94 Mustang GT fuel pump wiring
- Thread starter LZSN95
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Surprised you didn't get a response from somebody here so I'll say consult the pump manufacturer, I've never done a 340 pump but would think the wires would be ok, check the amps from the manufacturer against the amps the stock pump pulls.
Thanks. I think I'm gonna run the heavy gauge wire so I dont have to worry about it. Not sure if I'm gonna do it myself or buy the harness. Aeromotive sells a heavy gauge wire kit from a relay to the pump and pro m sells a heavy gauge wire kit for the fuel pump plug. From what I've heard it's not if it will burn up it's when will it burn up. Thanks for the reply at least.
You should for that size pump, especially for a turbo car (I wouldn't want voltage drop to cause a flow issue when under fuel boost). IIRC, aeromotive suggests a 10 guage wire minimum, directly from the battery or alternator (fused of course). IIRC, you're car has a 20 amp fuse on the factory fuel pump which is just adequate to drive that pump. I'd upgrade to 10 gauge wiring, a 30 amp fuse and associated relay to drive that pump. You can buy a pre-made kit, or it's quite easy to wire up your own. I would just upgrade the wiring going to the fuel pump (bypass the inertia switch or integrate it into the control side of the relay) and rewire the existing control into the new relay. Feed the high current side of the relay (going to the pump) from a direct DC source under the hood. Make sure your ground is good also going to the fuel pump.
Thank you. I'm pretty sure I'm gonna be upgrading the wiring. All I wanted to do is put a turbo on my car Haha.
Tell me about it. Turbo is on the car. Fuel system is the last thing that need to be addressed, at this point, hahha. I just want to do it right the first time.
You just think it's the last thing!
the quest for power is a never ending journey.
the quest for power is a never ending journey.
Very true. I dont remember when my quest started, but it was a very long time ago. Possibly in the womb. NEED MORE POWER!!!!
jozsefsz
15 Year Member
Alternatively, you could use a 255lph pump and skip the hassle. Rail's good for 600hp, engine block's good for 500hp max, 255lph good for 500-600+ depending on who you ask and works just fine with stock wiring (if it's in decent shape). Never had a fuel problem running a Walbro 255 since 2009 on a near-stock 5.0 '95 @~11psi. If you're going for more, and have an aftermarket block, then by all means upgrade, but your fuel rail will probably need to be next. 340's overkill for the stock block and fuel system so why bother.
Thank you. Yes I thought about that as well. I'm running a totally modified on3performance kit 70/96 (I know it's a little big), 42lb inj, stock fuel rails, aeromotive regulator, stock distributor, Gt40 top end, stock throttle body, stock block. I already bought the pump so I'm just gonna put it in and run the wiring myself. I guess I was worried about not having enough so I went with the bigger pump. Have you ever dynoed your car? If so what number did you make if you dont mind?
jozsefsz
15 Year Member
I run 42lb injectors as well, you'll probably max out around the same 12psi mine will support with reasonable duty cycles (a faulty boost controller took me to 15psi which I couldn't run safely for long). You'll definitely want a better MAF to go with them - the stocker will peg the needle at much lower than you'll be able to flow. The stock distributor will be fine (of course you'll want to tune in some boost retard) but the TFI coil needs an upgrade (Accel works great for me, MSD was a dud) and spark plugs will need down-gapping. The stock clutch won't be fine, and the stock transmission won't either if you get too crazy or run slicks.
I'm a totally DIY kinda guy (read that as cheapskate), tuned it myself after learning Binary Editor and Quarterhorse. I've never sprung for a dyno tune or run, nearest place to me wanted $700 and that's too rich for my blood.
Been running strong with the turbo without grenading the engine and still passing emissions since 2009 so I must have done ok. So I have no idea what it's putting down. Binary Editor estimated 510hp and 600ft/lb however it calculates things according to theoretical volumetric efficiency and fuel consumption at the higher boost level (11-12). Realistically I have no idea - dyno calibration makes that a kind of meaningless number anyways in my book. It's fast enough for me, low 12's at the track on street tires and I suck (good at missing shifts under stress and have the reaction time of a typical old man, which I am).
I'm a totally DIY kinda guy (read that as cheapskate), tuned it myself after learning Binary Editor and Quarterhorse. I've never sprung for a dyno tune or run, nearest place to me wanted $700 and that's too rich for my blood.
Been running strong with the turbo without grenading the engine and still passing emissions since 2009 so I must have done ok. So I have no idea what it's putting down. Binary Editor estimated 510hp and 600ft/lb however it calculates things according to theoretical volumetric efficiency and fuel consumption at the higher boost level (11-12). Realistically I have no idea - dyno calibration makes that a kind of meaningless number anyways in my book. It's fast enough for me, low 12's at the track on street tires and I suck (good at missing shifts under stress and have the reaction time of a typical old man, which I am).Yeah. I switched to MAP (I went with stinger performance) plugs have been gapped. Somewhere along the line someone put a Mallory coil on it so well see how that holds up. I know the trans and clutch is going to go sooner than later (I'll be saving up for a tko or something). I've been messing around with the tuning while it was NA getting my feet wet. My goal for this car has always been to keep it a street car (it still has AC) making around 450ish hp and I want to take it to the track to see what it dose eventually. It's not gonna be a track car it's gonna be a street car that gets driven to work very frequently.
Just a quick little update. I was taking my old fuel pump out So I could put in my new 340LPH pump only to find out that there is already a walbro GSS340 in their. I saw it and was like, no way!
jozsefsz
15 Year Member
For a daily driver on a stock block I'd keep the Walbro, especially if you can get your money back on the aeromotive, it's all you need. It's a good pump. If you can't get your money back, 340>255.
I kept the aeromotive 340lph (I already opened it) and put the walbro 340lph in the box.For a daily driver on a stock block I'd keep the Walbro, especially if you can get your money back on the aeromotive, it's all you need. It's a good pump. If you can't get your money back, 340>255.
jozsefsz
15 Year Member
Thanks for the heads up. Looks like I should run that wire after all. I dont want to take any chances. I already put the pump in and I'd rather have it and not need the the other way around. I'm sure it will come in handy in the near future.FYI the GSS340 is a 255lph unit. Makes sense, I know.
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