95 GT, help after Vortech install..

96pushrod

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May 15, 2018
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#21
Ok good, I run the green giant injectors as well so it should be compatible.

I’ll pm you. I think putting in the t4m0 and trying out this tune would be worth a shot.
 
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Apr 7, 2017
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#22
Ok good, I run the green giant injectors as well so it should be compatible.

I’ll pm you. I think putting in the t4m0 and trying out this tune would be worth a shot.
If the PCM is interchangable.. shouldn't I be able to just upload this through my quarterhorse and go?

Or what am I missing here hahah
 

a91what

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#24
Not totally familiar with the 95ecu... does it have 'failed maf load' tables? If it does you can unplug the maf and trim that table by 35% to see if it will idle.

Go into the ignition tables and zero them all out except the base table, lock it in at 15* one variable removed.

You can also zero (set to 1 if lambda 14.7 of afr) the fuel trim tables and only run the failed maf
 
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#25
Not totally familiar with the 95ecu... does it have 'failed maf load' tables? If it does you can unplug the maf and trim that table by 35% to see if it will idle.

Go into the ignition tables and zero them all out except the base table, lock it in at 15* one variable removed.

You can also zero (set to 1 if lambda 14.7 of afr) the fuel trim tables and only run the failed maf
No it does not. The computer says it's working perfectly fine.

MAF unplugged it will not fire up without flooring the pedal, and once it does, soon as you let off, it dies.

It's gotta be the maf that got trashed when it got wet real quick. New one here Monday. Only thing left it can be.
 

a91what

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#26
No it does not. The computer says it's working perfectly fine.

MAF unplugged it will not fire up without flooring the pedal, and once it does, soon as you let off, it dies.

It's gotta be the maf that got trashed when it got wet real quick. New one here Monday. Only thing left it can be.
I am not talking about the maf, I am talking about the tune. There has to be a failed maf table so the car can run on either sd or alpha-n
 

jozsefsz

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#27
Yes @a91what the base table (FN1362) on the 95 is used until the car warms up (it also subtracts table FN1361 startup enrichment values until it's warm - ECT and HEGO's have warmed up).

Once the car is warm, it switches to the FN1360 open loop stabilized table. It will run off of this table until it enters closed loop (fully warm and after a time-delay). A tuner can selectively force open-loop at certain ranges (i.e. disable adaptive learning) which is often done at idle for better driveability. With the MAF disconnected, you'll never enter closed-loop (somewhat obviously).

So... short version of the story is that if the car won't run with the MAF disconnected, and if your problems are at cold idle, then it's doubtful an MAF swap will cure your ills. It should run reasonably with the MAF disconnected if the tune is reasonably close, and if the car is mechanically sound. Stranger things have happened, but I suspect if you datalog the MAF you'll see it's responding properly.

But what would I know, my car looks like a bumblebee. lol happy hunting @RioRed95Cobra.

Edit: When you floor the pedal at startup, that's flood-clear mode (the injectors are cut off). So you're definitely getting way too much fuel, and it's doubtful that's related to the MAF. If you have an AFPR, you can dial down your fuel pressure to see if you can get it anywhere close. If you can, then the tune need some fairly serious adjustment. If you can't, then it's possible one or more injectors is having a problem. I pitched a set of eBay 'green giants' a few years ago because some were stuck closed and some were stuck open. They turned out to actually be Chinese knock-offs of the Bosch injectors, and basically pieces of crap. If they're new I'd suspect them, if you've had them a while that might not be the case.
 
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#28
Well, new maf, same issue. Awesome.

It runs like it's down a cylinder or it's got a huge vac leak, it doesn't.... ugh.
 

a91what

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#29
Likely the plugs are fouled. The tune is off, read my post above and the answer @jozsefsz jozgave me for the info you need to make this happen.
 
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#30
Likely the plugs are fouled. The tune is off, read my post above and the answer @jozsefsz jozgave me for the info you need to make this happen.
I have 3 diff sets of plugs here, NGK, Autolite 3924 and 3923.. I have a spark plug cleaner for my compressor and it works great. Car was powder fouling plugs before, now they're literally wet with fuel.

I've replaced PIP multiple times.. starting to lose my mind.. car ran great, then the trip to the store in the rain and back.. ever since.. nada.

arg.. the tune is by no means perfect, but i've had the car running very good, and ever since that trip, it will not, no matter what we do
 

a91what

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#31
If it is wetting (fouling) the plugs on every cylinder and you can see spark advance with a timing light. Ignition is ruled out. Pip will only send signal back to the ecu for rpm and it's used for tdc recognition.

Next verify fuel pressure. Verify proper injector pulse with noid light.

After that it's all in the tune. I tune these engines (SBF) all the time with standalone ECU and they are about as simple as it gets
 
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#32
I have no timing marks on my balancer, it had a sticker and is now gone. I have tdc marked with chalk, and know "about" where 10* should be.. but still having serious issues.

Fuel pressure is 32 ish and spikes to 39/40 with vac off. Car was running amazing 3x so far, but everytime something else has happened where we had to take :poo: apart and put back together.. none of the things should have changed.. except timing.

Wondering if i'm simply too advanced still, but find that hard to believe.. Injectors should be ok.. taking my rails off and such is a huge pain.. but if this thing doesn't run right soon.. blah
 

jozsefsz

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#33
Fuel pressure is correct, and timing seems reasonably close if you were anywhere near TDC with spout-out and the car would probably keep running long enough to fiddle with it. Still guessing but it's very possibly the tune or the injectors misbehaving. If you wanted to ship over a copy of your tune I could look at it - to see that it's at least set up for the right injectors. On the injectors themselves, a tell-tale sign if they're leaking badly is fuel in the oil as well as a fuel pressure that drops to near zero very quickly after you shut off the car. Once you have it running well enough to stay running, a cylinder balance test can help pinpoint if one of them is hosed without pulling out the rails again.

Again agree with @a91what - if all the plugs are fouled it's probably a tune issue. If you have an AFPR you can dial down the fuel pressure and get it running reasonably or as I mention I'd be willing to look at your tune. If it's just one or two that are badly fouled, they may be stuck open. This will cause the car to run like complete crap, and run so rich as to blow white smoke, as the other injectors get next to no fuel pressure. Barely made it home with my 'green giants' before I trashed them.
 
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#34
Fuel pressure is correct, and timing seems reasonably close if you were anywhere near TDC with spout-out and the car would probably keep running long enough to fiddle with it. Still guessing but it's very possibly the tune or the injectors misbehaving. If you wanted to ship over a copy of your tune I could look at it - to see that it's at least set up for the right injectors. On the injectors themselves, a tell-tale sign if they're leaking badly is fuel in the oil as well as a fuel pressure that drops to near zero very quickly after you shut off the car. Once you have it running well enough to stay running, a cylinder balance test can help pinpoint if one of them is hosed without pulling out the rails again.

Again agree with @a91what - if all the plugs are fouled it's probably a tune issue. If you have an AFPR you can dial down the fuel pressure and get it running reasonably or as I mention I'd be willing to look at your tune. If it's just one or two that are badly fouled, they may be stuck open. This will cause the car to run like complete crap, and run so rich as to blow white smoke, as the other injectors get next to no fuel pressure. Barely made it home with my 'green giants' before I trashed them.
Funniest thing in, it's the opposite. #2 was blank. Like it never fired.. every other plug was wet fouled.

This is AFTER i've had it running correct, readjusted valves, etc.. I got a new 90mm maf, wires, plugs, cap/rotor, and the tune is close.. it's run before..

I took my valve cover in to have a baffle welded inside, as I moved my pcv to driv. side vc.. I also took the upper edelbrock intake in.. I found a miniscule crack.. and it appears as if it may have been sucking air in.. not good.

Shall see on Monday.. guy who does my tuning is Willie at Dirty Dirty Racing in Virginia.. very well known.. so I doubt it's him being that far off. He did my last car and it was spot on after a few of them.. this ran great, now something is up.. coulda just been something simple. Figures.

I do have an adj. fpr, but not willing to touch it as of yet.. i've had it running right.. so i know it's not that.
 
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jozsefsz

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#35
I've also heard their tunes are quite good. Now it is possible that your QH (assuming it's on a Quarterhorse) has lost the tune and it needs to be re-written to it. Mine had done that at one point in the past - I actually replaced it with a chip instead once I had it all running to my satisfaction. If it still thinks you're running stock 19lb injectors after losing the tune, or the QH hardware maybe making a bad connection with the board or having become dislodged, you could also get similar symptoms. All just guesses but free to check.
 
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#36
If the QH wasn't holding the tune it wouldn't show up in the program.. it's for sure not a lack of connection. I found a small crack in corner of upper edelbrock RPM.. having it fixed rn.. coulda been issue? Doubtful, but we shall see.
 
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#37
Car runs. Wasn't MAF.. wasn't computer.. wasn't IATS.. wasn't TPS.. wasn't IAC... guess what it was???? FVCK
 

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