A/C Sytem Complete Overhaul - What Upgrades are Available?

[David Pepiton]

yeah finding it is very hard.

 

[1200gt]

Personally, I find R12 to be a superior refrigerant if you can still find it.

While I agree with the principle, it falls into the same category as using a 94-95 Mustang condenser. The question arises: is it really worth the extra expense and effort? Once you get moving above 15 MPH, it seems to work as good as it ever did.

Exactly, the expense and effort spent would be up to the op, if you sit in a lot of traffic then it is certainly a no brainer IMHO.

Mine blew extremely cold (134a) even in traffic, with the clutch fan. I put an electric fan on during the winter, and if its going to blow even colder now, I might end up cooling down part of Des Moines

If said is true, I am actually excited to see how cold it gets.

Why convert? The price of R-134a has been climbing and rumors of a phase out, and licensing requirement to buy any (same as R-12) why not just stick to R-12?

Price of R-134a is up to almost $20. I've been snagging R-12 off ebay for $25/can. The license was easy to get and cost me $20 and to be honest, of the dozen or so cans i've purchased off Ebay...only one person has asked to see it. It's a few more bucks i know, but using the native gas should yield better results.

$20 a can for r134a is waaaaaaaaaay too much. I pay about $8 a can and if I buy a case, I can get it cheaper than that. I'll tell you why I converted. Hardly anyone carries R12 anymore. 30lbs of 134a = $100 while 30lbs of R12= $500+

I almost missed all this info! Thanks all for the post.

I initially asked this post questions because I plan to remove all the old A/C parts and rplace everything new! My car has been in storage for at least 18 years, although the system looks reallt clean on the outside, I don't want to take any chances leaving any stone un-turned as I live in SOUTH! Florida where it not only gets HOT!, it gets really muggy.

Besides, I have almost everything out of the car except the dash that I will pull in the process to change the evaporator and the heater core while in there.

I mostly want to know what were the procedures for the retrofit specifid to my 86gt, and also important: what if any later model parts might I swap in place of the 86 yaer stuff to get a better system in the end. Now is my chance to get it done right!

Thanks again Jrichker for another awsome write and set of diagram instructions.

So what can you guys tell me???? New parts are going in - which should they be???

 

[Noobz347]

If you're replacing the system regardless then 134a is hands down, the way to go. R12 is no longer manufactured so it's only a matter of time.

 

[Mustang5L5]

$20 a can for r134a is waaaaaaaaaay too much. I pay about $8 a can and if I buy a case, I can get it cheaper than that. I'll tell you why I converted. Hardly anyone carries R12 anymore. 30lbs of 134a = $100 while 30lbs of R12= $500+

Where are you finding it?

Parts stores near me are in the $18-20 range for a can. I have no use for bulk 134a so i only purchase a can here or there.

 

[Noobz347]

Where are you finding it?

Parts stores near me are in the $18-20 range for a can. I have no use for bulk 134a so i only purchase a can here or there.

Usually E-bay or an on-line reseller. In a pinch, I'll stop by places like TSC. They're up around $10 a can but usually a hell of a lot cheaper than what the auto-stores are gouging. If you have a parts supply warehouse in your area (one that supplies many auto-parts stores) and it has a retail window/office, those are usually good places. Then.... there's Walmart. They're all over the place... sometimes they get what the parts stores get and sometimes they're $5 a can. Depends on how much they bought and how bad they're looking to get rid of it.

I think the case I have now (still 6 of the 12 cans left), I paid $57 for a year-ish ago. Looking around, it looks like I'd pay $8-10 more today for that same case.

I don't have a use for bulk 134a either... You can bet though, that if I came across a 30 lb cylinder of R12 or a price ANYWHERE NEAR what I could get 134 for, I'd be all over it. Hell, I'd advertise on Craigslist and make a MINT.

 

[2000xp8]

Good luck replacing the evaporator

I almost missed all this info! Thanks all for the post.

I initially asked this post questions because I plan to remove all the old A/C parts and rplace everything new! My car has been in storage for at least 18 years, although the system looks reallt clean on the outside, I don't want to take any chances leaving any stone un-turned as I live in SOUTH! Florida where it not only gets HOT!, it gets really muggy.

Besides, I have almost everything out of the car except the dash that I will pull in the process to change the evaporator and the heater core while in there.

I mostly want to know what were the procedures for the retrofit specifid to my 86gt, and also important: what if any later model parts might I swap in place of the 86 yaer stuff to get a better system in the end. Now is my chance to get it done right!

Thanks again Jrichker for another awsome write and set of diagram instructions.

So what can you guys tell me???? New parts are going in - which should they be???

IMO if the heater core doesn't leak, don't mess with the dash.
Even if you did pull the box out, good luck getting the evaporator out without destroying the box itself. I run my stock evaporator with the 134 setup from an 03 cobra and it works fine.

 

[1200gt]

Got all my stuff in this weekend. As it turns out, the suction hose is a bit different for the upto 93 years than it is for the 86. Mine plumbed down the left of the engine bay and the other yrws. swing around the back firewall and down the right of the intake. 6 in one-hand-half dozen in another to me. The lengths appear to be the same. the diff. comes into play at the accumulator and how the pipe is welded into orientation from the mftrs.

The commpressors are the same for many of the models but there seems to be two different compressors installed for all of the years thru 93. I believe this has to do with the systems being either factory installed or dealer installed.

Still have'nt tackled the dash removal yet; been working alot these days. I'll follow thru on this post later for you guys who may decide to do this job yourselves... Thanks for the advice 2000xp8.

BTW, got most of my parts from Rockauto. They charge you shipping from everywhere! and for about everything! - but they still turned out to be cheaper than most everybody else even with other free shipping offers.

Got my compressor used because no-one seems to sell them NEW! BEWARE!!! of ebay sellers stating they are selling "new" compressors; they are, IMO dishonest because they are infact selling remanufactured units, and should be honest and say so -Some do.... There's a company here in Miami that sells the compressor and clutch assy. remanf. for $153.00ish -They are on ebay also. A very good price! I'll tell you how good they are if you wait till I'm all done.....

Edit:
I almost forgot! The pressure switch that attaches to the accumulator is different for R-12 and 134a systems. You have to get one set for 134a pressures according to the parts discription on the parts site and the box that the swith came in if you are converting from r-12 to 134a refrigerants (seems to be important to know) I suppose they trip the pressure points at different values....

Also, I had two choices of condensor contruction: One being the serpentine type where the tubes ran back and forth in one snaking line, and The-Other choice being the type (forgot name) where the refrigerant enters one end of the condsr. and can travel thru and tube it seeks, before exiting at the other end /tube. I read that the later was better because it held the refrgerant in the condensor longer for better heat exchange, but the down side was when the system needed repair this type was almost imposible to clean out and would be better to replace everytime a compressor failed. conversely, the serp type could be blown clean being that its constructed linierly.