A Better Pic Of The ReInforcement/C/O/Plate

SCHOONER · Jul 3, 2007

http://http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa269/SCHOONER66/InnerRockerReInforcementPanCrossMem.jpg

I don't know if this pic shows up twice if it does please excuse my un-experience.

Here (above) is a better pic of just what I'm facing as far as re-connecting the CrossOver Plate.

Any suggestions guys ~ HELP

thanks again guys

GOD BLESS

Schooner

mustangman1974 · Jul 4, 2007

SCHOONER said:
http://http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa269/SCHOONER66/InnerRockerReInforcementPanCrossMem.jpg

I don't know if this pic shows up twice if it does please excuse my un-experience.

Here (above) is a better pic of just what I'm facing as far as re-connecting the CrossOver Plate.

Any suggestions guys ~ HELP

thanks again guys

GOD BLESS

Schooner

drop the first http:// and the link will work

reenmachine · Jul 4, 2007

So how are you actually fastening it in????

If you found some way to get temporary access to put a nut on the back, it will be impossible to remove once everything is back together!

This should have been a continuation of your other thread so everyone would know your situation.

SCHOONER · Jul 9, 2007

reenmachine said:
So how are you actually fastening it in????

If you found some way to get temporary access to put a nut on the back, it will be impossible to remove once everything is back together!

This should have been a continuation of your other thread so everyone would know your situation.

Hi Reemachine

What I had to do was cut-away the top of the raiser seat pan. Then I find a rusty damage Baffle Plate sandwiched in between. I cut that out and found the broken bolts and nuts there.

I cleaned-up the pan area. I will weld a large washer and nut to cover the openning inside where the ol' bolt & nut are and mig weld 'em in place.
Now when I close-up the upper raiser pan and do under my car to re-attach the center plate I'll have the nut I welded in place to attach the plate 2.

That's the only way I could have and will do it.

Thanks
GOD BLESS

Schooner

mr-fixit · Jul 9, 2007

That "rusty damage Baffle Plate" as you call it, is actually part of the main floor. Think about it, if you remove the top seat platform, this part of the floor is directly underneath, it extends from the part of the front floor that you put your feet on. From under the car, if you removed the lower convertible seat boxes, you would see this "baffle". And that section is exposed on coupes and fastbacks. If you have the top seat platform removed, I would suggest replacing the floor pan in one piece, or at least full lenght pans on each side.

SCHOONER · Jul 10, 2007

Hey Mr-Fixit " Thank YOU "

mr-fixit said:
That "rusty damage Baffle Plate" as you call it, is actually part of the main floor. Think about it, if you remove the top seat platform, this part of the floor is directly underneath, it extends from the part of the front floor that you put your feet on. From under the car, if you removed the lower convertible seat boxes, you would see this "baffle". And that section is exposed on coupes and fastbacks. If you have the top seat platform removed, I would suggest replacing the floor pan in one piece, or at least full lenght pans on each side.

Hi Mr-Fixit

The Baffle is not the problem. I cut that out (damaged & rusty) and I have no need to replace it. The top & bottom of the seat pan is in good shape.
I finally figured-out what bolts/washers & nuts I'm using to re-attached the crossover plate.

As far as the missing Baffle. I'm going to stuff the areas with good insulaton to keep the car floor from catching too much HEAT. Being that I live in an OVEN in July and August here in good ol' Las Veagas. Whew! man the heat that comes up from the pavement on the strip and especially when you got a RED light and your in back of a BUS that's giving off HOT EXHAUST ~ WHEW ! ! ! HOT ! ! !

That floor pan insulationa and Dyamat on top of the floor pans in the car should keep the HEAT down much better.

O.K. guys Thank You for your imput.
GOD BLESS

Schooner

QUOTE-_________________________________________
The more i Surrender the more i Win

reenmachine · Jul 10, 2007

SCHOONER said:
Hi Mr-Fixit

The Baffle is not the problem. I cut that out (damaged & rusty) and I have no need to replace it. The top & bottom of the seat pan is in good shape.
I finally figured-out what bolts/washers & nuts I'm using to re-attached the crossover plate.

As far as the missing Baffle. I'm going to stuff the areas with good insulaton to keep the car floor from catching too much HEAT. Being that I live in an OVEN in July and August here in good ol' Las Veagas. Whew! man the heat that comes up from the pavement on the strip and especially when you got a RED light and your in back of a BUS that's giving off HOT EXHAUST ~ WHEW ! ! ! HOT ! ! !

That floor pan insulationa and Dyamat on top of the floor pans in the car should keep the HEAT down much better.

Dude, that "baffle" isn't a baffle -- it's part of the floor of your car. In a Mustang, the floors are a part of the load-bearing structure of the car. If you want to do this work right and actually increase both the structural integrity and value of the car you need to remove the seat perches and fix your floors properly. I fear that this is going to turn out to be one of those Mustangs with big obvious weld seams and all kinds of surprises for a future owner. I don't mean to sound harsh, but it's not any more difficult to take your time and learn how to do it the right way, and everyone will be much better off in the long run.

SCHOONER · Jul 11, 2007

reenmachine said:
Dude, that "baffle" isn't a baffle -- it's part of the floor of your car. In a Mustang, the floors are a part of the load-bearing structure of the car. If you want to do this work right and actually increase both the structural integrity and value of the car you need to remove the seat perches and fix your floors properly. I fear that this is going to turn out to be one of those Mustangs with big obvious weld seams and all kinds of surprises for a future owner. I don't mean to sound harsh, but it's not any more difficult to take your time and learn how to do it the right way, and everyone will be much better off in the long run.

Hey Reenmachine

What do you mean by: SEAT PERCHES ?

Is that the four brackets type pieces that where welded to the so-called Baffles on both sides of the reinforcement pans ?

I also found when I opened-up the seat pan under the (Baffles) don't know what else to called 'em) I found insulation type stuff like asbostose for the heat I guess.

P.S. There's NOTING MORE i would like is to do the job correctly and safely

I wait your repley my man.

GOD BLESS

Schooner

reenmachine · Jul 11, 2007

The seat perches are the metal platforms that the seats bolt directly to. They sit on top of the floor pans, and the surface the seats bolt to angles downwards from front to rear. In a convertible they are one big piece that curves up over the transmission tunnel and end at each inner rocker rail. I think it's what you call the top seat pan. There are publications out there that show how all of this fits together.

SCHOONER · Jul 11, 2007

reenmachine said:
The seat perches are the metal platforms that the seats bolt directly to. They sit on top of the floor pans, and the surface the seats bolt to angles downwards from front to rear. In a convertible they are one big piece that curves up over the transmission tunnel and end at each inner rocker rail. I think it's what you call the top seat pan. There are publications out there that show how all of this fits together.

Hey Reemachine

Oh! I see what you mean now (thanks to you) about the Perch is the one piece on my convertible that is first attached to the inner rocker panel becomes the raiser seat pan and then rides over the tranny tunnel and becoming again the raiser seat pan on the drives side and connects to the inner rocker panel on the drivers side. All this is ONE PIECE.

On my convert. I have some good metal and didn't want to install a whole full floor pan. I also wanted to get to those Broken Bolts that were holding the CrossOver Plate that connects too both reinforcement pans under my car.

I had no other way but to cut into the raiser seat pan to get at those damn nut/fastners. And of course what I found what that second pan that was rusty/damage and will be replaced. That area will be filled with insulation.

Thats is my good man.

P.S. at the present time I've been creating special fastners from the Cross Over Plate. I'll be using 1 1/2in. washers to cover the halfmoon holes in the reinforcenment pans. I'm using carriage bolts and sqaring the round holes in the washers to accept the carriage bolts.
I will mig weld the washers to the body of the pan and weld the carriage bolts to the washers. All these fastners are in the inside of the pan.

The carriage bolts will be hanging down under the car welded in. The CrossOver Plate will be installed on to the bolts and washers and nuts will be applied.

I know thats a lot of work but I counldn't think of any other way to do it. This proceedure will allow me to un-screw the nuts and the bolts will not turn on me.
They will be welded in, in cage I have to remove the plate in the future.

Thanks my man
GOD BLESS

Schooner

reenmachine · Jul 12, 2007

I'd suggest not using the carriage bolts. They're usually low grade and thus won't be very strong. Your washer reinforcement idea is fine. Weld those in and then weld good nuts on top. That way the cross over plate will bolt in just like original and it won't look funny from underneath with carriage bolts hanging down.

SCHOONER · Jul 13, 2007

reenmachine said:
I'd suggest not using the carriage bolts. They're usually low grade and thus won't be very strong. Your washer reinforcement idea is fine. Weld those in and then weld good nuts on top. That way the cross over plate will bolt in just like original and it won't look funny from underneath with carriage bolts hanging down.

Hi Reenmachine

The carriage bolts will be welded on the inside the pan. The Lock nuts with washers will be on the outside of the car against the crossover plate.

The crossover plate isn't that heavy the carriage bolts are 3/8's.
I squared the round hole in the washers so they would fit nicely on the square of the carriage bolts.

I'm pretty sure it will be O.K.

Thanks for your imput.
GOD BLESS

Schooner

Platonic Solid · Jul 13, 2007

SCHOONER said:
The carriage bolts will be welded on the inside the pan. The Lock nuts with washers will be on the outside of the car against the crossover plate.

The crossover plate isn't that heavy the carriage bolts are 3/8's.
I squared the round hole in the washers so they would fit nicely on the square of the carriage bolts.

I'm pretty sure it will be O.K.

It's not a matter of how heavy the plate is. It's the shear stress that the plate will be subjecting the bolts to that matters. The purpose of the "reinforcement plate" is to "reinforce". What is the grade and torq spec on the original bolts?

SCHOONER · Jul 13, 2007

Platonic Solid said:
It's not a matter of how heavy the plate is. It's the shear stress that the plate will be subjecting the bolts to that matters. The purpose of the "reinforcement plate" is to "reinforce". What is the grade and torq spec on the original bolts?

Hey Brother

You know what " THANKS FOR THE HEADUPS " You are RIGHT.
If I'm going thru all this trouble to do it right.

Why in the world would I NOT put in GRADE 8 BOLTS DUH

I on a search right now to find where in Vegas I can buy the Grade 8 bolts.
What about the washer and nuts.
What do you suggest bro. ?

Thanks for straightening me out
GOD BLESS

Schooner

dennis112 · Jul 13, 2007

Any decent hardware store will stock grade 8 bolts and nuts, normally in little compartmentalized boxes near the grade 5 stuff. They won't be cheap though so bring $10 or so with you.

Platonic Solid · Jul 13, 2007

In the absense of any real data here, I would buy the 6 bolt set offered by various Mustang retailers; check the bolt grade against the chart (here's one) then purchase equal or stronger grade nuts. (Generally, if a bolt and nut assembly fails, you want the stud/bolt to break rather than stripping the nut) But then again, I would also put the nuts on the inside as originally designed.

truck90278 · Jul 13, 2007

SCHOONER said:
Hey Brother

You know what " THANKS FOR THE HEADUPS " You are RIGHT.
If I'm going thru all this trouble to do it right.

Why in the world would I NOT put in GRADE 8 BOLTS DUH

I on a search right now to find where in Vegas I can buy the Grade 8 bolts.
What about the washer and nuts.
What do you suggest bro. ?

Thanks for straightening me out
GOD BLESS

Schooner

Most all good hardware stores carry grade 8 hardware, including Home Depot, Lowes, etc.

SCHOONER · Jul 14, 2007

dennis112 said:
Any decent hardware store will stock grade 8 bolts and nuts, normally in little compartmentalized boxes near the grade 5 stuff. They won't be cheap though so bring $10 or so with you.

Hey Dennis112

Well today I got my butt to the hardware store and bought those tuff/hard GRADE 8 Bolts/Nuts & Washers.

I gota practice on my mig welding before I weld 'em into place and then set the Crossover Plate into position and continue to take-out the rest of the Inner Rocker Panel.

Oh I forgot I bought a nylon 2" strap and racker and wil further brace my convert. for SPREADING any further. Better safe than WIDER . . . LOL

THANKS GUYS FOR ALL YOUR HELPING IMPUT
GOD BLESS YOU ALL

Schooner

A Better Pic Of The ReInforcement/C/O/Plate

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