94 gt

When you say the heads need machined bad-whaddya mean? Are they warped? Head gaskets blown? Valve seals shot?
In my opinion-and it’s only my opinion (with some personal experience thrown in) not much value investing money in the E7’s. Aluminum heads would be top of the mark, a good set of GT40’s off an explorer would be a budget friendly upgrade if you can find a pair in good shape.
 
I second the vote for some JY gt40 heads. Your heads would need to go to the machine shop anyway. Even brand new heads should be checked for flatness before they get bolted on.

The gt40 heads only work with certain headers though. Might have to use short header spark plugs.

Most aftermarket heads will work with stock headers. ( don't know why anyone would want to do that though ).

The simplest most reliable way is to get the heads you have fixed. Talk to the machine shop about putting larger valves in the e7 heads...and maybe a little porting to the exhaust ports. I made decent power with ported e7 heads. Thats all us broke kids could afford back in the days. Bigger valves, stronger springs, a little porting, an alphabet cam, and roller rockers. Back then even explorer intakes were hard to come buy.
 
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Here is my opinion, as a budget builder that wants to have a fun car to drive. Keep in mind you are not thinking you can out run most if not any car built after 2010, yes even a prius, but you can merge into traffic and run along with confidence on the big roads cruising in style.
You can get your heads rebuilt and retain the stock stuff and be happy with a snappy little driver or step it up with a few ponies using Ford factory stuff for a few dollars more.
Gt40 heads, these are three bar explorer heads, it's a Ford updated head with low end torque in mind, stay away from the gt40p heads unless you want to add different plug wires and ceramic insulators to protect the plug wires. Header fitment is hit or miss, I believe not worth the hassle extra expense for a cruiser.
They need a better valve spring for the HO cam and this can be addressed when the machine shop does the rebuild on them. The money spent will be just a few bucks more than rebuilding the E7 heads.
Grab the matching explorer upper/lower intake, now you can just slap this on and all the stock stuff and run it with pride or spend a few dollars more and get the lower ported, adapt the explorer throttle body and gain a couple more ponies.
Headers: I suggest getting new headers for two reasons, they look better than the stockers and when ceramic coated they are supposed to help with under hood temps.
There is no reason to rebuild the E7 heads unless you need the points for the show field, Ford made a better head why not take advantage?
Now the iron verses aluminium head debate.
If you have the money aluminium is a great update as long as you keep in mind what you are using the car for, bigger is not always better.
I have watched many iron verses aluminium head dyno tests and unless you are looking to get to a certain power level the biggest gain you get with aluminium heads is the weight savings and in reality you don't see the gains unless looking for a certain number.
Now if you can afford the aluminium heads get 'em, just keep the ' bigger is not better' thing in mind, planning is key to building a reliable, spirited driver on a budget.
This is my opinion based on many miles of driving my mildly modified mustang.
 
When you say the heads need machined bad-whaddya mean? Are they warped? Head gaskets blown? Valve seals shot?
In my opinion-and it’s only my opinion (with some personal experience thrown in) not much value investing money in the E7’s. Aluminum heads would be top of the mark, a good set of GT40’s off an explorer would be a budget friendly upgrade if you can find a pair in good shape.
so the car sat for a very long time (11 years) it just needs a good tune up and it’s not making enough and not nearly enough power it should be so i’m thinking resurfacing the heads would help and cleaning the intake and all that
 
Here is my opinion, as a budget builder that wants to have a fun car to drive. Keep in mind you are not thinking you can out run most if not any car built after 2010, yes even a prius, but you can merge into traffic and run along with confidence on the big roads cruising in style.
You can get your heads rebuilt and retain the stock stuff and be happy with a snappy little driver or step it up with a few ponies using Ford factory stuff for a few dollars more.
Gt40 heads, these are three bar explorer heads, it's a Ford updated head with low end torque in mind, stay away from the gt40p heads unless you want to add different plug wires and ceramic insulators to protect the plug wires. Header fitment is hit or miss, I believe not worth the hassle extra expense for a cruiser.
They need a better valve spring for the HO cam and this can be addressed when the machine shop does the rebuild on them. The money spent will be just a few bucks more than rebuilding the E7 heads.
Grab the matching explorer upper/lower intake, now you can just slap this on and all the stock stuff and run it with pride or spend a few dollars more and get the lower ported, adapt the explorer throttle body and gain a couple more ponies.
Headers: I suggest getting new headers for two reasons, they look better than the stockers and when ceramic coated they are supposed to help with under hood temps.
There is no reason to rebuild the E7 heads unless you need the points for the show field, Ford made a better head why not take advantage?
Now the iron verses aluminium head debate.
If you have the money aluminium is a great update as long as you keep in mind what you are using the car for, bigger is not always better.
I have watched many iron verses aluminium head dyno tests and unless you are looking to get to a certain power level the biggest gain you get with aluminium heads is the weight savings and in reality you don't see the gains unless looking for a certain number.
Now if you can afford the aluminium heads get 'em, just keep the ' bigger is not better' thing in mind, planning is key to building a reliable, spirited driver on a budget.
This is my opinion based on many miles of driving my mildly modified mustang.
thank you, and also with gt40 heads i hear that a lot of people have problems with the lower end
 
thank you, and also with gt40 heads i hear that a lot of people have problems with the lower end
I also bought or got some shortie headers not really sure what they r, they are from a foxbody but i read they bolt right up, if anyone has any suggestions what the problem is for the power instead of a tune up i’m open to it, it idles rough for a sock gt and for sitting for 11 years it could be so many things so any suggestions?
 
thank you, and also with gt40 heads i hear that a lot of people have problems with the lower end
People have problems with their bottom ends because they are full of :poo:.
Stick with us, we are here to help not hype.
If this car has been sitting for that long there are some things you need to do before you can jump in and :burnout:
Pull the fuel tank and inspect the inside, replace the fuel pump, you don't need a big gpm pump, just the next step up from stock. Blow out the fuel lines and replace the filter.
Do a compression test
New plugs, wires cap and rotor, nothing fancy, stock replacements
Check the radiator/hoses for leaks/cracks
This will get you in a position to start and run the engine.
 
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The most common issue to cause running issues here are vacuum leaks.

You do need to check and clean out the fuel system too though. The sludge from fuel sitting in the rails can clog injectors.

One thing at a time and you'll get there. My advise is after each repair start the car and see how it runs. Doing too many things at once can introduce an issue that can be hard to diagnose after so many things have been done. One step at a time man.

Pull the spark plugs and put them I'm a piece of cardboard that's numbered for each cylinder and take a pic. Post that here and we can try to look at them to decipher what cylinders are having an issue. There are a bunch of things that can cause a car to run rough....especially after sitting 11 years.
 
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