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98GT Convertible, top closes ~90% and stops moving

  • Thread starter Thread starter lparsons42
  • Start date Start date Nov 4, 2023
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lparsons42

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#1
  • Nov 4, 2023
  • #1
I had this problem earlier this season and didn't worry about it as I don't drive this car this much. Today I remembered it when I went to put it away for the season; if I hold the button down to close the roof the roof only closes ~90% of the way and then stops moving. I tried pulling on it a bit and didn't get close enough to latch it shut. The gap is around 3-5 inches between the frame and the convertible top. I tried cycling it all the way back and then forward again, and it did the same thing. What should I examine next year to try to get it to close correctly?
 

Noobz347

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#2
  • Nov 4, 2023
  • #2
Gain access to the hydraulic pump. It's probably low on fluid. Look in your service manual if you still have it.
 
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Mustang5L5

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#3
  • Nov 6, 2023
  • #3
Hydraulic pump liely low on fluid. Needs to be topped off. You'll have to remove the rear seat to access it.

While you are there, look for leaks. The lift cylinders are a typical source for a slow leak around the piston seals
 
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lparsons42

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#4
  • Jul 12, 2025
  • #4
Last night I finally pulled out the seats and replaced the hydraulic pump (as silly expensive as the pump is). I've cycled it through several times and added fluid, but I'm at the same situation I was at before with a new pump. The roof closes >90% of the way, and just stops. I can't muscle it forward, it's just stalled there. I cycled the pump and added fluid each time but still can't get the roof to close enough to latch it.

What do I need to check next? It took quite a bit of ATF once I had the new pump in there. It used to work fine until a couple seasons ago when it started stalling out just a few inches short of closed (or close-able).
 

Noobz347

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Grab a spray can of [Silicon Lubricant] and give each hinge, actuator, and attach point a good squirt.

While you're in there, look for anything that is bent or detached.

Is it [still] taking fluid when you run it back and forth? I mean. can you tell if it is losing any after the parts that you've swapped?

I have heard tell that the cylinders themselves can leak [internally] (just like a brake master cylinder can). That last 90% is the hard part. What do replacement cylinders go for in a 98?
 
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lparsons42

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#6
  • Jul 12, 2025
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Noobz347 said:
Grab a spray can of [Silicon Lubricant] and give each hinge, actuator, and attach point a good squirt.
Click to expand...

I'll give that a try and see what happens. Where else do I find actuators? I presume I can trace out the hydraulic lines to find them.

Noobz347 said:
While you're in there, look for anything that is bent or detached.

Is it [still] taking fluid when you run it back and forth? I mean. can you tell if it is losing any after the parts that you've swapped?
Click to expand...

The last time I pulled the rubber seal out - after going as far in each direction as it will go - I did not see any sign of it having lost any fluid. I tried to put more in, and it just spilled out (as the cylinder mounts horizontally and the port is facing out horizontally).

Noobz347 said:
I have heard tell that the cylinders themselves can leak [internally] (just like a brake master cylinder can). That last 90% is the hard part. What do replacement cylinders go for in a 98?
Click to expand...

The common going rate is ~$300 for the hydraulic motor. I found one that was quite a bit less expensive. It was a direct bolt-in replacement that works ... just as well as the previous.
 

Noobz347

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#7
  • Jul 12, 2025
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lparsons42 said:
The common going rate is ~$300 for the hydraulic motor. I found one that was quite a bit less expensive. It was a direct bolt-in replacement that works ... just as well as the previous.
Click to expand...

The actuators: https://lmr.com/item/LRS-50600E/Mustang-Hydraulic-Cylinder-for-Convertible-Top-94-98
 

Bullitt347

I have been doing it wrong this whole time
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#8
  • Jul 12, 2025
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If the top has been in the down (open) position for a long time, you may just be fighting the fabric of the top having "shrunk".
Put it up (closed) as far as it will go and park it out in the sun for a few hours. You will probably find that it will now close all the way.
 
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lparsons42

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#9
  • Aug 10, 2025
  • #9
Bullitt347 said:
If the top has been in the down (open) position for a long time, you may just be fighting the fabric of the top having "shrunk".
Put it up (closed) as far as it will go and park it out in the sun for a few hours. You will probably find that it will now close all the way.
Click to expand...
That does seem to have been the case! I've never owned a convertible before and hadn't considered that the ragtop could shrink - I tend to leave the top down the vast majority of the time. This time I'll have to remember to close it well before it's time to put it away so I can have it closed while in winter storage.

Thank you!
 
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Noobz347

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#10
  • Aug 10, 2025
  • #10
lparsons42 said:
That does seem to have been the case! I've never owned a convertible before and hadn't considered that the ragtop could shrink - I tend to leave the top down the vast majority of the time. This time I'll have to remember to close it well before it's time to put it away so I can have it closed while in winter storage.

Thank you!
Click to expand...


I [think] that best practice is to park/store the car with the top up (to make the thing last).

Somebody please correct me if this is wrong.
 
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