About my foglights

[juicedSVT]

I done a search about rewiring my foglights on stangnet as well as the internet too. My question is this..I can't find instructions that do what I want.


I want my foglights to come on when I pull the headlight knob out in the parking light position or headlight position, as well as stay on when the brights are on. But I do NOT want them to be able to come on without the parking lights or headlights on. One last thing I have seen a few foglight rewire instructions that say that the regular foglight switch won't illuminate when the headlight brights are on ,and niether will the ashtray light. Can I avoid all of this stuff?

Anyone done this? All the other ways seem kind of cheezy to me I guess

 

[HISSIN50]

It seems to me that if you use the parking light wire as the new source for your fog light switch, you should be fine.

 

[SeventyMach1]

Good question. I have no idea how to help you, though.


Since I've done my "manual FL re-wire" .... my fogs do work with brights on. And the little switch light works as well.


What's wrong with the normal re-wire? Just turn the PL's or HL's on .... and flip the fog switch. Or is it just that you don't want to have to use 2 switches?

 

[juicedSVT]

It seems to me that if you use the parking light wire as the new source for your fog light switch, you should be fine.

I'm not sure If Im following what your saying??? Eleborate for the dumb one lol

 

[juicedSVT]

Good question. I have no idea how to help you, though.


Since I've done my "manual FL re-wire" .... my fogs do work with brights on. And the little switch light works as well.


What's wrong with the normal re-wire? Just turn the PL's or HL's on .... and flip the fog switch. Or is it just that you don't want to have to use 2 switches?

Well I guess i don't know what constitute as a "normal re-wire". All of them seem to each offer something I would like to incorporate i just have yet to find the one that is exactly what I want....but about the two switch...i just want to use my stock foglight swtich and it work properly...

I guess i want to be able to leave my foglight switch switched on but it acutally only come on with the PL's and HL's ( I stole your abbreviation! ha ha ha)

 

[HISSIN50]

I'm not sure If Im following what your saying??? Eleborate for the dumb one lol

Those write-ups (I'm remembering the MustangWorld one, I think) have you use the convertible-top harness for a power source for your fog lights. Instead, you'd tap into the parking light circuit (under the dash or at the headlight switch itself) and use that to power the fog light switch. The fogs would only come on when the parking lights are on (you could almost just leave the fog light switch turned on at all times if you always want fogs on with the parking lights).
The fogs would continue to stay on when headlights and brights are turned on.

So the simple version is to follow those write-ups, but use the parking light circuit instead of the vert top switch harness, etc.

Good luck.

 

[Blackened302]

right on, JT.

at first i wanted them to come on with my parking lamps, but trust me--rolling with just the fogs on, especially at dusk looks killer!

 

[rockin_rick]

Here's specific instructions on this:

You have choice in where to pick up the parking light circuit - either the headlight switch, or the clock.

-----------------------------------

STEP #1 - choose source:

• At the headlight switch, splice into the BROWN wire (labeled 'P', right in the middle of the connector) and attach a length of 18AWG wire, apply or attach a wire loom/conduit, and route it to the fog light switch. Splice in the wire at the headlight switch - do not cut the BROWN wire.

• At the clock, splice into the BROWN wire and attach a length of 18AWG wire, apply or attach a wire loom/conduit, and route it to the fog light switch. Splice in the wire at the clock - do not cut the BROWN wire.

(The new wire will just take power from this, while it continues to power what it did before.)


-----------------------------------

STEP #2

On the fog light switch, cut the RED/BLACK wire a few inches from the switch. Tape up wire that was just cut and goes into the harness, it will no longer be used. Connect the wire from the source to the other end of the cut R/BK wire, the end that goes into the fog light switch connector.

(When 12V is on this circuit, the fog light switch is enabled allowing the switch to turn on the relay to turn on the fog lights. When no volts is on this circuit, the fog light switch cannot turn on the relay that turns on the fog lights, regardless of switch position.)


-----------------------------------


Propery heatshrink and/or tape all wire connections and ensure the wire ran does not have the possibility to short out (esp. if you didn't bother with the wire loom or conduit).

Have fun
Rick

 

[HISSIN50]

• At the clock, splice into the BROWN wire and attach a length of 18AWG wire, apply or attach a wire loom/conduit, and route it to the fog light switch. Splice in the wire at the clock - do not cut the BROWN wire.

Rick, I can't remember - is the clock on the dimmer circuit?

If so, I wouldn't use it as a source. If the dimmer is run-down (dimmed), it might create a situation where the relay chatters or the fogs simply dont come on.

If the clock isnt dimmed, then disregard my ramblings.

 

[Methodical]

right on, JT.

at first i wanted them to come on with my parking lamps, but trust me--rolling with just the fogs on, especially at dusk looks killer!

Yeah. What he says. That's how I have mine

 

[juicedSVT]

Here's specific instructions on this:

You have choice in where to pick up the parking light circuit - either the headlight switch, or the clock.

-----------------------------------

STEP #1 - choose source:

• At the headlight switch, splice into the BROWN wire (labeled 'P', right in the middle of the connector) and attach a length of 18AWG wire, apply or attach a wire loom/conduit, and route it to the fog light switch. Splice in the wire at the headlight switch - do not cut the BROWN wire.

• At the clock, splice into the BROWN wire and attach a length of 18AWG wire, apply or attach a wire loom/conduit, and route it to the fog light switch. Splice in the wire at the clock - do not cut the BROWN wire.

(The new wire will just take power from this, while it continues to power what it did before.)


-----------------------------------

STEP #2

On the fog light switch, cut the RED/BLACK wire a few inches from the switch. Tape up wire that was just cut and goes into the harness, it will no longer be used. Connect the wire from the source to the other end of the cut R/BK wire, the end that goes into the fog light switch connector.

(When 12V is on this circuit, the fog light switch is enabled allowing the switch to turn on the relay to turn on the fog lights. When no volts is on this circuit, the fog light switch cannot turn on the relay that turns on the fog lights, regardless of switch position.)


-----------------------------------


Propery heatshrink and/or tape all wire connections and ensure the wire ran does not have the possibility to short out (esp. if you didn't bother with the wire loom or conduit).

Have fun
Rick

Well apparently you are the man... I think that maybe what i am looking for. I think I am going to use the parking light relay at the headlight switch. But I do have one question.....

Won't the 55w per lightbulb be to much of a load on the parking circuit/ switch or w/e????

 

[HISSIN50]

Well apparently you are the man... I think that maybe what i am looking for. I think I am going to use the parking light relay at the headlight switch. But I do have one question.....

Won't the 55w per lightbulb be to much of a load on the parking circuit/ switch or w/e????

Again, the fog lights are powered via a relay (which sources battery power to feed the lights). All you're doing is changing the source of the wire that energizes the relay. It takes about 250 mA (.250 amps) to energize a relay.

 

[juicedSVT]

Again, the fog lights are powered via a relay (which sources battery power to feed the lights). All you're doing is changing the source of the wire that energizes the relay. It takes about 250 mA (.250 amps) to energize a relay.

Ok but either way it will take more current now that I have put 2 more lights on it. I guess i am worried about the contacts in the relay can they handle the extra current......Because I doubt 4 parking lights equal the load of a 110W worth of foglights.....

I think you know what are you talking about but I don't I just am trying to understand this so I really know what I am doing....

 

[Blackened302]

juiced, JT is the man.

 

[HISSIN50]

Ok but either way it will take more current now that I have put 2 more lights on it. I guess i am worried about the contacts in the relay can they handle the extra current......Because I doubt 4 parking lights equal the load of a 110W worth of foglights.....

I think you know what are you talking about but I don't I just am trying to understand this so I really know what I am doing....

I think you have some relay confusion. The fog lights have their own relay. If they didnt, your concerns would be valid and we'd tell you to add a fog light relay. This is not the case though.

Remember the info I posted about the draw required to energize a relay (250 mA, or in wattage if that's more tangible for you, it's ~ 3 watts). So as far as the parking light circuit is concerned, it will think you installed a bulb that is 3 watts brighter. This is nothing. You should be fine.

Good luck.

 

[slow50sally]

I did mine through the convertible switch it took me like 10mins and still uses the factory switch, I can turn them on whenever I want.

 

[rockin_rick]

Rick, I can't remember - is the clock on the dimmer circuit?

Rechecking my service manual's wiring diagram, there is a seperate dimmer circuit running to the clock, it is the LIGHTBLUE/RED wire at the clock (called ILUM INPUT). The parking lamp circuit (BROWN) also runs to the clock as I mentioned. At the clock it's called 'DIM DISPLAY INPUT'. Apparently the clock uses both circuits to dim.

So, my previously posted instructions will work. The BROWN parking lamp circuit at the clock will work as it's a switched 12V. Of course, at the headlight switch is also fine.

FWIW - I believe that the dimmer circuit LIGHTBLUE/RED is a varying voltage circuit.

Rick

 

[rockin_rick]

I think you have some relay confusion. The fog lights have their own relay. If they didnt, your concerns would be valid and we'd tell you to add a fog light relay. This is not the case though.

Remember the info I posted about the draw required to energize a relay (250 mA, or in wattage if that's more tangible for you, it's ~ 3 watts). So as far as the parking light circuit is concerned, it will think you installed a bulb that is 3 watts brighter. This is nothing. You should be fine.

Good luck.

This is dead on. To help clairify...

Adding extra fog light load (amps drawn) is worthy of consideration.

However, all the load concern is in the wiring between the foglights and the relay, the relay itself, and the wiring to the fuse in the engine compartment, the fuse (20A), and the wiring to the battery. This fog light switch mod will only draw 1/4A extra from the parking light circuit and is fine. No matter how much load is on the foglights, the parking light circuit will still only draw 1/4A when they are on. The fog light switch only ever passes or conducts 1/4A, it only turns on a relay. It does not pass all of the current from the foglights.

Back to the issue of extra load. The main issue is the wiring to the foglights from the relay. 110W in a 12V system is about 10A. I don't know what AWG the wire is from the relay to the lights... I wouldn't want 10A on an 18AWG wire, 16AWG would be better. So if it's 16AWG or bigger (bigger AWG = smaller numbers), then you're probably fine on the wire part. The relay is probably rated for more than 10A, but I don't know. It could be rated for 10A, though... Perhaps a dealer could verify this. I'd want the relay to be rated for at least 20A if the load is 10A. Most automotive relays (Bosch style) are 20-30A, and the OEM one kinda looks the same so maybe it is. Maybe.

Rick

 

[HISSIN50]

This is dead on. To help clairify...

Adding extra fog light load (amps drawn) is worthy of consideration.

However, all the load concern is in the wiring between the foglights and the relay, the relay itself, and the wiring to the fuse in the engine compartment, the fuse (20A), and the wiring to the battery. This fog light switch mod will only draw 1/4A extra from the parking light circuit and is fine. No matter how much load is on the foglights, the parking light circuit will still only draw 1/4A when they are on. The fog light switch only ever passes or conducts 1/4A, it only turns on a relay. It does not pass all of the current from the foglights.

Back to the issue of extra load. The main issue is the wiring to the foglights from the relay. 110W in a 12V system is about 10A. I don't know what AWG the wire is from the relay to the lights... I wouldn't want 10A on an 18AWG wire, 16AWG would be better. So if it's 16AWG or bigger (bigger AWG = smaller numbers), then you're probably fine on the wire part. The relay is probably rated for more than 10A, but I don't know. It could be rated for 10A, though... Perhaps a dealer could verify this. I'd want the relay to be rated for at least 20A if the load is 10A. Most automotive relays (Bosch style) are 20-30A, and the OEM one kinda looks the same so maybe it is. Maybe.

Rick

Rick, nice synopsis on the top-part of this post - very easy to understand (clarity is not one of my strongpoints). And thanks for clarifying the clock pod illumination - it would suck to tap into a dimmed wire and I simply couldnt remember how it was.

I'm a little confused about the concern about the fog light draw. Is Juiced adding brighter fog lights (more wattage)? Otherwise, the stock wiring is sufficient - nothing has changed from the relay's NC terminal outward (toward the bulbs). If he had added more wattage (new zillion-watt bulbs, etc), then we'd want to consider upgrading to a more appropriate AWG for the relay-to-fog lights pathway.

Did I miss something - it wouldn't be the first time.

 

[rockin_rick]

When I read that he had 110W of foglights, I guess I assumed that he had additional/upgraded lights. The stock fog bulbs are 37.5W each for a total of 75W. Now I wonder... What's with the 110W juiced?

Also, thinking about the load of the fogs, I forgot that there is 2 wires going to each side, so the wire would only see half the load, which would make 5A, and 18AWG acceptable. However, there must be some point in the harness where it is just 1 wire (before the splice), and it must carry the full load...

If it is only 75W, then the load would be 6.25A (@12V), and 18AWG is OK. (FWIW - IMO, I consider 7A the max for a 18AWG wire.)

Rick