94 steering problems

[zap-o-matic]

So I just recently purchased a 94 Mustang, and got it road worthy. Now that I am able to drive it, I noticed that the steering doesn't feel right. While driving, you can barely cut the wheel either way and it darts to that direction. Its not that its sloppy at all, but it seems a bit too responsive. If you cut it too hard it feels like its trying to come around on you. Its not a problem on the interstate, but on country roads in curves, it doesn't feel like it wants to grip the road at all, but just wants to turn. I know I have probably made this as clear as mud, but this is my first (newer) Mustang and I was just wondering if this may be typical for these cars.
It almost feels like a go-kart.

The car is a factory 6cyl car with power steering , and I have dropped a 351 Cleveland in it, so I know it isn't going to drive as good as stock, but I don't believe it should drive like this.

Also I have had the car aligned recently, and replaced an inner tie rod.
So any thoughts?

 

[HISSIN50]

Was the alignment before or after the tie rod was replaced?

Was it done after the new engine was installed (and the ride height was otherwise set)?

What kind of camber and toe settings do you have right now? Camber and toe can both affect turn-in or dartyness.

 

[zap-o-matic]

Was the alignment before or after the tie rod was replaced?

Was it done after the new engine was installed (and the ride height was otherwise set)?

What kind of camber and toe settings do you have right now? Camber and toe can both affect turn-in or dartyness.

The alignment was right after we replaced the tie rod, it was just set to the preferred settings according to the alignment machine, and the engine was in it. I had a very reputable mechanic help me replace the tie rod, and he also did the alignment, so I don't believe that either was done wrong, but it is still a possibility.

 

[HISSIN50]

The alignment specs are rather broad. And if the car is lowered, I would be happy with only some portions of the spec (i.e., positive camber is a no-no, even though it's allowed). Did you get a print-out with the specs?

 

[zap-o-matic]

No, I never even thought to get it....the car hasn't been lowered (to my knowledge) but im sure the front does sit lower than stock with the excess weight. I believe I may just bite the bullet and get it re-aligned to rule that out...what kind of specs do most people run on these cars? Im just looking to get it where it will hug the curves a bit better, with out feeling like im going to put it in the ditch Lol, and more importantly get it comfortable to drive.

 

[earleys94gt]

I say get it on the alignment rack again and see what adjustments can be made.

 

[toyman]

No, I never even thought to get it....the car hasn't been lowered (to my knowledge) but im sure the front does sit lower than stock with the excess weight. I believe I may just bite the bullet and get it re-aligned to rule that out...what kind of specs do most people run on these cars? Im just looking to get it where it will hug the curves a bit better, with out feeling like im going to put it in the ditch Lol, and more importantly get it comfortable to drive.

What size tires are on the front? Wider tires generally are more troublesome than narrower tires. Note also, that performance tires tend to follow the wear ruts in the road something that's fairly common on older secondary roads vs. expressways. On mine certain roads seem to be worse than others. I've found that driving out of that well traveled portion of the road really helps.

Suggested alignment specs are:

Camber -0.25 to -1.0* each side
Toe 0.0" to 1/32" each side.

If you have CC plates caster should be 2.5* to 3.0*or more degrees positive

 

[zap-o-matic]

When I had it lined up it had 215/65/16's on it, since then I put 245/45/17's. Ill try the specs:
Camber -0.25 to -1.0* each side
Toe 0.0" to 1/32" each side.
and see how it goes.

 

[HISSIN50]

FWIW, generally toe is set a little bit 'in' so that when the suspension loads up while driving, it's near zero or slightly toed-in for stability concerns. If toed-out dynamically, it can create dartyness.

 

[zap-o-matic]

alright, I got an appointment to get it lined up (hopefully) next week. Ill keep you posted.

 

[Blackponies]

I had the same problem with both an 88 GT and my 95 GT. Both times it turned out to be tires. Somebody had put taller/wider tires on the back of the 88 GT and it really screwed with the geometry somehow. When I replaced the tires with the stock size/type it fixed the problem. It wasn't as severe on my 95 GT but it still did it. I could start into a gentle turn and let go of the wheel and it would just keep turning into the turn until I grabbed it to stop it. I had both cars aligned several times at different shops but the problems persisted until I replaced the tires with the stock size and type (speed ratings, etc). I am now having a problem with my 04 GT tracking humps in the road. The dealership I bought the car from put a cheap set of Kumhos on it that are the correct size but they are all seasons with the wrong speed ratings, etc. I'm betting I have the same problem again since the car only had 38K miles on it when I bought it and it has tracked humps/valleys since I bought it. I had it aligned and it helped a little but it still does it. Good luck!

 

[zap-o-matic]

thanks. I still haven't had time to get mine lined up, but I swear ill post when I (finally) get it done lol

 

[revhead347]

It seems all the critical information has been presented. It's important to note that you can NOT use the factory alignment specs on a lowered car. Steeda has a chart of alignment specs on their website. I think Maximum motorsports does too. There are different specs available depending on how you want the car to perform. Another thing to keep in mind. The outer tie rod ends have a high failure rate. Check to see if they have been replaced before. Given the cost of alignment, I would recommend going ahead and changing the outer tie rod ends if they have not already been done.

Kurt

 

[revhead347]

It seems all the critical information has been presented. It's important to note that you can NOT use the factory alignment specs on a lowered car. Steeda has a chart of alignment specs on their website. I think Maximum motorsports does too. There are different specs available depending on how you want the car to perform. Another thing to keep in mind. The outer tie rod ends have a high failure rate. Check to see if they have been replaced before. Given the cost of alignment, I would recommend going ahead and changing the outer tie rod ends if they have not already been done.

Kurt