Engine A/C QUESTION

Also... Do you have electric fans? Do they kick on with your A/C?
yes the A/C kicks on with my a flex-a-lite 185 which works amazing and blows

3,300 CFM of air.​


 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Potomus Pete
Pressure relief valve on top of the compressor likely let go.


The little cylinder with the white cap on the manfold above. Service pressure is 450psi before that lets go. Im pretty sure it's one time use, so you'll need to replace it.

Likely popped due to overcharging. Either too much refrigerant, or too much oil. Really need a set of manifold guages to se the high and low side pressure on a HOT day to see where you are at.
Should I buy this https://lmr.com/item/LRS-6888747/Mustang-A-C-Manifold-Service-Attachment-Charging-Port-79-93 as well or just a new pressure relief valve?
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-6888748/Mustang-A-C-Manifold-Service-Pressure-Release-Valve
And this ?
 
Last edited:
My 86 has all OEM parts plus an R134a conversion.

The conversion included:

2x new [screw on] adaptors for the charge ports
A conversion oil that is compatible with both, R12 and R134a
Getting the systems sucked down, new oil added, and service to 80% with R134a.


Still blowing cold some 15/20 years later.


At some point, I recall swapping the orifice tube but I [think] that was part of a repair that I did prior to converting to R134.
What does the orifice tube do?
 
yes the A/C kicks on with my a flex-a-lite 185 which works amazing and blows

3,300 CFM of air.​


I got.the same fan for 18 years now and it works great. I did replace the motor on it about ten years ago.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mindseye007
What does the orifice tube do?

The orifice is what creates the system pressure drop that gives the AC it's ability to cool. You have hot high pressure upstream of the orifice. Passing through the orifice acts as a restrictor, so the pressure in the system drops immediately after flowing through. That pressure drop creates a cooling effect so your "low" side is now cold.

An orifice that is too open creates less pressure drop, and less of as cooling effect. Meanwhile one that is too small creates a restriction as your high side pressure builds up way too much and pops the pressure relief.

I would just replace what you need, unless the O-rings on the other manifold are not the new green units. Would have to track down the correct o-rings, or just buy a new manifold depending on cost.

As for the clutch switch, these are adjustable. There is a screw inside the connector to turn the pressure down fromR12's 25psi to around 20-21psi needed for R-134a
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mindseye007
The orifice is what creates the system pressure drop that gives the AC it's ability to cool. You have hot high pressure upstream of the orifice. Passing through the orifice acts as a restrictor, so the pressure in the system drops immediately after flowing through. That pressure drop creates a cooling effect so your "low" side is now cold.

An orifice that is too open creates less pressure drop, and less of as cooling effect. Meanwhile one that is too small creates a restriction as your high side pressure builds up way too much and pops the pressure relief.


I would just replace what you need, unless the O-rings on the other manifold are not the new green units. Would have to track down the correct o-rings, or just buy a new manifold depending on cost.

As for the clutch switch, these are adjustable. There is a screw inside the connector to turn the pressure down fromR12's 25psi to around 20-21psi needed for R-134a
Why would happen if the clutch cycling switch was faulty or shorting out ?
 
I Just had this same thing happen to my 85 GT. The system is still R-12. I've had the car since 2007 and the a/c has never worked. Had a bunch of a/c hoses, the evaporator (yes, that evaporator) and the condenser replaced late last year. Today it was hot enough to turn the a/c on, which was the first time since the work last year, Ran fine for about a mile, then poof, saw and heard the refrigerant come out from underneath the hood. I just can't catch a break.
did you ever fix your A/C ?
 
The compressor won't engage at all. It's a low pressure cutoff switch.
Fitment Note
If the factory accumulator and compressor hose is utilized, this service port does not have the same half-moon shape inside. To correctly utilize this new service port, you must purchase a new A/C Accumulator & Compressor Hose.

would not having the proper acumulator cause
A/C Manifold Service Attachment w/ Charging Port to pop????
 

Attachments

  • lrs-6888747_cb94edf9.webp
    lrs-6888747_cb94edf9.webp
    13.4 KB · Views: 21
Fitment Note
If the factory accumulator and compressor hose is utilized, this service port does not have the same half-moon shape inside. To correctly utilize this new service port, you must purchase a new A/C Accumulator & Compressor Hose.

would not having the proper acumulator cause
A/C Manifold Service Attachment w/ Charging Port to pop????


No. That half-moon feature just allows the hose to rotate a little so when you tighten it down, it needs to be clocked in the right orientation.

The little half-moon feature just locked this feature in place. Without it you can spin it up or down slightly before you tighten the fitting up. Once tight it doesn't move

1777561262349.webp
 
No. That half-moon feature just allows the hose to rotate a little so when you tighten it down, it needs to be clocked in the right orientation.

The little half-moon feature just locked this feature in place. Without it you can spin it up or down slightly before you tighten the fitting up. Once tight it doesn't move

1777561262349.webp
Should I just buy this kit and get it installed and charged up?


Or just a new orifice line and accumulator line with new high side and low side pressure ports ? and a new Motorcraft clutch cycling switch? got to have my A/C working.


What happens if the evaporator core is not working? Is the accumulator drier area suposed to frost up and leak down onto the headers ? Or does that mean it's done too?
 
Last edited: