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  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

a/c clutch removal help

  • Thread starter Thread starter bigsheldy
  • Start date Start date Sep 22, 2008

bigsheldy

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Sep 22, 2008
#1
  • Sep 22, 2008
  • #1
I'm putting a new a/c clutch on my 96 GT and I'm having some problems. I read some of the writeups on here but I can't figure it out. I removed the front plate (which had sheared apart when the clutch went) and I don't know what to do next. I have an a/c clutch puller I rented from autozone but I can't figure out how to use it. Do I have to remove the snap ring first? I'm lost...

edit: Does anyone know what the belt size is for these motors without the a/c compressor? Would I be able to run a shorter belt without going to the a/c or is that not possible on these?
 
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birdman941

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birdman941

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bigsheldy

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#4
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How do I take the actual clutch off? Do I not even need to use the clutch puller?
 
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birdman941

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COramprat

...I can take it. I think.
20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 2, 2003
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Sea of Tranquility
Sep 23, 2008
#6
  • Sep 23, 2008
  • #6
http://forums.stangnet.com/614300-replacing-ac-compressor-clutch.html

Yes you will need a puller. No amount of wiggleing was able to budge mine. Craftsman at Sears was about 25 bucks.
 

Skud

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#7
  • Sep 23, 2008
  • #7
I did mine without a puller.. It was the stock 60,000 mile unit and it took a little bit of force to get it off, but it came off..

- Remove the 10mm (might be 8mm) bolt and pull off the clutch, watch for the little spacer behind
- Remove the snap ring around the shaft that's holding the pulley on
- Pull off the old pulley

Install is reverse..

If you're tightening the bolt back up and the clutch is engaging the pulley then you forgot the spacer or if you're doing the 8rib swap you may need another spacer.

I suppose a puller would make it easier, BUT MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE THE SNAP RING BEFORE YOU START PULLING!!!!


Riley
 

bigsheldy

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#8
  • Sep 23, 2008
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Thanks guys...I'll be attempting it once again in a few hours. Hopefully my next post is full of excitement about getting this done haha.
 

bigsheldy

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#9
  • Sep 23, 2008
  • #9
I got the clutch and snap ring off but the pulley is stuck...I tried spraying pb blaster on there and tapping it and prying it but no luck. I have a clutch puller but I can't get it to work right. Any tips on how to get this thing off? From my understanding it should just fall off once the snap ring is out. Is the field coil messed up or something?


Also, here are the pictures of the clutch I pulled off...it's messed up pretty nicely:



There was also something else that caught my eye. The new clutch I bought from autozone has the plug for the sensor on the clutch. The old plug is on the side of the motor. Is this going to be a problem? Do I have the wrong clutch, or is my motor swapped? I had this problem when I bought a power steering cap, none of the ones they showed fit it (I ended up finding my old one at the back of the engine about 50 miles later). I took some pictures of this too:




edit: does anyone have the belt size if I wanted to just run it without the a/c compressor attached? I need to use my car asap so if I could do that I can just put a whole new compressor on sometime later.
 

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birdman941

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.................
 

bigsheldy

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#11
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Well, I got it all taken off and put back on...started up the car...won't fire. It turns over just fine and keeps going but it won't start up. I seriously can't believe this...any ideas what could be the problem? Coil pack? Ignition switch? Alternator?
 

2BADSTANGS

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Jun 19, 2008
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Sep 23, 2008
#12
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  • #12
Check that crankshaft position sensor and make sure the correct wires are plugged into it.
 

Skud

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#13
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  • #13
In the picture with the red circle, that's the crankshaft position sensor. If the computer doesn't get a signal from that sensor it won't fire. Double-triple check that sensor and wire..

Riley
 

bigsheldy

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Sep 24, 2008
#14
  • Sep 24, 2008
  • #14
I tried taking it out and plugging it in again to no avail, could it just be totally shot? Would something like that go bad while the car is running? What about the IAC, would that be something that would do this or would that just make it sputter? What I've come up with so far:

1. crank sensor
2. iac
3. ignition coils
4. ignition switch
5. alternator

ideas? input? I really hope I don't have to get this thing towed to a shop.

edit: Tomorrow I'm going to replace the crank sensor ($22) and the IAC($50). If it's neither of those I'm taking it in. Am I wasting my time replacing them?
 

bigsheldy

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Sep 24, 2008
#15
  • Sep 24, 2008
  • #15
Also, the check engine light and battery light stays on when I have the ignition turned all the way and if I try to start it. All the other lights come on too but they shut off...does this mean it's throwing a code? Is it just throwing a check engine light or is the battery light on as well (meaning alternator?)? I'm really stuck here guys (its almost 2.30 in the morning now).
 

SVT32VDOHC

waiting for the next hack atta
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Sep 24, 2008
#16
  • Sep 24, 2008
  • #16
I just did this yesterday.

Take off belt.

Pull out the 8mm bolt from the center

Remove the clutch

Take snap ring pliers and remove the C-clip.

Gently take the pulley and it will pull off.

Slide the new pulley on and reinstall the C-clip.

Reinstall the new clutch assy.


No need for a pulley puller.
 
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BobHyatt

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#17
  • Sep 24, 2008
  • #17
bigsheldy said:
I'm putting a new a/c clutch on my 96 GT and I'm having some problems. I read some of the writeups on here but I can't figure it out. I removed the front plate (which had sheared apart when the clutch went) and I don't know what to do next. I have an a/c clutch puller I rented from autozone but I can't figure out how to use it. Do I have to remove the snap ring first? I'm lost...

edit: Does anyone know what the belt size is for these motors without the a/c compressor? Would I be able to run a shorter belt without going to the a/c or is that not possible on these?
Click to expand...

You have to remove the snap-ring first. Otherwise you can't get things off. Once it is out, you should be able to get the entire thing, coil and all off. You can generally do this with a flat-blade screwdriver if you are careful. You can use the bolt installer tool, or just tap the new coil into place until it bottoms out against the compressor. All that is left is to play with the silly shim set to get the proper air gap between the clutch plate and pulley. You have to get it within the specs they quote or it will slip and burn up or not grab at all, or else will be closed all the time and drag/burn up when the A/C is not on.
 

SVT32VDOHC

waiting for the next hack atta
Founding Member
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Sep 25, 2008
#18
  • Sep 25, 2008
  • #18
How much did you pay for a new assy????

I just put a used one on. I don't recommed that, but I work at a JY so I have tons of Ford compressors laying around. I just grabbed a quiet one and threw it on.
 
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