95 mustang GT ABS Sensor and or Module

Did you try pulling codes with the ABS light? Theres a half million write ups on how to do it. I have codes 61 and 63 and my light sometimes comes on sometimes doesnt but my wheels still didnt lock up in the one emergancy stop I made with the light on.

If you got hit in the front, Im pretty sure the hydraulic control unit is up front. You might want to take a look around, I believe its down low on the passenger side of the radiator. Look for broken wires, cracks, etc. Im surprised how many people come back with stories of bringing vehicles to dealerships and only getting a reply of "no communication with the module." Thats a pretty piss poor answer and whatever tech and / or service manager that let you walk away with that as an answer should be fired. They shouldve found the reason theres no communication and told you what would need to be done to fix it. They give the rest of the good dealerships a bad name.

It is possible for a wire that may be routed along the driverside fenderwell to have gotten broken and overlooked in an accident that hit the driver side. I dont have a wiring diagram handy so I cant tell you one hundred percent if the wiring for it runs on that side. Obviously a likely candidate would be the sensor on the side that got hit. But its not always a guarantee and Id hate to see you spend money on unnecessary parts. Any good dealer would have found the cause for the non communication, fixed it and then pulled the codes or at least found what needed to be fixed in order for the codes to be pulled and then checked to see if you wanted them to proceed. If I ever told my service writer or manager that there was no communication and couldnt figure it out theyd have someone that could figure it out get on it. Not just tell you that and send you on your way. The problem is that a lot of newer techs and even some of the older techs have gotten lazy. With the advent of OBD II, diagnosing got a lot easier. Just hook up the scanner and you can do a ton more now with PIDS, Active Command, etc than you ever could with EEC IV. Try testing the system yourself using the ABS light to flash the codes. All you have to do is go under your hood and find the ABS test connector. Its one the driver side, forward of the shock tower. Youll see a black box labeled power distribution box or something to that affect. Mounted on the front of that box is a little red clip that says anti lock test. Remove it by pushing the black tab down from the red cap and underneath youll find a pyramid shaped connector (black connector with 3 wires). With the ignition off, jumper a small length of wire or a paper clip from circuit 57 (ground) into circuit 836 (diag circuit). The ground circuit is the black wire, the diag circuit is orange with a white tracer. With the wire or clip stuck into those two ports of the connector and left there, go back into the car and turn the ignition on but dont start. THe ABS light will start to flash. Keep note of how many flashes there are, so you might want to have pen and paper handy. A code 63 like my car has will flash 6 times, pause for a second or two then flash 3 times. Then if theres more codes therell be a longer pause, then more flashing. Keep track of all of them, even if you think the codes are repeating. Once you have the codes, then we can try and figure out the problem. I have the list of all possible codes the system can output and the accompanying pinpoint tests so let me know what the codes are and hopefully well get you some answers.

I just popped the hood on my car. Same year as yours. In any case I followed the wiring harness that leaves the HCU and right above the unit it Ts off in both directions. It goes over the top of the radiator and underneath the battery tray on the drivers side so theres a very good possibility that a wire in that harness got pinched or broken. My car was previously hit in drivers side and my codes 61 and 63 are for power supply interruptions to the HCU. ANd like I said its intermittent so Im a very good candidate for a partially broken wire that sometimes makes contact and shuts the light off. I wouldnt be surprised if you have a very similar problem. I just dont have the motivation to rip the wiring harnesses apart and find it after I spend 8 hours doing it on everyone elses car at work.

34 =Left rear anti-lock brake sensor continuity fault . So looks to be a problem with the drivers rear sensor. Probably a brake in the wire if its a continuity problem. Let me know if you have a multimeter and I can tell you what the resistances should be buit Id say replacing the rear sensor would be a likely fix. Youll have to check out the rear tone ring too for any cracks. I guarantee what the tech did at the dealership you brought it to was try to use the OBD II test port thats under the dash, not even realizing that the car isnt a 96 and the plug is non functional. Doesnt speak very highly of that place...

No, the light will remain on after its done spitting out the codes. The only codes that start with 3 are 33 (left front sensor continuity) and 34 (left rear sensor continuity). Then it goes to the forties for the right side. So the problem lies within the left rear sensor and / or wiring for the sensor.
As far as the tech that tried to hook in under the dash.. well hes a retard.. the eec test connector for these cars is under the hood and you need a super star tester, or NGS. Was it a younger tech by any chance? People like that are why a lot of people shy away from dealer service. Im only 25, only been in the business 3 years but even I know how to test the older cars.

Also, just to clarify, I mean driver side when I say left. Some people assume left of the vehicle as if theyre standing in front of it looking at the car. Left and right are always from the point of view as if you were sitting in the driver seat. Im sure you knew that but some people dont and Ive seen people replace things on the wrong side after they were told the left and then replaced a passenger side component.

Actually I made a mistake in reading the codes as far as the 30 series and 40 series. Heres the entire list of possible codes. 34 is still for the LR sensor continuity but I thought the 30 series codes were for left side and 40 series codes were for right.
12 System OK No faults noted. Go to Pinpoint Test D.
19 Anti-lock control module Go to Pinpoint Test D.
22 Right front valve Go to Pinpoint Test A1.
24 Left front valve Go to Pinpoint Test A2.
26 Rear ABS valve Go to Pinpoint Test A3.
31 Right front anti-lock brake sensor continuity fault Go to Pinpoint Test B1.
32 Right rear anti-lock brake sensor continuity fault Go to Pinpoint Test B4.
33 Left front anti-lock brake sensor continuity fault Go to Pinpoint Test B7.
34 Left rear anti-lock brake sensor continuity fault Go to Pinpoint Test B10.
41 Right front anti-lock brake sensor Go to Pinpoint Test C1.
42 Right rear anti-lock brake sensor Go to Pinpoint Test C3.
43 Left front anti-lock brake sensor Go to Pinpoint Test C5.
44 Left rear anti-lock brake sensor Go to Pinpoint Test C7.
61 Pump motor/pump motor relay fault Go to Pinpoint Test D.
63 Voltage supply interruption Go to Pinpoint Test D.
69 Vehicle battery voltage less than 10 volts Go to Pinpoint Test D.
78 Anti-lock brake sensor frequency fault

ANd heres the pinpoint test for the code you have

B10 DTC 34: CHECK LEFT REAR BRAKE ANTI-LOCK SENSOR
Disconnect 16-pin connector on jumper from ABS assembly to wire harness.
Measure resistance between Pins 1 and 6 on wire harness side connector.
Is resistance between 2187 and 2673 ohms?
Yes
GO to B12 .

No
GO to B11 .


B11 CHECK LEFT REAR BRAKE ANTI-LOCK SENSOR
Disconnect left rear rear brake anti-lock sensor from wire harness.
Measure resistance between Pins 1 and 2 on sensor connector.




Is resistance between 2187 and 2673 ohms?
Yes
SERVICE or REPLACE cable harness Circuit 496 or 499.

No
REPLACE left rear brake anti-lock sensor .


B12 CHECK CIRCUITS 499 (GY/BK) AND 496 (O) AT JUMPER HARNESS
Disconnect jumper harness from anti-lock brake control module .
Check for broken or damaged wire in jumper between Pin 1 (16-pin side) and Pin 13 (15-pin side) or between Pin 6 (16-pin side) and Pin 5 (15-pin side).
Are both wires OK?
Yes
If light is on all the time, REPLACE anti-lock brake control module .

No
SERVICE or REPLACE broken or damaged wire in jumper.