles c-clip
new heavy duty U-joints in the driveshaft
rear set up with 0.010” backlash, proper gear engagement checked with marking compound
Exhaust
BBK equal length shorties
Off-road H-pipe with wideband bung 2 ½”
Flowmaster catback 2 ½”
Also has pro 5.0 shifter, CD player with aux input, boost and FP gauges.
Positives:
AC blows cold
PS works
PW works
EGR and emissions stuff deleted, smog pump delete
Great Oil pressure (new sending unit)
New oil return line on supercharger
No oil, coolant, or gear oil leaks
Most of the parts are new
Car is straight, goes down the road straight, is completely driveable and will chug along at 1200 rpms just as happily as a stock car, gets a little over 20 mpg on the hiway and less in town depending on how you operate the loud pedal.
What it needs:
E-brake mechanism inside the console is broken, all the cables are still there and functional, just needs whatever broke inside the console to be repaired.
The rear trans seal has a slight seep, I have a replacement seal, just haven’t put it in yet
CC plates would be nice, but not necessary at this point
I have a clutch quad and adjuster that I haven’t installed yet
Driver’s side lock switch quit working.
A few of the front end pieces have been repainted. Under normal daylight lighting, it is hard to tell, but under certain fluorescent lighting you can see a slight difference from panel to panel. I'd give the paint an 8.5 out of 10 all around and I am fairly picky.
video - ran a 12.2 @ 114 with a 1.6 60' and 3500 rpm launch. Easy 11 second car. Has another 30-50hp in the tune and a lot of launch RPM to play with, not to mention it should be a lot easier to shift with a new clutch quad and adjuster. I only took it to the track once and it is a 2 hr drive each way, so I didn't beat on it, this was the only pass I made on slicks.
YouTube - 12.2 at 114 canary.mpg
Engine:
308 Jasper rebuild with about 20k miles on it
Y303 aluminum heads with 300 miles on them. titanium 10 deg retainers and locks, comp 7 angle valve job, hand blended bowls, exhaust ported, gasket matched to a 1250 intake gasket.
NGK BKR6E plugs, MSD coil
felpro 9333pt1 head gaskets,
TrickFlow street heat intake and elbow.
Cobra crane 1.7 ratio roller rockers
ARP head bolts
Resorted PCV and vacuum system set up for a boost.
Power adder fuel and tune:
Custom tune on moates quarterhorse. Since installing the wide band I have written a better more aggressive tune, but haven't loaded it yet. Takes 5 seconds, just haven’t had time to test it since it is dark when I get home now. I have all the definitions, bin, and acquisition files for datalogging, tuning, etc… with the free software (protuner). I am currently seeing A/F of 11.8ish at WOT, it is very conservative tune with only 14-15 degrees total timing. Gets about 20 mpg highway, I leaned up the cruising A/F in the newer tune I built, so that should improve a touch too.
38lb lucas injectors @ 50 PSI WOT in boost (good for about 450 hp)
pro-M 88 mm MAF – draw through, mounted in the fender well.
S-trim kit with 2.95" pulley and large 6.88" crank pulley - 13-14 lbs of boost
8-rib drive and tensioner and crank pulley.
Aftermarket all metal bypass valve (unsure of brand, but it works well).
255 lph in tank pump
Adjustable regulator on the rail
Mechanical fuel pressure gauge with isolator
Boost gauge in pillar pod
LC-1 innovate wideband with blue digital gauge mounted in the pillar pod
Still has an FMU in the car, but it is not hooked up to the vacuum boost reference
Custom built 3.5” Powerpipe
Cooling:
2 core all aluminum radiator
160 deg high flow themostat
Fans set up in the tune to keep it running under 180
Runs very cool in all conditions that I have driven it in
Tune is set up so it is not overly rich at the lower operating temp
Suspension and wheels:
Cobra R 17 x 9 wheels with newer tires on the front and BFG KDWs on the back. 1.79 60’ on these tires at the track.
New KYB struts on the front
New Monroe replacement shocks on the rear
Eibach lowering springs all the way around
Could use some caster camber plates up front – the alignment is good and it goes straight, but it obviously has a bit of positive camber from lowering the front.
SSM lower control arms with relocation bracket
Still has front and rear sway bar
Rear axle
New outer wheel bearings and axle seals
F150 31 spline carrier
freshly rebuilt trac-lok with 4 clutches per side and F-150 spring, new center pin and bolt
3.73 FRPP gears (the older stronger style) with correct speedo gear
New fluid and pinion seal
31 spline superior axles c-clip
new heavy duty U-joints in the driveshaft
rear set up with 0.010” backlash, proper gear engagement checked with marking compound
Exhaust
BBK equal length shorties
Off-road H-pipe with wideband bung 2 ½”
Flowmaster catback 2 ½”
Also has pro 5.0 shifter, CD player with aux input, boost and FP gauges.
Positives:
AC blows cold
PS works
PW works
EGR and emissions stuff deleted, smog pump delete
Great Oil pressure (new sending unit)
New oil return line on supercharger
No oil, coolant, or gear oil leaks
Most of the parts are new
Car is straight, goes down the road straight, is completely driveable and will chug along at 1200 rpms just as happily as a stock car, gets a little over 20 mpg on the hiway and less in town depending on how you operate the loud pedal.
What it needs:
E-brake mechanism inside the console is broken, all the cables are still there and functional, just needs whatever broke inside the console to be repaired.
The rear trans seal has a slight seep, I have a replacement seal, just haven’t put it in yet
CC plates would be nice, but not necessary at this point
I have a clutch quad and adjuster that I haven’t installed yet
Driver’s side lock switch quit working.
A few of the front end pieces have been repainted. Under normal daylight lighting, it is hard to tell, but under certain fluorescent lighting you can see a slight difference from panel to panel. I'd give the paint an 8.5 out of 10 all around and I am fairly picky.
video - ran a 12.2 @ 114 with a 1.6 60' and 3500 rpm launch. Easy 11 second car. Has another 30-50hp in the tune and a lot of launch RPM to play with, not to mention it should be a lot easier to shift with a new clutch quad and adjuster. I only took it to the track once and it is a 2 hr drive each way, so I didn't beat on it, this was the only pass I made on slicks.
YouTube - 12.2 at 114 canary.mpg
