A Different Look At the ACT Sensor

As many of us have come to realize the ACT sensor can cause some dramatic changes in performance on our cars. This becomes even more evident when switching to metal cold air intakes or while driving in extreme ambient temps. Being that they affect so many different aspects of our computer it's obvious it is pivotal to have a ACT sensor that is both clean and accurate. I, as well as a couple others have experimented with different resistors and such to replace the ACT sensor. Some have seen advantages as well as disadvantages to trying to fool the computer. While I saw benefits from such resistors, I never felt comfortable about not having the flexibility of the computer being aware of adjustments in temperature. Because of this I have since switched back to the typical ACT sensor.

Currently in SoCal we are seeing ambient temps over the 100* mark. This again began to spur some additional thought in regards to this topic. Over the years of replacing and switching sensors I remembered that not all sensors were alike. I remembered that some of the sensors I had used were made solely of plastic, while others were made of metal where it screwed into the intake track as well as the casing that protected the sensor. I couldn't help but ponder the effects in this realm further in regards to idea of heat soak which many show concern about with the metal cold air intakes. I came to the conclusion that a metal sensor casing would only heat soak the reading furthermore, than what the actual reading from the element should be.

This began to change my previous thinking. Before I had thought a metal casing was indicative of a stronger, longer lasting, higher quality, and more accurate sensor. And while technically this may be the case, in real world setting I began to think this wouldn't hold quite as true. After coming to this conclusion I searched through my Mustang-Pile-O-Extra-Crap and found a ACT sensor I had replaced solely because of the fact I had previously looked more favorably on a metallic one. I may be crazy :shrug: but I think the entirely plastic sensor actually makes the car perform far better in extreme heat. We'll see how it reacts over the next few days but I'm happy with the switch so far :)

I don't know what brand or type of sensors many of you use, but for those who are concerned about this subject, this may be an additional consideration when looking into the effects of the ACT sensor on performance. Thanks for listing to my ramblings.
- Justin
 
great topic!

i'm still learning about all this efi stuff myself, but from what i've read so far, seems this little sensor plays a big role in performance (too hot, backs timing off) and also seems like it's often overlooked/disregarded.

interested in seeing what results you come up with.
 
Good stuff Justin. :nice:

It sure seems to me that the polymer IAT's would be much less able to absorb heat than one with any metal in it. I didnt even know we had metal ones for our cars - I think of ACT's (going in the lower intakes, a la a fox) as being metal and the IAT's (for our inlet tubes) as being polymeric.

I remember an interesting thread that Mr Grady started awhile back IIRC. It dealt with heat transfer per time in a CAI (heat soak while idling vs with the throttle blade open and such). This very IAT issue was in the back of my mind during that whole thread because my IAT readings can be outrageous (polymer IAT, chrome CAI that you can cook eggs on).

FWIW Justin, I ran the resistor for one summer and never used it again either.
 
I have no experience with the plastic ACT sensors…but do have a bit of data dealing with the stocker. I noticed after switching to the megasquirt setup that I had some issues with hot starts and differences in tuning in different temperatures. With the ability to now datalog, I noticed stock intake temps with the ACT in the stock location were in the 150F* to 170F* range with mid 90F* summer ambient temps. Keep in mind, these are temps without any type of boost. When you add boost to the equation, the temps would actually drop. To me, this is indicative of a heat soaked sensor. While there certainly can be some actual heatsoak of the air itself, the dwell time of the air would need to be MUCH greater to notice any appreciable difference. This is most noticed when you drive for an extended period of time, shut the car off and return a short duration later. The air obviously has far more time to absorb heat from the already heatsoaked intake.

Now, seeing as megasquirts speed density setup seems to rely heavier on air temps than the stock computer for the fueling equation….I decided to relocate the ACT sensor into my intake tubing in the fenderwell where there will be much less heatsoak (a NPT plug was placed in the stock ACT location). What I noticed was far improved drivability and better hotstarts. I obviously had to re-tune things out a bit…but none the less, I was extremely pleased. As far as actual temps go, I was now reading actual ambient temps while driving down the road. When it came time to get into boost, the temps rose as they should.
 
Ah, the act sensor. The little sensor that has caused me headaches from the get-go.
Still, to this day, if I replace my happy little resistor with the IAT the car runs like ****. I have never been able to explain it, but that little sensor does A LOT.
 
That little sensor has been a PAIN IN MY ARSE!!

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=716620

On an AODE car, it can actually put the transmission in default mode (2nd gear only). When it does this at WOT in the top of 3rd gear it's a scary mother.

You can hear it at the end of the first run on this video of mine: http://videos.streetfire.net/video/b308ace3-e912-489a-8138-993e00bc036c.htm

My C&L pipe put the sensor too close to the Strut Tower. The engine would torque and press the sensor up against the tower where it cracked the harness and would "temporarily" unplug the sensor under torque loads. Very tough one to track down.

So I have a question that was never answered in my thread. Can I safely move it in front of the M/A meter in my intake setup?

Oh, and BTW - my sensor is plastic, not metal.
 
Nice thread! I didn't think much about the plastic vs. metal IAT sensor. When I installed my cheap ebay CAI I just replaced the stock plastic one with a metal new one since I was having a hot start issue that got worse the hotter the outside temp was. Now that I think more about it my hot start problem might have actually got worse after I done that. I think I have since fixed my hot start problem but heat soak could have been complicating the problem I was having.
 
I was about freaking out big time :eek: :crazy: :shock:
When I saw millhouse talk of 150 act temps

I then wondered why :scratch:
he talked about not having any experience with a plastic act

I then saw the Fox Stang in his sig :rlaugh:

I've posted this dlog screen shot before but again ... maybe it will help :D

The guy on the radio said the temps in my area were ranging from 95 to 98

I was working on a certain spot in the curve of my WOT af ratio

I was just doing the space bar on and off thing to capture the specific
rpm range of 2K to 5K WOT in 3rd gear

The screen shot would not allow viewing to 5K :(
but
Temp remained at the same 100 value

The data speaks for itself ;)

btw ... my act is the OEM plastic piece
and
its mounted in a rubber Fernco coupler :)

Grady

2858_screen.jpg
 
That little sensor has been a PAIN IN MY ARSE!!

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=716620

On an AODE car, it can actually put the transmission in default mode (2nd gear only). When it does this at WOT in the top of 3rd gear it's a scary mother.

You can hear it at the end of the first run on this video of mine: http://videos.streetfire.net/video/b308ace3-e912-489a-8138-993e00bc036c.htm

My C&L pipe put the sensor too close to the Strut Tower. The engine would torque and press the sensor up against the tower where it cracked the harness and would "temporarily" unplug the sensor under torque loads. Very tough one to track down.

So I have a question that was never answered in my thread. Can I safely move it in front of the M/A meter in my intake setup?

Oh, and BTW - my sensor is plastic, not metal.

Paul

I can see no reason why the act would not report about the same temps before
or after the meter :shrug:

Grady
 
Paul

I can see no reason why the act would not report about the same temps before
or after the meter :shrug:

Grady

Kinda what I figured, I just didn't want to drill a hole in the wrong place. So what do you think about those that move the sensor to the fender, completely out of the air intake path? They won't benefit from seeing the temp drop like you show in your datalog as the rpms climb correct?
 
Kinda what I figured, I just didn't want to drill a hole in the wrong place. So what do you think about those that move the sensor to the fender, completely out of the air intake path? They won't benefit from seeing the temp drop like you show in your datalog as the rpms climb correct?

Yes Paul

I also saw where someone talked about using the temp range of the inner fender
to feed the act

Seems like you would see the temp drop some after sitting at a long stop light
as the airflow in that area would have to effect the temps

but

It don't seem as you would benefit as much as if you had it in the airflow stream of the intake pipe to the motor :shrug:

I have to think Ford put it there for a good reason ;)

Grady
 
The ECT sensor for the EEC is the one located in the hard coolant line near the alternator, the one in the lower intake is for the gauge.


FWIW- Last sunday on my way into our local FLD race, my ACT's were 146* but the car was idling for about 15 minutes. I can get them to around 70* by icing the intake but by the time I do a burnout and stage they are back up into the 80-90's.
 
I need a real gauge. But here's how I race my car at the track without using ice:

My car will stay cooler with the fan on manual high speed while in the staging lanes. I leave it this way until I stage at the tree actually. My temps will be at the "O" in Normal on the idiot gauge. All the rest of the time it'll be 50% where the t-stat opens.
 
Paul has you covered Paul. :nice: If buying a new one, remember the ECT is a *sensor* and has multiple wires. THe gauge has a *sender* and has just a one wire hook-up. I say this so you can check before you buy - parts guys get them backwards sometimes.

I've had IAT readings at the EEC of about 200*F before (It was 115*F outside; doing lots of idling after errands. There were waves of heat rippling off the asphalt). I have literally lost skin (it sizzled) on the chrome CAI. And I'm talkin about the 94 here. That IAT must soak like crazy.

And I still think there's gotta be something in the EEC that relies on IAT readings a LOT for AODEs. Wes might know - he and I have been chatting a good bit about the AODE and tuning stuff of late (he talks and I listen) and there's a boatload of AODE BS to deal with.