Resolved 1985 3.8 tbi, Only starts with fluid then runs great

1985 3.8 conv...new tank, pump, filter, relay 2 weeks ago (just because) throttle position sensor last night (108k miles and needed it), cranks great but wont start unless small shot of starting fluid is used, then runs great, till I turn the key off.
I replaced the TP sensor it started right up, ran great, started and turned it off several times, let it run till warm, let it sit overnight. Now only starts with fluid.
Great throttle response, good pressure at the schrader valve, good power to the (2) tbi injectors
The reason I used the fluid is because it seemed like spark, but has plenty (new coil 2,036 mi ago) as regular maintenance. 5,115 mi on new distributor.
Y'all had any problems like this, or have any suggestions on the issue.
Thank You in advance
 
Ok will do codes, , be good to buy a code reader anyway..thanks. I dont believe its spraying while cranking, but will look sprays great when running ..
When I changed The TP sensor, of course the idle changed, was idling at 600 /300 in gear brake on, now idling at 1200, I think 700 in gear brake on. I'm thinking I should put a light to it, & time it before I check the codes
 
Thank you Noobz347 and Groverdill,
Here is the outcome; while waiting for the code reader to arrive. I checked the pressure while cranking (25)&(29) seemed to me a little low...looked while cranking Nothing coming out of the injectors that I could see...I put fluid In started and timed the car, turned it off,, but for some stupid reason, got Sidetracked & did not try to restart it.
So I decided to change the 29 psi fuel pressure regulator it had about 26k mi on it, and I had a new one put away.
When I felt around to find the 3 screws under the back of the TB, I found the metal vacuum tube that runs over to the PCV had slipped out of the TBI from taking the fuel lines loose to replace the TPS
Now, I should have put the metal vacuum line back in place., And tried to start the car. But No; I aint that smart.
I put the FPR in, put the metal vac line back in...
It fired right up, no crank at all. Just touched the key...then put a new MAP Sensor .
problem is, with My goofiness, not trying to start it at every turn.. Now I dont know if it was the timing, the vacuum a combo of both, or the new FPR.
I will write the ECT trick down in my maintenance log, for future reference.
Long post, sorry bout that. Short history on car, bought it in Florida for moms birthday in 93, with 32k miles for $2200
Took it to Mom in Vegas, air conditioned garage. She put different wheels on it. I got it back 3 years ago, Texas has not been kind to 40 yr old paint. Still has original top, and interior is very nice shape, she sees lots of dirt road on the ranches, as you can see by the mud.
Anyway, she's all packed, her and I are leaving, for the Northern AZ ranch at
3:00 am , the 95 bronco, and 96 eddie 150, are waiting for us. Gotta love those 4.9's
Thanks Again. Very nice to find StangNet
 

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Well cool.... At least you cam back to tell the story.


I'll mark the thread as resolved and it should at least, help others to look over the things that you have done.

Now that you're here... You should start a [Progress Thread] for your car, complete with some good pics! :rock:

So, the next time you have an issue, you can come back to that thread and tell us about it.

Don't forget to list mods!
 
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Ok guys, I will go into the problem I had after getting to AZ. After this,, We thought the starting problem was solved. It was NOT AND GOT WAY WORSE.
Ok General karthief
I did not take pictures or document much except fuel milage, I had myself and about 800 lbs of tools and gear. Left From McCoy Texas (Pleasanton) topped off in elmandorf from there to Junction Tx, thru the hill country was my worst milage 132 miles with 2 gal remaining, best was from Fort Sumner NM to west side of as Albuquerque 175 mi 1.5 gal remaining . Stopped 6 times for gas
Total miles 968 left from Texas 11:15 am arrived AZ 1:00 am. 2 hr time change...Avg mph 70+ --. Never slowed on hills, no noticable oil usage. And no problems. Historically I get 200 mi to a tank .
108,873 miles when I left the Ranch in mcCoy TX. This car has made this trip to and from 7 times in 4 years. With no more than a flat.
NOW FOR WHAT HAPPENED TWO DAYS LATER, THIS GOES BACK TO THE ORIGINAL REASON FOR THIS THREAD. ONLY STARTS WITH FLUID. WHICH WE THOUGHT WAS SOLVED. IT WAS NOT...
I will see if I can jump back up to the resolved thread
Well cool.... At least you cam back to tell the story.


I'll mark the thread as resolved and it should at least, help others to look over the things that you have done.

Now that you're here... You should start a [Progress Thread] for your car, complete with some good pics! :rock:

So, the next time you have an issue, you can come back to that thread and tell us about it.

Don't forget to list mods!
 
Check the things that you checked before. Make sure that nothing has become disconnected.

Verify Fuel.
Verify Spark.
Pull Codes.

I am beginning to think about a distributor rebuild (do not replace it).
I am also thinking about the weird Ignition box that 85s (Dura-Spark) had but that may only have been for carb'd cars (which takes me back to the distributor).
 
Ok, So As I said trip was great, But. When I got in my ranch, I turned on the brights, alot of Mule deer and Elk, better to see them than not. 5 minutes later the headlights started flashing I had to drive with low beams.
The next day it started the not starting without a shot of fluid. I ran into town. 28 mi, Had to use fluid to start again even warmed up.
Once started ran great.
The next day I had to go to Gallup NM. 75 mi for groceries, I didnt want to unload the water tank from the truck. So drove the mustang, it ran great to gallup.
When I stopped, as I walked past the front end
I thought I smelled the battery off gassing, but didnt think much more about it, when I came out it started without starting fluid, and I got on the road back home. 12 miles from gallup I noticed the amp gauge was above normal . temp gauge was in normal but at 3/4 where it is usually right in the middle.
I pulled off, turned it off, open the hood, I smelled the battery again, coolant was good.
I had cleaned the terminals before the trip from Texas, BUT THE POSITIVE SIDE HAD CORROSION AGAIN
now thinking back, I Did Not List That In My Original Post. But the + was unusually corroded, but not effecting the cranking, at that time.
WHEN I WENT TO START IT, THE STARTER STUCK AND KEPT CRANKING EVEN WITH THE KEY OFF, with no wrench
All I could do was grab the NEG and start pulling back and forth till I ripped the wires loose from the brass cable end attached to the post.
By that time there was alot of smoke coming from starter cable, positive battery cable, and the right side fender around the solenoid, and voltage regulator. With pliers
I repaired the neg cable as best I could, touched the cable to the post, never saw that much sparks ever from a battery, the starter was still stuck,, I FIGURED STUCK SOLENOID from to much voltage
AND GAVE IT HIT WITH THE PLIERS AND TRIED THE CABLE AGAIN, STARTER STILL ON, HIT IT AGAIN REAL HARD SEVERAL TIMES,
That did the trick, starter was off, I let the electrical cool down about an hour
It would turn over, and try to start with fluid but no fuel at the schrader valve.
AAA 60 MILES
TRIED TO RUN CODES, NO CODES, NO CLICKING JUST three 000s nothing else
I replaced the voltage regulator, solenoid, battery cables
I checked EVERY fusible link, ALL GOOD.
I BELIEVE ITS TIME FOR A NEW ECM/ECU,
If it were good, I think it would give me some kind of code,
Am I wrong ?
Or Is there something Im missing ?

What I Have learned is, I believe that when a voltage regulator is going bad, it can put out enough voltage to crank the engine, but not enough to power other components at the same time as cranking,
I believe that is why the car would start on fluid.... once the cranking was done
The faulty voltage regulator was able to give the ECU power for fuel pump etc.
With the amount of voltage needed for the starter, a bad regulator cant give the ECU the amps to send power where needed , thats what I believe . I am no expert. I could be wrong but.
I think my whole problem, had to do with the volt reg, now it over amped and fried my ECU
Any thoughts from someone that understands auto electric would be helpful. SORRY about my long post
THANK YOU
 
An opinion.
You have more than one issue, careful not to over think this.
First change that battery, the continued corrosion on one post and the acid (degassing) smell are related, battery is broken at the post where the corrosion reappears, and/or the alternator is overcharging.
You need to check the ignition switch under the dash, not the key cylinder, the electronic component, they are a known failure point.
Send the computer off to get checked out, it's old like me and prolly needs some updating.
 
Remove the alternator and regulator, have them tested, and repalace as necessary. I would also say you need to replace the starter solenoid. You need to voltage drop test all your cables (batt to ground, batt to solenoid, and solenoid to starter).
 
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