94 GT transmission

drakesdad · Mar 22, 2010

Not to confuse you more....... SOME of us have AODE's What I have found that works for me is to leave the trans hooked to the engine, remove the Hpipe and crossmember, after putting a jack under the trans, slowly lower the jack , which will tilt the engine and allow you to get to the top two bolts, make sure you leave the bottom bolts in, then once you get th top 2 out raise the engine back level, doesn't hurt to have a "spotter" watching the rear of the engine when you lower the trans to watch clearance......hope you get it.

UTGAMER said:
Well the weather has been cold and wet here so havent got to work on it since saturday night. I did however get a 10" extension even though we pieced a few together along with a u joint but couldnt really get it on the bolt good enough to break it. From what Ive read and seen pics of after driving yall nutts and lots more research is that I dont think the motor, or trans w/e one needs to be maybe both lol Im new to this, sorry, but is not low enough cause the pics Ive seen is the tail down and the darn bolts on top are looking right at u, but for me they are hidden, should I remove jack from under tranny? Jack the motor up I mean Ive heard so much I dunno which to do

I have read "The MUstang'" thread on this, but since his tranny was an automatic getting took out I think I may be in a lil diff situation. This is my first big job on a car and I hate it so far. I was looking forward to it haha

The Haynes manual has been off and if not for u guys Id be in real bad shape

UTGAMER · Mar 23, 2010

Yea I finally got it. Didnt rain today. Now I hear a lil chirp while I idle, but if I press clutch in just a tad it will stop, yall think this is Serpentine

Adam95GT · Mar 24, 2010

UTGAMER said:
Yea I finally got it. Didnt rain today. Now I hear a lil chirp while I idle, but if I press clutch in just a tad it will stop, yall think this is Serpentine

No that has nothing to do with the engine... its a TOB problem... either its bad... or your clutch needs to be adjusted (FWA) or quad.

UTGAMER · Mar 24, 2010

Well I just replaced clutch, so its a new TOB. Maybe tighten clutch

Adam95GT · Mar 24, 2010

UTGAMER said:
Well I just replaced clutch, so its a new TOB. Maybe tighten clutch

Hows your clutch cable looking???

UTGAMER · Mar 24, 2010

Great condition. I haven't really adjusted clutch yet. I reckon Ill do that tomorrow and see

99FiveOh · Mar 24, 2010

do not adjust your clutch so there is any preload. The throwout bearing should not be pushed against the pressure plate while at rest.

UTGAMER · Mar 24, 2010

I dont know how to get it just right. I tightened it and the noise was gone but clutch released too high, now it dont do it at idle and its kinda too soon, but chirps when pushed it like when foot resting on( I know bad habit)

revhead347 · Mar 24, 2010

Yeah, the clutch fork should actually wiggle a little bit. You want the throw out bearing to be away from the pressure plate when you are off the pedal. That will keep it from wearing out so fast.

Kurt

UTGAMER · Mar 24, 2010

Hey Rev just noticed your in Acworth, Im not too far from ya up in Dalton

revhead347 · Mar 24, 2010

Yeah, I'm off I-75 exit 273, near Lake Allatoona. Dalton is a ways up there though.

Kurt

95steeda · Mar 24, 2010

Maybe U-joints. I had a chirp that would go away when I pressed the clutch. Replaced U-joints and it went away for good.

Whoops, just read you adjusted clutch and it went away.

99FiveOh · Mar 25, 2010

Plus, U joints cause no symptoms when the car is stationary.

95steeda · Mar 26, 2010

The_Mustang said:
Plus, U joints cause no symptoms when the car is stationary.

Yea, I read it as noise while driving, then engaged the clutch and it went away. Just read it again and saw at idle.

94 GT transmission

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Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.

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Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.

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