a few 440 big block conversion ?'s

ok, after doing a little E-shopping. I am ready to concede. using strictly NEW parts, the cost for BOTH engines is the same +/- a few dollars. I am sure that scouring the web for best deals could knock a few hundred off here or there, but I only looked for 45 minutes and both a 408 or 6.0 Gm motor run in the ballpark of 7500-8400 depending on brand of part selection. If anyone wants a list of the parts I was looking at pm me and I will be happy to send it to you.


On the flip side I could easily see used JY GM motors being more cost effective as you dont see a whole lot of 351 based strokers in the wrecking yard, but dollars to donuts. new parts for either are identical.
 
I'm sorry....where did I state these cars couldn't go that quick? My argument was that you weren't seeing 550hp from a 6.0L with little more than an L98 head swap a carb/intake and ignition upgrades like you were trying to lead us to believe. Especially one that does it on all motor without "breathing hard".

I find it a little ironic that you fail to note the other modifications made to said vehicles. I mean....look at the list of supporting parts in this guys set up.



You can't on one hand go and say making these power levels and running these times can be done for peanuts, then provide examples of stripper cars, with everything imaginable done to them in order to pull it off.

Why don't you PM this guy and ask him what he's got into it. I bet it’s way, way North of "$3,500 Max". ;)

Same goes for your second example.....another purpose built, stripped race car. And for all we know, he was running a 250hp shot of nitrous through that custom manifold at the top of the track in order to run those times. Not expensive, but not exactly “all motor” either.

YOU CAN MAKE THAT POWER WITH A STOCK BOTTOM END AND OFF THE SHELF HEADS, I NEVER SAID YOU COULD BUILD A CAR FOR 3500 MAX, GO BACK AND READ WHAT I SAID, LONGBLOCK WITH ELECTRONICS FOR 3500, IF YOU DIDNT KNOW, A LONGBLOCK IS A SHORTBLOCK PLUS CYLINDER HEADS.

When it comes right down to it, the first guy was making mid 10 second power with a 3200 lb race weight, you said no way could someone make that power without dipping into the bottom end, well that guy proved different. HP is HP, no matter what car its in, what the rest of the car is, and the motor is still an untouched bottom end with cylinder heads that were untouched off of a GTO.

And the second car had a small shot on it(125-150), went mid 10's on motor and then went 9.80 on spray at 144.


But on a more serious note, the lack of technical information and ignorance on this site is just really bothering the **** out of me lately, and every thread with good information in it gets bombarded by whoever can talk someone else into a corner, no matter if what they are saying is right or wrong, so i think im done here, i really do like 5.0talk but seriously, its like everytime someone says anything but FORD RULES on here, theres an ******* waiting to fart on them. So i guess this means i'll be spending my time on yellowbullet and corral from now on
 
But on a more serious note, the lack of technical information and ignorance on this site is just really bothering the **** out of me lately, and every thread with good information in it gets bombarded by whoever can talk someone else into a corner, no matter if what they are saying is right or wrong, so i think im done here, i really do like 5.0talk but seriously, its like everytime someone says anything but FORD RULES on here, theres an ******* waiting to fart on them. So i guess this means i'll be spending my time on yellowbullet and corral from now on

I've said it before- we have had an increasing problem with internet tough guys around here. I've come close to leaving the site myself. I guess I'm a glutton for punishment.
 
I've said it before- we have had an increasing problem with internet tough guys around here. I've come close to leaving the site myself. I guess I'm a glutton for punishment.

Its not even internet tough guys its people that think they know it all, and when someone comes in with a different idea, its just plain wrong.

Yep and one of them is a ignorant hoser who can say whatever he wants cause he is a moderator, its not worth it to me to get this fired up over bull****, and listen to people talk circles around themselves my username is Doc's Notch on the other forums, feel free to look me up.
 
Well...what does mid-400's to the tire equal at the crank? Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you consider a 15-20% drivetrain loss, that puts your friend up over (and possibly well over) the 500hp mark, does it not? I'm also now betting that the 550hp figure quoted by 90lxcoupe above was on an engine dyno....not based on SAE or chassis dyno numbers. Which when you consider you’ve eliminated drivetrain components and all accessories from the engine puts it right in at around the same ranges as your buddies 393W. :shrug:

Now...If I'm wrong and 90lxcoupe is quoting 550rwhp from such a simple combination, then I invite him to provide proof of such. I'd be very interested to see it. :)



I actually said 500-600hp 351W based stroker, but in any case....you don't consider a 408W-427W stroker with compitent heads, cam and intake with full exhaust/supporting parts and minimal accessories, making 500-600hp a reliable engine combination? I mean....your buddies 393W seems to be making over, or well over 500hp at the crank.....how reliable is it? :shrug:


I have a hard time believing that a cam, exhaust an intake/carb and tune alone is going to add 150hp to an LS3. Guys with LS7's aren't even picking up those kinds of horsepower gains with just those few mods and they’ve got 7.0L to work with.

My "buddys" car is my fathers actually, so I have more than just a hand in it :D.

Its backed by a Jericho... probably not looking at the drivetrain loss you posted, but I also don't know if that tranny will suck more power than a weaker manual/clutch set up. His is probably in the low 500 crank HP range. But to note this is NO accessories, no alternator, no smog, nothing. This is with a near 700 lift solid roller, higher compression and race gas. It is a reliable track engine, NOT a street motor.

So what I am saying is take his 393, with AFR 185s, toss a weaker camshaft in (noone will run a 700 lift SR on the street), lose some compression (noone is going to run race gas on the street), add accessories (PS, power brakes, alternator, etc) and your low 500 hp motor is now making a bit less. Sure you can add a better set of heads (his are just some upgraded AFR 185s with no work done to them) but when you claimed 500-600 hp and being reliable and streetable, I just want to see the 550-600 hp versions. :shrug:

From what I have seen, it doesn't take much to get mid 400 rwhp out of an LSX motor... haven't seen a lot of all motor 351 based cars knocking down similar power.


EDIT: I know power brakes aren't and accessory, and are more associated with the cam and vaccuum than they are with the engine driven systems... I figure some might attack me for that comment.
 
ok, after doing a little E-shopping. I am ready to concede. using strictly NEW parts, the cost for BOTH engines is the same +/- a few dollars. I am sure that scouring the web for best deals could knock a few hundred off here or there, but I only looked for 45 minutes and both a 408 or 6.0 Gm motor run in the ballpark of 7500-8400 depending on brand of part selection. If anyone wants a list of the parts I was looking at pm me and I will be happy to send it to you.
Thank you, that's about what I was getting at. It sounds easy to do when throwing around horsepower figures and quarter mile times, but once you get it all down on paper, there's no real savings when comparing new parts.

Just curious....did you also factor in the needed swap parts in order to install the LSX engine into the Mustang as well, or was this just a price comparison between the engines themselves?

On the flip side I could easily see used JY GM motors being more cost effective as you dont see a whole lot of 351 based strokers in the wrecking yard, but dollars to donuts. new parts for either are identical.
I don't disagree. Used parts will most certainly offer a cost advantage. You only then have to worry about said condition of used parts and whether or not you're willing to push that kind of power through/make that kind of investment into a set up that you have no idea what its past history has held?

And again, as stated....we've also got to factor in the additional cost of swap parts (transmission, clutch assembly, accessories, brackets, K-member, ignition, wiring, exhaust, lines, hoses, radiator, gaskets, bolts, etc, etc) into the mix to really see the big picture. And knowing how expensive these items are, I'm willing to bet that the cost, overshadows the benefits. :shrug:

YOU CAN MAKE THAT POWER WITH A STOCK BOTTOM END AND OFF THE SHELF HEADS, I NEVER SAID YOU COULD BUILD A CAR FOR 3500 MAX, GO BACK AND READ WHAT I SAID, LONGBLOCK WITH ELECTRONICS FOR 3500, IF YOU DIDNT KNOW, A LONGBLOCK IS A SHORTBLOCK PLUS CYLINDER HEADS.

When it comes right down to it, the first guy was making mid 10 second power with a 3200 lb race weight, you said no way could someone make that power without dipping into the bottom end, well that guy proved different. HP is HP, no matter what car its in, what the rest of the car is, and the motor is still an untouched bottom end with cylinder heads that were untouched off of a GTO.

And the second car had a small shot on it(125-150), went mid 10's on motor and then went 9.80 on spray at 144.


But on a more serious note, the lack of technical information and ignorance on this site is just really bothering the **** out of me lately, and every thread with good information in it gets bombarded by whoever can talk someone else into a corner, no matter if what they are saying is right or wrong, so i think im done here, i really do like 5.0talk but seriously, its like everytime someone says anything but FORD RULES on here, theres an ******* waiting to fart on them. So i guess this means i'll be spending my time on yellowbullet and corral from now on

I'm sorry you've got such a twisted account of our conversational exchange. You simulating shouting by typing it in bold lettering doesn’t make it any more relevant BTW. I made no mention of "building a car" for $3,500. The $3,500 amount was your answer to my request for you to put the engine together and make the swap. Please don't chastise me because you've got issues with reading comprehension. I realize you now state that you made reference to only the being able to build a long block for that price, but in others you made inference to building LSX’s with big, reliable power levels and dropping them into the Mustang chassis without readdressing the cost. If you've got an issue with my requesting clarification or qualifying my points, then I really don't know what to tell you. Perhaps if you took the time to list and qualified your own points right from the beginning instead of making blanketed statements and dismissing mine, this wouldn't have turned into the pissing match it did? :shrug:

In any case, I'm quite aware now that the reason you chose not to, was to be frank, because I believe you were half talking out of your hat, and probably didn’t care enough to look in depth into it to start with, but the hissy fit and the "I'm taking my ball and going home" attitude makes you look the foolish one here, not myself, or the other members who would otherwise disagree with your opinion.

As far as the rest of your post goes….again, I don’t argue his times, or power levels. He put together a combination using used and junk yard parts that worked well. I don’t contest this fact, no matter how many times you choose to bring it up and make it sound like I do. The only issue here, is that you refuses to accept that a person could do the same with used or junk yard Ford parts. You seem to believe that since junk yards aren’t full of big inch strokers because Ford never build one from the factory, that a person having to build one themselves is going to break the bank? I’ll counter that with the supporting drivetrain, exhaust, ignition, cooling, chassis accessories, brackets and misc swap and build parts needed to install said LSX series engine (as stated above) into the Mustang chassis, overshadows the money saved on buying the used short block! So really….in the end, what have you gained with the Chevy engine swap? You’ve realistically spent more money to go just as fast as you could have, had you stuck with a Ford based power plant. You’ve gained the uniqueness of owning a cross bred vehicle at the end, but that and $1.25 will get you a cup of coffee at the end of the day. :shrug:

If you want to shuffle off your own short sightedness onto others because you can’t hold an intelligent debate without losing your ****, then that’s on you! If you want to leave and head over to another board because you can’t help but insult the other members of this site with statements like of “the lack of technical information and ignorance on this site is just really bothering the **** out of me lately” because you can’t formulate a plausible response, then don’t let the door hit you on the way out. I see plenty of good information in this thread…some of which was even contributed by yourself. If you can’t recognize it and choose to dismiss it all because of a difference of opinion, then Yellowbullet or The Corral might just be the best place for you.

If you chose to go, rest assured you’ll be missed by many (myself included), but your attitude right now is toxic and unnecessary.
 
Yep and one of them is a ignorant hoser who can say whatever he wants cause he is a moderator, its not worth it to me to get this fired up over bull****, and listen to people talk circles around themselves my username is Doc's Notch on the other forums, feel free to look me up.
My patience with your insults is wearing thin. Tread lightly. I'm being fair and civil with you, I expect the same courtesy.
 
my friend has a 440 with a 727 that he inherited. hes looking for a mustang to put it in. that was the reason for the original post. we seen one down at norwalk a few years ago. and take it easy guys, at least it was made in the united states.
 
While I agree with 90lxcoupe and stykthyn and the other LS supporters, even they are underestimating the LS motor. You don't need an LS3, or an LS2 or even a 6.0L to make the numbers. A stock 346 LS1 with a decent top end will make over 500 to the tires. A bone stock 346 with the right cam can make well over 400.

Here's the Texas Speed Camaro. Stock 346", off the shelf low budget PRC215s, off the shelf rather mild hydraulic roller MS4 cam and some off the shelf supporting bolt-ons.

YouTube - Texas Speed & Performance LS1 Heads/Cam Stock Bottom-End National 1/4 Mile Record


Now, this is the smallest LS motor made, and it's a stock short block. I'm not going to ask anyone to show me a 347 ford, or a stock short block 351, we all know that's not even close to fair. How about a 400+ inch $2k rotating assembly sbf running numbers like this with ots heads and an ots hydraulic roller?? I know I've never seen it.

Think about that top-end, carbed on an aluminum 6.0L in a 2600lb fox? The thing would make 550+, go mid 9s and be ridiculously streetable.

You can hate crossbreeding to the death, but jesus christ this motor ****ing owns.
 
While I agree with 90lxcoupe and stykthyn and the other LS supporters, even they are underestimating the LS motor. You don't need an LS3, or an LS2 or even a 6.0L to make the numbers. A stock 346 LS1 with a decent top end will make over 500 to the tires. A bone stock 346 with the right cam can make well over 400.

Here's the Texas Speed Camaro. Stock 346", off the shelf low budget PRC215s, off the shelf rather mild hydraulic roller MS4 cam and some off the shelf supporting bolt-ons.

YouTube - Texas Speed & Performance LS1 Heads/Cam Stock Bottom-End National 1/4 Mile Record


Now, this is the smallest LS motor made, and it's a stock short block. I'm not going to ask anyone to show me a 347 ford, or a stock short block 351, we all know that's not even close to fair. How about a 400+ inch $2k rotating assembly sbf running numbers like this with ots heads and an ots hydraulic roller?? I know I've never seen it.

Think about that top-end, carbed on an aluminum 6.0L in a 2600lb fox? The thing would make 550+, go mid 9s and be ridiculously streetable.

You can hate crossbreeding to the death, but jesus christ this motor ****ing owns.

Whaddya know, its in a Camaro! :D

I'd like to see his compression numbers, what fuel he uses, and how high this engine revs, just out of curiosity.
 
While I agree with 90lxcoupe and stykthyn and the other LS supporters, even they are underestimating the LS motor. You don't need an LS3, or an LS2 or even a 6.0L to make the numbers. A stock 346 LS1 with a decent top end will make over 500 to the tires. A bone stock 346 with the right cam can make well over 400.

Here's the Texas Speed Camaro. Stock 346", off the shelf low budget PRC215s, off the shelf rather mild hydraulic roller MS4 cam and some off the shelf supporting bolt-ons.

YouTube - Texas Speed & Performance LS1 Heads/Cam Stock Bottom-End National 1/4 Mile Record


Now, this is the smallest LS motor made, and it's a stock short block. I'm not going to ask anyone to show me a 347 ford, or a stock short block 351, we all know that's not even close to fair. How about a 400+ inch $2k rotating assembly sbf running numbers like this with ots heads and an ots hydraulic roller?? I know I've never seen it.

Think about that top-end, carbed on an aluminum 6.0L in a 2600lb fox? The thing would make 550+, go mid 9s and be ridiculously streetable.

You can hate crossbreeding to the death, but jesus christ this motor ****ing owns.
Lets also take into account the 2864lbs with driver race weight of the car and god knows what for drivetrain work. There's no way they're cutting 1.27 60ft times with the factory 7004R and stock converter? Based on others similar set ups, the cars trap speed, race weight and time, I'd venture a guess that the car is seeing somewhere between 450-480hp at the wheels.

And although it may still be running the stock bottom end, I wouldn't exactly consider this a realatively "mild" combination of top end parts either....especially consdering the nature of the car itself. ;)

- Precision Race Components 215 Fully CNC Ported Cylinder Heads
- Magic Stick 4 Camshaft
- F.A.S.T. 92mm Ported Intake
- P.T.M. 95mm Throttle Body
- Texas Speed 100mm MAF
- 1 7/8" KOOKS Headers

Also, you do realize thats almost $5,100 alone just for the parts quoted above, right? Without the cost of the short block itself, or any other drivetrain, suspension, gaskets, bolts, labour, etc. Factor it all in and you're still way up there in price.

Fast...most certainly! Basic....with a 2,600-2,700lb race weight...doubtful! Cheap....not too friggin likely!

For comparison purposes, you don't think a properly built, big inch Windsor powered Mustang weighing in at around the same 2,600-2,700lbs couldn't also run high-9's/low-10's all motor with the same kind of complexity and budget as the above noted Camaro? :shrug:

And again, not doubting the power making capabilities of these engines, but its a little unfair to compare a run from a world record holding, purpose built race car, to your everyday Joe's set up. I've seen bolt on LSX cars run 13's on occasion. :shrug:
 
Gearbanger101, I believe the 351 based car I keep posting is what your looking for.

He didn't do it with a stock bottom end, his weighs very similar, he has the cam as mentioned, and the compression as mentioned.

I would like to see a stock bottom end 351 out there doing it, but I haven't...
 
Gearbanger101, I believe the 351 based car I keep posting is what your looking for.

He didn't do it with a stock bottom end, his weighs very similar, he has the cam as mentioned, and the compression as mentioned.

I would like to see a stock bottom end 351 out there doing it, but I haven't...

I don't doubt its possible, but the fact remains is that stock 351W never did come with overly tough internal components. The crank is pretty stout, but I wouldn't want to make a combination of both big horsepower and high RPM with one. The same pretty much goes for the stock rods....and to be honest, I don't know if any of them ever came from the factory with Forged Pistons?

And since this is the case, anyone who plans on going fast with these engines (and by fast I mean 10's or quicker) knows this and chooses to upgrade. The thing of it is...if you're going to get into the bottom end of the engine and replace most of the components anyway, why bother sticking with stock displacement when a big inch stroker kits have come so far down in price? A basic 393W rotating assembly can be had for less than $1,200. I mean....you can barely replace the stock rotating assembly for that price. :shock:
 
I was under the impression the 351s were very tough. Maybe it is just the block, but I have heard rumors to 700+ hp out of them wasn't a big deal. Not sure as my experience with them is through other people and they all run race motors...

My point is you do not see the 400+ rwhp 351 based street cars out there like you do the LSx cars. There are tons of LSx examples in the 400+ range, and not all too often do you see a 351 windsor car of the same. Now I know this is because the LSx motors came in these cars, so there will always be more, but you would think more people would be out there with these street friendly 400-450 rwhp 351 based all motor cars?