A/C O-Rings?

GearHd6 · Jun 26, 2006

Does anyone happen to know the size of the o-rings on the A/C lines of my 91 Coupe? I need to swap them out, my A/C loses charge after about a week. Can I get the o-rings at NAPA or a parts place similar to that?

bill302 · Jun 26, 2006

bill302 · Jun 26, 2006

it is recommended to replace the Filter Drier / Accumulator & Orifice Tube for best results whenever you break a/c the system.all these parts and the above listed o-rings in the thread i posted above can be purchased at your local parts store...

GearHd6 · Jun 26, 2006

bill302 said:
it is recommended to replace the Filter Drier / Accumulator & Orifice Tube for best results whenever you break a/c the system.all these parts and the above listed o-rings in the thread i posted above can be purchased at your local parts store...

The system hasnt been opened for a longtime. It would only be opened the amount of time it takes to install the o-rings. If it has to be replaced i'll do it, im just curious if it needs to be replaced due to a system being open for a long period.

bill302 · Jun 26, 2006

if it had a leak it was open and i always heard to and i always have changed these parts for the best results
call any a/c specialist they will verify and read article below.

Replacing the receiver-drier is essential when servicing the A/C system. Whenever you replace a component of the A/C system you must also replace the receiver-drier. If you do not change the receiver-drier there could be serious damage to the other parts of the system, which could be very costly. You must also have proof of changing the receiver-drier in order to receive a compressor warranty.

Drier is used before the evaporator and after the condenser. The Filter Drier is where the system will filter out small amounts of contamination and moisture from the system. Each time the system is opened or worked on the Drier should be replaced. The desiccant inside the dryer will absorb moisture. Also spelled drier.

copied from http://www.aircoparts.com/AIRCO/drier.htm

bill302 · Jun 26, 2006

the Accumulator & Orifice Tube should be changed while the system is open and it can be costly to replace after the system is charged and alot of time the system will not charge properly if the Accumulator & Orifice Tube is clogged and if it charges it may not cool efficiently..but you can use the same ones if you like taking chances sometimes it works and sometimes it does'nt....

The most commonly used pressure-regulating device is the orifice tube. This is used in most Ford and General Motors cars. It is installed either in the inlet tube of the evaporator or in the liquid line between the condenser and evaporator. The down side of the orifice tube is that it can become clogged with debris and can be costly to replace. Another pressure-regulating device is the expansion valve. This is used by most import and aftermarket systems. The expansion valve can sense the pressure and temperature of the refrigerant, which makes it very efficient in controlling refrigerant to the evaporator. There are several different varieties of expansion valves. The down side is that, like the orifice tube, it can become clogged with debris and because they contain moving parts can stick or fail over time.

GearHd6 · Jun 26, 2006

Whats the average cost of a parts store reciever dryer?

bill302 · Jun 26, 2006

click on links these are the parts you need....and do you know where the a/c system is leaking from because it can be leaking at the compressor seals in which the compressor will need replacing....click on last link for compressor prices just in case leak is at the compressor.....
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=MOT&mfrpartnumber=YG343&parttype=393&ptset=A

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=FAA&mfrpartnumber=33483&parttype=397&ptset=A

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=EVP&mfrpartnumber=2086&parttype=387&ptset=A

GearHd6 · Jun 26, 2006

My A/C is factory installed, I noticed the dryer link was for dealer installed. Im not 100% sure on where its leaking, its real oily where the lines are connected at the firewall. The cars been twice to the shop to be charged and checked for leaks and both times they said it was fine. One time it lost charge by the time I picked the car up and the next time it lost charge in a week or so.

bill302 · Jun 26, 2006

sorry about that heres the right dryer click on link...
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=FAA&mfrpartnumber=33195&parttype=397&ptset=A

jrichker · Jun 26, 2006

Check to see if a R134 refit was done. If so, then pick up one of the recharge kits with dye/R134a all in one can. The dye will show you where the leaks are.Follow the link in my sig for recharge instructions after you have replaced the leaking O rings. Use non flammable brake parts cleaner to clean all the fittings and joints. The Advance Discount Auto Parts brand is cheap - $2.29 a can, and does an excellent job of washing away the excess oil & crud.

GearHd6 · Jun 26, 2006

I had the shop convert it to R134a already. This looks like the proper dryer for my application and its got the hose attached. It seems like it would be a pain to attach my original hose to the new dryer. Heres what i came up with. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=EVP&mfrpartnumber=3617&parttype=397&ptset=A

jrichker · Jun 26, 2006

GearHd6 said:
I had the shop convert it to R134a already. This looks like the proper dryer for my application and its got the hose attached. It seems like it would be a pain to attach my original hose to the new dryer. Heres what i came up with. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=EVP&mfrpartnumber=3617&parttype=397&ptset=A

That looks right to me...

GearHd6 · Jun 27, 2006

Which line does the orifice tube go in? The one from the condensor to the firewall? If so, is it at the end nearest the firewall? Thanks

bill302 · Jun 27, 2006

it should be in the same general location of the picture below....

PuterAmI · Jun 27, 2006

*points up to the picture*
That is the wrong system. That is not what is in the 91 Mustang.

Gearhd6, the orifice is built into the liquid line which indeed goes from the condenser to the evaporator (at firewall). You really should just buy the green RES o-ring kit for less than $10 from ACSource.com. You can also price your other parts there.

GearHd6 · Jun 28, 2006

Are the green o-rings better? I think I heard they're designed more for the pressures of the R-134a but I could be wrong. I ordered all new lines, would those include R-134a compliant o-rings?

jrichker · Jun 28, 2006

GearHd6 said:
Are the green o-rings better? I think I heard they're designed more for the pressures of the R-134a but I could be wrong. I ordered all new lines, would those include R-134a compliant o-rings?

The green O rings are green to show that they are compatible with R134 & the oil used with R134. It has nothing to do with pressure. All the new O rings should be R134 compatible, since that's the only refrigerant sold in disposable cans to the general public.

Vinnietbird · Jun 28, 2006

Those rings that are compatible for the R134 are on the way to you.

GearHd6 · Jun 28, 2006

Vinnietbird said:
Those rings that are compatible for the R134 are on the way to you.

Thanks a lot Vinnie. Its greatly appreciated.

A/C O-Rings?

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