95 mustang gt Running kinda need help

Forbidance

New Member
Apr 30, 2018
19
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Stanly County
Just got the 95 mustang running found out my firing order isn't the HO but the no-HO Firing order , anyways got the timing set to 10 deg and went to check my codes now I know I have EGR codes cause last owner Botched the EGR Stuff so I put a EGR Plate on and the Exhaust plugs in Heads. But I got 2 codes one is a ,10 - Cylinder #1 Failed Cylinder Balance Test The other is a, 212 - Loss of IDM (Ignition Diagnostic Monitor) input to EEC or SPOUT circuit grounded. I have checked compression in cyl. 1 and its good,also i moved spark plug and wire to another cyl. to see if code changed to that cyl. and it didn't, I also checked for 12v on injector and Pulse also i heard the injector ticking like it should. So im confused as to what is causing this, I havent really worried about the 212 code yet. Any Ideas?
 
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I also want to note that I am unsure of the motor thats in it because the firing order is for a non HO. m guessing someone replaced the factory HO with this older NON HO, and i do not know if they replaced the ECU or not. Im going to get the code off the ECU and see if i can get info on that ECU.
 
Cylinder balance test can fail due to compression differences (which you've checked), spark differences, valve / camshaft differences, or most likely fuel injector differences. It may be clicking but may be partially clogged or worn. Most of the time this isn't a big deal for driveability. A way to validate if you're getting decent performance from that cylinder is to use a laser-thermometer on the exhaust headers while running and see if that one's cooler or not.

The code 212 (spout missing or PIP in the distributor totally fragged) is a bigger deal - without that spark will not advance and the car will run like a dog. It can also invalidate / aggravate a cylinder balance problem. You'll want to deal with that first.
 
This is helpful. http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/ignition-control-module-tests-3
Usually it's more trouble than it's worth though - if your car has some miles, the bushings in the distributor are probably worn anyways.
Replacements aren't very expensive typically - though folks often report rebuilts having bad PIPs out of the gate (they often don't change it).
Best bet is something new - the Richporter distros seem to be well-thought-of.

JRichker's 'no start' diagnosis checklist has helpful advice too.