? about putting Welds on my car w/ 3" studs

Roush21

New Member
Dec 31, 2003
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Ok i have bought the M/T Et streets for when i go to the track and I was going to buy the Weld Xp's (prostar) and I m pretty sure that I need or should put on the 3" studs so I get more threads right? Well question is can I put my other 17" wheels back on with the 3" studs w/o a problem??? Also how hard is it to change the studs because a guy told me the other day they have to be drilled out and then to put a new set in you might have to take out the axles? Is this true? I always thought it was just a simple wheel swap to put the wheels/slicks on and then I was told to get the 3" slicks or they would fall off and do tons of damage....so I thought I would have to change the studs everytime i change the wheels and this guy is saying thats LOTS of work and that i may even need to get the axles out to do this and i definetly dont wanna do that so anyone know if I can use the 3" studs for the 15x8 prostars and then put my 17's back on w/o changin or w/o problems???? Thanks in advice I know this is long put I need the info fella's
 
This will probally be no help for you, but I put my welds on and in the back there were plenty of threads left.. way more then the front.. As long as there is no rule at the tracks that say you need new studs.. (Las Vegas Motor Speedway has never called me on it) Also I run the same tire you have. ...the ET Street There might be differernt rules regarding that tire compared to a true slick.

I guess what I'm saying is just buy the rims and put em on, you shouldn't have any problem with the studs in the back if you get a 5.5 backspacing!
 
Highroller said:
This will probally be no help for you, but I put my welds on and in the back there were plenty of threads left.. way more then the front.. As long as there is no rule at the tracks that say you need new studs.. (Las Vegas Motor Speedway has never called me on it) Also I run the same tire you have. ...the ET Street There might be differernt rules regarding that tire compared to a true slick.

I guess what I'm saying is just buy the rims and put em on, you shouldn't have any problem with the studs in the back if you get a 5.5 backspacing!


Ok so the 5.5 backspace is enough??? Also does anyone know anything about taking off the quad shocks??? And what the heck is a quad shock anyway?
 
Yeah, if you get the 5.5 backspacing for the back, you will not need new studs in the back

I have new studs for the front, but I still haven't put them on yet. I know there was like 7 threads showing on the front so for now I'm not worried, I will eventually get those new studs put on in front!!
 
Highroller said:
Yeah, if you get the 5.5 backspacing for the back, you will not need new studs in the back

I have new studs for the front, but I still haven't put them on yet. I know there was like 7 threads showing on the front so for now I'm not worried, I will eventually get those new studs put on in front!!


Cool thanx alot man...definetly glad to here i can use the stock studs!~
 
I hope you are not gonna run stock axles\rear with slicks and a blower.They wont last.

To properly install 3" studs the axles should be removed.At that time it would be a bad idea to upgrade the axles themselves.

3" studs will work with the stock wheels (except those with center caps covering the lugs).You cant see mine on the cobra r's unless you really look.
So swapping wheels is no big thing.
Tracks require ANY car running slicks to have 3"studs.Just because you havent got called out doesnt make it safe.
 
If you havent bought wheels yet then maybe you should look into a differnt brand, atleast a drag wheel. them prostars will need 3 inch studs to be track legal with slicks, not to mention safe. just know that the rule is the stud must thread into the hex part of the lug atleast a 1/4 inch. stock studs will work if you use wheels like convo's or magnums or even some center line billet's. The rear axles have a common studs size so no drilling will be necesary if the correct studs is used. the fronts may require drilling but the correct studs are now avalible for a direct fit, but not the same studs front to back.
 
white99gt said:
I hope you are not gonna run stock axles\rear with slicks and a blower.They wont last.

To properly install 3" studs the axles should be removed.At that time it would be a bad idea to upgrade the axles themselves.

3" studs will work with the stock wheels (except those with center caps covering the lugs).You cant see mine on the cobra r's unless you really look.
So swapping wheels is no big thing.
Tracks require ANY car running slicks to have 3"studs.Just because you havent got called out doesnt make it safe.


Hmmmm??? I m confused....I know the stock axles werent the best idea in the world but budget is kind of tight right now. Ok so I will go ahead and buy some aftermarket axles like mosers or strange or something and will just have them come w/ 3" studs. You note that to install 3" studs the axles need removed, so if I was going to remove the axle i sure as hell wouldnt wanna put the stock ones back in...but you say it would be a bad time to upgrade the axle itself?why? There would be no point on installing the studs on my stock axles obviously because I am runnning ET streets and a blower right? I havent bought the wheels yet but I am dead set on running the Prostar XP's so if I gotta get the studs w/ axles then I have to....what about highroller's car? his car doesnt have studs and his car looks good and says he doesnt have any probs. with it? im a little confused now...anyone w/ more info pleeze help! thanks
 
3" studs are required (although overlooked most of the time) when running a weld wheel and slicks.

The good news: pick up a pair of cheap 15X7" v6 mustang wheels and avoid all the bs.

Mike
 
Mike Bresette said:
3" studs are required (although overlooked most of the time) when running a weld wheel and slicks.

The good news: pick up a pair of cheap 15X7" v6 mustang wheels and avoid all the bs.

Mike


Yuck you'd never catch me w/ ugly V6 wheels on my Cobra :nonono: I'll just get the new axles w/ 3" studs already installed...Im running some Eagle 5 stars cuz I think they look better than the Cobra R's so I traded them in and they dont have covers over the lugnuts so I should be good right? :shrug:
 
Highroller said:
A drag Radial (ET STREET) is not a slick in their eye

I didn't realize that...if you can get away with it it's your choice. I've heard and witnessed people lose wheels before due to short studs on sticky tires.

Mike
 
Mike Bresette said:
I didn't realize that...if you can get away with it it's your choice. I've heard and witnessed people lose wheels before due to short studs on sticky tires.

Mike

I can imagine loosing a wheel in the front.. but the back??? I mean It took me 10 minutes just to tighten them up.. I had probally a good 15 threads :shrug:

I'm sure there is a rule for a reason, If I ever switch to a true slick I now know I need 3" studs in the back also! :nice:
 
Highroller said:
I can imagine loosing a wheel in the front.. but the back??? I mean It took me 10 minutes just to tighten them up.. I had probally a good 15 threads :shrug:

I'm sure there is a rule for a reason, If I ever switch to a true slick I now know I need 3" studs in the back also! :nice:


Hey Roller you using stock axles? Cuz i want to try and get away w/ stock axles until next year...I probably only take it down the track 30-40 times a year at the very most and thats if i went every weekend....so far ive only been down about 15 times in the last 3 years so.... I saw taht your getttin a blower and i was told not to use stock axles w/ a blown motor and slicks? Im having trouble affording the stuff i get now so im trying to manage everything within the next 2 years instead of just this one. Anyone else who has opinions on this PLEASE don't hold back! Thanks
 
I do have stock axles, but I don't have a stick car... I can tell you I have over 100 passes, most of them are leaving on the unit on an Drag radial (not a true slick) I cut many 1.8 lights and have never broke an axle...

I think its much easier on my drivetrain due to the auto, compared to leaving at 5000 rpm's