A drip!!! Just Painted!! Anyone???

AnthonyR23 · May 30, 2007

Hi.. just finished painting my car... base coat then clear coat.. was told not to touch the paint job till it was finished... but I have a drip.. just finished tonight so haven't looked close and it is all still wet.... but I know that I can't do anything till its dry.. next stage is to wet sand it after at least 24 hours but within 48 hours.. and I know the details about that.... Let's hope it's a clear coat drip!!! but if it is a base drip under the clear coat... any suggestions????? Any help on this would be great!!!

Leezure · May 30, 2007

If the base coat ran as a result of applying the clear coat (some base/clear paint combinations are incompatible and the clear will actually cause the base to liquify) then you will have to correct the base coat and reapply the clear.

If it is a run in the clear then things are much easier. You need to knock down the run with a nudger (a tool that looks like a block and has small metal teeth, available at your paint store) then 1000 grit, 1500, 2000 and finally a polish with 3M hand glaze and a rotary buffer.

Runs in the clear are almost a given at the amateur level and I have yet to shoot a layer of clear without one. Even the pros get them due to the fact that the last coat of clear is usually rather thick.

Just make sure that your run is completely sanded smooth, without going down to the base before buffing. You won't even notice the run when your finished.

Mikey1968 · May 30, 2007

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/...CT&iMainCat=1342&iSubCat=1393&iProductID=1767

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/...?itemID=1771&itemType=PRODUCT&iProductID=1771

Good Luck!
Mike

AnthonyR23 · May 30, 2007

Luckily it is just in the clear coat!!!

jammer84_03 · May 30, 2007

if you dont want to buy the tool, just take a razor blade and put a small bend in it. now wrap some pieces of masking tape at both ends of the blade. now with nice smooth strokes take down the run as much as you dare. when its almost flush, take some 1000 grit paper and wrap it round a paint stick and smooth out the run the rest of the way. did you not bake your clear when you painted? what system did you go with?

Killa Klown · May 30, 2007

Thats not a drip or run thats a "vertical flow indicator" we all get them from time to time .....

jammer84_03 · May 30, 2007

lol...i did on my first car when i was learing at wyotech. no its as smooth as silk...

Hot Rods and PPG Forever!!!!!

91lxttrim · May 31, 2007

Congrats on getting it done!!! Got any pics for us?

Twisted306 · May 31, 2007

AnthonyR23 said:
Hi.. just finished painting my car... base coat then clear coat.. was told not to touch the paint job till it was finished... but I have a drip.. just finished tonight so haven't looked close and it is all still wet.... but I know that I can't do anything till its dry.. next stage is to wet sand it after at least 24 hours but within 48 hours.. and I know the details about that.... Let's hope it's a clear coat drip!!! but if it is a base drip under the clear coat... any suggestions????? Any help on this would be great!!!

if u have a run in the clear coat wet sand 1500 grit sand paper rap it around a paint stick sand the run out sand whole car with 2000 grit wet sand buff will shine for it to dry realy good set the car in the sun light for a few day for if u have a heated paint booth

AnthonyR23 · May 31, 2007

Hey.. I have just started with the door.. want to get it right before moving on to the rest of the car.. so I got rid of the drip.. and sanded with 1500 grit... I also went out and got some compound.. that is supposed to remove buffing swirl marks... but am doing it by hand with a cloth from 3m... Paint on the door now looks foggy... at the paint shop they said thats normal... how much should I be sanding with the 1500 grit... till it is smooth?? there is still texture on some of the door.. and is it hard to get it back glossy... how do I get rid of that foggy look... I like the way the rest of the car looks.. other than if you run your hand over it it isn't really smooth... I will post pics once I get it finished.. still have half a gallon of paint left and half a gallon of clear.. so worst case scenario I will have to mask off the door and repaint it.. I'm not going to touch the rest of the car until this door is done... any advice on buffing it after sanding without a machine... circular motion??

AnthonyR23 · May 31, 2007

this makes me a bit nervous!!

Leezure · May 31, 2007

You will need to sand the drip down until perfectly level with the rest of the clear being careful not to cut all the way into the base coat. The paint stirrer suggestion is the one I believe in most to do this.

Once you have wet sanded the spot smooth with 2000 grit the area will look scratched, hazy and dull. This is normal. The next step is buffing or polishing. I've never been able to buff everything out by hand so I use a rotary buffer with a foam pad and 3M hand glaze.

You will also need to be careful with this especially if you are working near any raised edges. Don't cut through the clear coat! Your goal is to polish it until all of the small sanding scratches are gone.

If you do this correctly you may find that the spot you fixed is shinier than the rest of the painted surface. If so just continue on with the buffer making sure that you use plenty of water to keep the heat down and don't let the glaze cake up on the buffer.

Good Luck!

AnthonyR23 · May 31, 2007

I am actually back and forth inside and out.. trying to look stuff up... I think I am gonna run out to princess auto and buy a buffer tool for my air compressor.. I like the way the car looks from far.. it's just those clear drips I'm worried about... I may have to sand the car door right down to base, mask it off and give it another coat of base.. then clear coat it again... what do you guys think... I will try to add a couple pics.

jammer84_03 · Jun 1, 2007

dont use an air based tool for the buffer!!!!!!!!!!!!! unless it is rpm regulated.....that will be the fastest way to burn right through your paint. just pony up $299 for a rpm adjustible dewalt and you'll be plenty happy with that purchase

AnthonyR23 · Jun 1, 2007

just bought a electric one for 19.99 at princess auto... on sale... is definitely a little slow going though... would rather a slow going one than one that burns through too fast!!

SVT32VDOHC · Jun 1, 2007

you definately need a wheel. I use a Makita wheel all the time, since I paint a lot it is the only way to go. I try doing small corners by hand and it never works...it will always look dull. 1500 grit scratches rub out to a smooth finish if you use the right compound. I use the 3M Perfect-It II Rubbing Compound Part # 05973. You can only get it from an automotive paint store. It runs about 30-40 dollars per bottle. I have used the 10 dollar bottle of 3M and Meguiars rubbing compound from like an Autozone or Murrays, and it is JUNK. It never works. If you still can't get the scatches out, try and use 2000 grit next and rub that out. Hopefully you didn't burn through the clear, then you will have to paint the bad area, and clear the panel. You don't have to repaint the whole entire door! Good Luck!!

jammer84_03 · Jun 2, 2007

im with svt....3m is the best with its perfect-it line...thats all i ever use. and the 1500 to 2000 stages as well.....just take your time

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