AC Compressor smoking

you need to replace that thing ASAP cause if it really decides to go it will shred your drive belt.........as far as damage to the compressor itself i dont know but the pulley and engagement clutch are completely out.... my suggestion is to just replace the whole unit

vld said:

thanks. smoking has stopped. i hope thats a good thing. i'll update.

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you should have replaced the clutch at the first sign of trouble. It will run way hot when slipping, and ruin the front compressor shaft seal so that you get to replace the whole thing. You can buy a new one from advanced for $166 (clutch and compressor). It isn't that hard to replace, just make sure that you measure the oil in the old compressor and put that much plus 2 oz into the new one, or else tell the shop that will do the evacuation/recharge to put in that much oil. Otherwise you might get to replace it a second time...

The clutch is a pretty easy replacement. The compressor is pretty easy although you have to remove the nuts, then the studs, to get it out. The studs fortunately have either a torx or a hex head so you can get 'em out with a small socket...

vld said:

hyatt,
you said that the compressor is not hard to replace. I read that I will need a seperate compresseor to bleed and recharge the system, is that right? I have a small air compressor, could that be made to work?

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The compressor is simple enough. Here's a basic step by step...

1. remove the serpentine belt.

2. remove the compressor clutch connector which is on the compressor.

3. Remove the nuts on the compressor bolts. Easiest from the bottom with the car up on ramps or jack stands.

4. Before going any further, locate the bolt that holds the two freon lines on the compressor. It goes thru the aluminum block that presses against the compressor. On that block there is a bolt into the side. Remove this carefully and hold a measuring cup underneath to catch any oil that drains out. Then loosen the other bolt 5-6 turns and the freon line block will pull away from the compressor and slide off the bolt (if you completely remove the bolt you won't hurt a thing either).

5. You will notice that the compressor won't come out because of the studs. Remove them with either an internal torx or hex socket that fits. They come out pretty easily. Once you remove the last one, while either holding the compressor with the other hand or with a helper, the compressor will fall out.

6. Take the old compressor, hold the freon ports over the same measuring cup and drain any oil that is present. You can turn the compressor by hand to assist. Get as much out as you can and be sure to capture it in the measuring cup.

7. Look at the cup and note how many ounces of oil came out. Get some PAG compressor oil at any parts store and clean out the measuring cup thoroughly. Put that much clean/fresh PAG oil into the cup and add 2 oz more. Slowly pour this into the freon port on the suction side (you can look at the freon lines to figure out which this is, it is the one opposite the side that goes to the condenser coil up front.) Get all the oil in there and then slowly turn the compressor by hand at least a dozen revolutions. Go slow and don't blow the oil out.

8. Take the plastic freon port cover that came on the new compressor, put it back on for a bit, and set the compressor down on the clutch/pully. This lets oil drain down to the front of the compressor and wet the front seal so that it won't leak when you charge the thing. Let it sit for 10 minutes or so.

9. Now you start undoing what you did above. Hold the compressor up to the block, thread in the studs, then connect the freon block being sure you get it seated properly (new compressor came with new oring(s) already installed so you are set there). Now put the nuts back on, connect the clutch wire, and install the belt.

10. Now you need a vacuum pump, not another compressor. You pull a 30" or better vacuum for 30 minutes. This will boil off any moisture in the system as well as get the air out. After 30 minutes no moisture will be left. Close the gauge valves, turn the pump off and see if the vacuum holds steady for at least 5 minutes. If not, find the leak and fix it before going any further. Otherwise, charge it with the indicated amount of Freon (I think it is 34 ounces, which is just under three full 12 oz cans. The extra 2 oz will not hurt if you just put three cans in. You are set.

If you don't have the vacuum pump, you can either buy one (100 bucks and up) or take the thing to a shop, which will charge you 100 bucks and up to evacuate and recharge.

It really is not that hard, it just takes some time...

BobHyatt said:

you should have replaced the clutch at the first sign of trouble. It will run way hot when slipping, and ruin the front compressor shaft seal so that you get to replace the whole thing. You can buy a new one from advanced for $166 (clutch and compressor). It isn't that hard to replace, just make sure that you measure the oil in the old compressor and put that much plus 2 oz into the new one, or else tell the shop that will do the evacuation/recharge to put in that much oil. Otherwise you might get to replace it a second time...

The clutch is a pretty easy replacement. The compressor is pretty easy although you have to remove the nuts, then the studs, to get it out. The studs fortunately have either a torx or a hex head so you can get 'em out with a small socket...

Click to expand...

+1
I had this on an old Volvo I used to have.
I was driving home in the middle of the winter in the dead of night and I smelled somthing *toasty* coming from the car.
I pulled over, opened the hood and the A/C clutch-pulley was so hot it was cherry red!!!

I could not believe the belt had not melted through.

Fortunately, it worked ok after I turned the defroster off and I made it home.

I replaced the clutch assembly and the car ran fine until I sold it.