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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

95 GT start issues in a 74 Broncos

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bronco74
  • Start date Start date Apr 10, 2018
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Bronco74

New Member
Apr 10, 2018
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Washingtom State
Apr 10, 2018
#1
  • Apr 10, 2018
  • #1
Hi, I'm new to your forum and hope you can help. Many, many years ago I swapped in a 95 5.0L crate engine for the 302 in my 74 Bronco. The stick shift engine was complete from the oil pan through the intake. It included shorty headers, EGR valve, smog pump and engine harness. After I purchased the engine some Bronco friends suggested I sell the new 5.0 for an older unit, for various reasons, mainly electrical. Determined, I went to some junk yards and pulled a harness from a wrecked 95 Mustang, a MASS air sensor form a 6 cylinder Mustang (numbers matched what I was looking for) and various other parts. I'm not running EGR, either of the secondary air solenoids, the smog pump and it's associated solenoids and charcoal filter. The shorty headers were swapped out for longer headers that would fit the Bronco and the O2 sensors were placed just after the headers. The only thing running off the vacuum tree is the fuel pressure regulator (I went to Hydro-boost from a 96 Mustang).

Sorry for the long lead-in. Hope I got it all. My problem from the start has been starting, especially when hot. I have to pull the SPOUT (I toggle it now) connector to start the engine. It will start every time (SPOUT removed) when cold but once warmed up it's more difficult. Start the Bronco rolling a little, pop the clutch, and it starts every time, hot or cold.

I've tried various things, including, but not limited to, another computer and Ignition Control Module, or TFI. The grounds all seem to be good, less than or equal to 0.3 ohm and voltages all seem to be correct. Fuel pressure is a little low, but not so much to cause a no, or hard start. I took it to a Ford dealer once and they couldn't find anything wrong. I took it to a hot rod shop last week and he found that the PIP and SPOUT signals flat-lined when the SPOUT was left in, but both were present with the SPOUT pulled out. He suggested changing out the computer. Since I have two computers and they both react the same, I have trouble with that conclusion. I also have three black ICMs/TFIs, and they react the same. I read on this site this morning that there is also a gray ICM/TFI (PUSH START VERSION vs COMPUTER CONTROLLED DWELL). This site lead me to that knowledge but so far, I don't know which one I should be running. Any ideas?

Again, sorry for the length. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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polk county florida
Apr 10, 2018
#2
  • Apr 10, 2018
  • #2
Not sure if this will help you, here is a link to the gray/black tfi's
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif
It is a little confusing what wiring harness your using, do you have a data link, the plug for scanner? What computer are you using?
 
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