A/C question

[the98stang]

Ok so about a year ago I noticed my idle was fluctuating with the A/C on. I changed the A/C cycle switch and the problem went away. Then last winter my A/C stopped blowing cold air (now it blows HOT). I put it off until now (it's blazing hot outside). I looked at the A/C clutch and noticed it wasn't kicking on at all with the A/C on. I added a can of r134 and then the clutch started turning on/off every few seconds. From this I have concluded that I have a leak somewhere in the system. I bought more r134, but this time I bought the glowing kind so I can find the leak. My question is, if I do find a leak, how can I patch it? And what can I do if I don't find a leak? Is it possible for the sealent in the r134 to patch the leak? Any help is appreciated as I am short on cash and would like to avoid the A/C repair shops. Thanks!

Tanner

 

[HOOCBB]

Ok so about a year ago I noticed my idle was fluctuating with the A/C on. I changed the A/C cycle switch and the problem went away. Then last winter my A/C stopped blowing cold air (now it blows HOT). I put it off until now (it's blazing hot outside). I looked at the A/C clutch and noticed it wasn't kicking on at all with the A/C on. I added a can of r134 and then the clutch started turning on/off every few seconds. From this I have concluded that I have a leak somewhere in the system. I bought more r134, but this time I bought the glowing kind so I can find the leak. My question is, if I do find a leak, how can I patch it? And what can I do if I don't find a leak? Is it possible for the sealent in the r134 to patch the leak? Any help is appreciated as I am short on cash and would like to avoid the A/C repair shops. Thanks!

Tanner

It's probably leaking from one of the o-rings that seals the components to each other or the front seal on the compressor is shot. The problem with using a dye is for it to show up well, you need to use a UV light.

I hate to tell you, but if you open the system and don't pull a vacuum before recharging, you will just destroy the compressor from the moisture that was allowed in system. You may not have much of a choice but to take it to a shop once you have the leak fixed to get it recharged.

 

[the98stang]

It's probably leaking from one of the o-rings that seals the components to each other or the front seal on the compressor is shot. The problem with using a dye is for it to show up well, you need to use a UV light.

I hate to tell you, but if you open the system and don't pull a vacuum before recharging, you will just destroy the compressor from the moisture that was allowed in system. You may not have much of a choice but to take it to a shop once you have the leak fixed to get it recharged.

Yes I realize the dye needs UV light to be detected.

Plus if the seal is leaking, won't the compression be worthless anyway? Why do so many people recharged their system at home with no issues?

 

[BobHyatt]

"adding charge" is a long way from "recharging". If you open the system to replace any component that will vent freon, then you need to evacuate the system to dry up any possible moisture contamination that might have entered the system. Moisture will freeze at the orifice tube and restrict freon flow and greatly reduce system efficiency. Evacuating will cause all the mosture to evaporate and the pump will extract it from the system leaving everything bone dry with no air (which does not compress or cool well) or moisture (which freezes and causes restrictions).

If you open it up, and then just recharge, it will not be a very efficient system after that...

 

[Will Smith]

ur method on what to use is good. your a/c system actually already has dye in it.. but adding more shouldn't hurt... places i would check specifically would be in and around all switches. (low and high side switches). Around where the manifold line meets the compressor. take out the front bolt on the a/c clutch and the outside part should come out.. check for leaks out the front seal of the compressor...there is a drain tube from the evaporator that goes through the firewall... check that for signs of dye and an evaporator leak. as well as check both service ports for signs of leaks... Those are the most common problem that i see at the dealership...you wont normally find leaks in he middle of a line but it is possible so dont forget to check everywhere with a uv light. some shops will evacuate a system for you at a cost and evacuate and recharge it for u when ur done....if your low on money that will save you some costs in parts and labor.....just make sure if u break that system open a good rule of thumb is:

1. keep system closed as much as possible. the accumulator has a bag inside it that will absorb some moisture but if u have it open longer than bout 30 min that bag can harness the moisture from the outside air and wont work efficiently when the system is back together.
2.check ur orifice tube for restrictions(little metal flakes that can build on them)and replace if you change any components.
3.make sure the shop that recharges the system for you evacuates and vacuums the system down for atleast 45 min prior to charging it. that way u get the most moisture out of the system b4 charging...

 

[Steve491]

It sure sounds like you have a leak somewhere, but put a set of guages on the system first. A cycling clutch could be a clogged up orifice, only the guages will tell. Not likely since you added freon and it worked again. Like everyone said, find the leak and repair it ASAP and as quick as possible. If you replace a component larger than a hose I would replace the dryer. Actually I would replace the dryer anyway.
Look for leaks at the low pressure switch, service ports, and the condenser. Most likely parts.

 

[2000fordstanggt]

i assume you tried jumping the cycle switch again? i mean now a days it wouldnt seem too unlikely that it went bad again.
andd just wanted to say thanks 98, you helped me out about a year ago with that switch

that was of course when i knew nothing, compared to what ive learned since then.
:SNSign: