95 GT running bad

3

3greenfords

New Member

Jun 16, 2003

25

0

0

Niceville Florida

Mar 10, 2006

#1

• Mar 10, 2006

• #1

My 95 GT has been running poorly for quite a while, missing, bucking, dying at idle etc. can't drive it at all. I have trouble shot for any shorts in wires and checked everything I can think of. It does not pull any codes. All of this began after jump starting it. It has been a gradual process, getting worse and worse over time. Anybody have any ideas? I'm beginning to lean towards a bad computer since it pulls no codes. I'm convinced it is an electronic ignition issue vice mechanical but how do you check the computer? It is very frustrating and I know it is a simple (but probably expensive) fix.

 

N

Nagash01WS6

New Member

Apr 15, 2003

402

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0

Deland, FL

Mar 10, 2006

#2

• Mar 10, 2006

• #2

Try replacing the ignition module.

Passenger fender on the heat sink.

Mine did the same thing.

 

3

3greenfords

New Member

Jun 16, 2003

25

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0

Niceville Florida

Mar 10, 2006

#3

• Mar 10, 2006

• #3

Is there a way to trouble shoot the ignition module or is it cheap enough to just replace it? Looking on-line I can't find an Ignition module for a 95 5.0L. I have replaced the coil but I gather this is something different.

 

SilverFoxbody

New Member

Apr 7, 2005

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Mar 10, 2006

#4

• Mar 10, 2006

• #4

unplug the o2's....does it run the same? Only then, would I suggest it be the TFI.

 

divit250r

Member

Mar 31, 2005

314

0

16

Columbia City, IN

Mar 10, 2006

#5

• Mar 10, 2006

• #5

You probably already tried this, but have you simply disconnected the battery and let the computer reset itself?

Scott

 

3

3greenfords

New Member

Jun 16, 2003

25

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0

Niceville Florida

Mar 10, 2006

#6

• Mar 10, 2006

• #6

I've tried everything, but I will throw one more bit of info out here. The battery checks good but something is drawing it down and after a couple of days it is dead. Is this related? Probably, but how I have no clue. Someone told me to check the alternator, whcih actually makes sense.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

31,179

33

129

Mar 10, 2006

#7

• Mar 10, 2006

• #7

The puters are supposed to be able to handle a double voltage reverse polarity hook up and live through it.

Here is some info when a puter wont toss its cookies.

Good luck.

 

gcomfx.com

Founding Member

Oct 22, 2002

3,690

0

56

Republic, MO

Mar 10, 2006

#8

• Mar 10, 2006

• #8

HISSIN50 said:

The puters are supposed to be able to handle a double voltage reverse polarity hook up and live through it.

Here is some info when a puter wont toss its cookies.

Good luck.

Click to expand...

Great site... I learned alot.

 

2

215what

New Member

Apr 14, 2005

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NM

Mar 10, 2006

#9

• Mar 10, 2006

• #9

My car did the same thing whem I first got it, come to find out it was the MAF that need'ed to be clean'ed

 

mo_dingo

20+ Year Stangneter

Aug 26, 2003

3,031

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58

Tucson, AZ

Mar 10, 2006

#10

• Mar 10, 2006

• #10

215what said:

My car did the same thing whem I first got it, come to find out it was the MAF that need'ed to be clean'ed

Click to expand...

Yup, start with the basics.....Clean the MAF and IAT first, check plugs/wires/cap/rotor, check main battery connections (chassis grounds as well). Make sure they are making good and solid contact.)

First, does it have problems when the motor is cold, or warm, or both? What about idle, part throttle and wide open throttle?

Any black/white/blue smoke out the tailpipes?

 

3

3greenfords

New Member

Jun 16, 2003

25

0

0

Niceville Florida

Mar 11, 2006

#11

• Mar 11, 2006

• #11

Currently it does it all the time, cold, hot, idle, and worse as the throttle opens. I checked the ignition module and it checks fine. I checked the voltage to the ignition module and the stator, they are fine. I checked line resistance, they are fine. The thing that puzzles me is that this has been a gradual decline over 6 months. What is best for cleaning the MAF and IAT? I cleaned the MAF a couple of months ago with electonics cleaner but with no effect.

Update: Today I checked voltage and resistance on every sensor, all look fine. I unplugged the MAF and started the engine, ran the same just got a check engine light, which tells me the OBD puter is working fine, which puts me at a complete loss for what is causing this. There isn't anything else left to check.

 

zkillrr

Member

Dec 22, 2004

97

0

16

Memphis.Tn

Mar 11, 2006

#12

• Mar 11, 2006

• #12

Have you tried unplugging the o2 sensors, bad
wire that may have a crack in it going to the spark plug and need replacing?

 

3

3greenfords

New Member

Jun 16, 2003

25

0

0

Niceville Florida

Mar 12, 2006

#13

• Mar 12, 2006

• #13

I unplugged the O2 sensor and it ran about the same except it would not idle. I did notice the solenoid is starting to fail. I'm pretty sure that is not related however.

 

mo_dingo

20+ Year Stangneter

Aug 26, 2003

3,031

2

58

Tucson, AZ

Mar 12, 2006

#14

• Mar 12, 2006

• #14

3greenfords said:

Currently it does it all the time, cold, hot, idle, and worse as the throttle opens. I checked the ignition module and it checks fine. I checked the voltage to the ignition module and the stator, they are fine. I checked line resistance, they are fine. The thing that puzzles me is that this has been a gradual decline over 6 months. What is best for cleaning the MAF and IAT? I cleaned the MAF a couple of months ago with electonics cleaner but with no effect.

Update: Today I checked voltage and resistance on every sensor, all look fine. I unplugged the MAF and started the engine, ran the same just got a check engine light, which tells me the OBD puter is working fine, which puts me at a complete loss for what is causing this. There isn't anything else left to check.

Click to expand...

Do a search on cleaning your MAF and IAT. THAT IS YOUR PROBLEM!!! I guarantee it!!! There are many tutorials and I don't want to clog the server with redundant info.
Scott

 

Stang95fyvo

Member

Apr 15, 2005

70

0

6

Vancouver WA

Mar 13, 2006

#15

• Mar 13, 2006

• #15

3greenfords said:

Currently it does it all the time, cold, hot, idle, and worse as the throttle opens. I checked the ignition module and it checks fine. I checked the voltage to the ignition module and the stator, they are fine. I checked line resistance, they are fine. The thing that puzzles me is that this has been a gradual decline over 6 months. What is best for cleaning the MAF and IAT? I cleaned the MAF a couple of months ago with electonics cleaner but with no effect.

Update: Today I checked voltage and resistance on every sensor, all look fine. I unplugged the MAF and started the engine, ran the same just got a check engine light, which tells me the OBD puter is working fine, which puts me at a complete loss for what is causing this. There isn't anything else left to check.

Click to expand...

I went through the same thing last summer although it was only when my car was cold. It turned out that the injectors took a crap on me. Might check that just as a precaution. I replaced and/or checked every sensor and that did nothing, the injectors fixed mine though. Maybe try running some sea foam to see if that helps.

 

3

3greenfords

New Member

Jun 16, 2003

25

0

0

Niceville Florida

Mar 14, 2006

#16

• Mar 14, 2006

• #16

Cleaned the MAF and IAT, no help. Pulled the injectors last week and they looked fine. What would sea foam do for me? I've seen it on this board before but I do not know what it is.

 

3

3greenfords

New Member

Jun 16, 2003

25

0

0

Niceville Florida

Mar 30, 2006

#17

• Mar 30, 2006

• #17

Another update after a couple of weeks. It has been to two different shops, all agree it has a random miss but nobody knows what could be causing it. Ford wanted to charge me $600 for new wires and plugs (yes that is correct) but I told them that I had already tried that route and had little luck in fixing the problem. I did change the plugs again and it acts a bit differently, it only misses when it is hot. When the engine is completely cold it runs and idles great at all RPMs. As it heats up it starts missing around 2000 RPM and the hotter it gets the lower the rpm the miss shows up until when the car is normal operating temp, the miss start around 1250 RPM. Any ideas?

 

SilverFoxbody

New Member

Apr 7, 2005

149

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0

Mar 30, 2006

#18

• Mar 30, 2006

• #18

we found our problem...the maf for dirty as heall and the resitor was broke to boot....ended up being a 3.8L MAF before it was done. Stupid people.

 

3

3greenfords

New Member

Jun 16, 2003

25

0

0

Niceville Florida

Apr 3, 2006

#19

• Apr 3, 2006

• #19

replaced, cap rotor and ignition module to no avail. Ran like a champ until the engine got hot. Only thing left to replace is the computer unless someone has any other ideas?

 

Swarzkopf

Member

Sep 23, 2004

973

0

16

Pittsburgh

Apr 3, 2006

#20

• Apr 3, 2006

• #20

...perhaps this is a mechanical problem and not an electrical one?

Is the car overheating? How does the oil look? Did you test the injectors? How about a compression test? Vacuum test? Fuel pressure test?

I'd test everything I could at this point if I were in your situation...

Quite honestly, I think that you may have engine problems. A broken piston isn't all too uncommon with our cars and would certainly lead to a miss and low power.

My point is, I'd rule out everything else before replacing the computer.