96 3.8 No Start, Head Scratcher

Hello Hello,
I have been working with a friend of mine to solve a no start condition on his 96 stang 3.8L that suddenly shut off while driving. Using a PC based Scan tool as well as multiple OTC scan tools (verified on multiple other cars< BMW, VW, HONDA, SUBI, other FORDs, and Chevy), the stang shows no codes, no "Theft" light, inertia switch isn't tripped, Full battery at 12.6v, and after using a spark tester it shows no spark.
We replaced the PCM, the Ignition coil pack, Checked all fuses only the radio fuse was blown but was know about, and crank position sensor. We thought for sure the crank position sensor was at fault as it had been worn into a "D" shape from the harmonic balancer being in contact with it. once we began checking the sensor we read a voltage change from only .1 v up to .438 volts AC and yes the DVOM is set to the right range.... As it never reach 1 v we thought we had it. We cant seem to install the new Crank position sensor in the correct orientation due to it contacting the harmonic balancer. For giggles we decided to give it a try anyways and still no spark.

Im by no means a Beginner in the automotive world but were lost on this one.

The only thing we havent checked for is opens between the sensors and the PCM. since we have no Codes even after trying to make it CEL by disconnecting the Idle Air Control Valve and the MAF then attempting to start again. The only item we haven't touched is the cam position sensor. Is there something were missing? Anyone ever even had this problem?

Also wanted to add, Grounds have been checked and found to be good.

@ JacktheRiper
the balancer appears to be .10 in. too close to the engine. Is there a spacer that normally goes between the balancer and the engine? I have a feeling that if there were a spacer, it was put between the balancer and pulley. Since the pulley is still aligned with the the rest and there isn't any internal damage evident from the oil change or externally. in fact she cranks over like butter. Also We have found that although the Crank position sensor was showing the break of magnetic field, it was still below spec. so we purchased another (about $25) and compared resistence by probing the sensor side and found the old CKP to be open and the new CKP to have around 500 m Ohms. So we think its pretty safe to say the CKP was bad.

We will be buzzing the bolt out tomorrow to pull the balancer and investigate why its sitting further to the rear than it is supposed to hopefully its something as simple as a misplaced spacer.