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AC HELP!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jacob_Royer
  • Start date Start date Jul 14, 2008

Jacob_Royer

Member
Nov 24, 2007
142
1
19
Jul 14, 2008
#1
  • Jul 14, 2008
  • #1
Anyone have a pic of were the orfice tube is located on these things?? (96 gt)

thanks!
 

rabidscoobie

10 Year Member
Jun 21, 2007
616
12
48
College Station,TX
Jul 14, 2008
#2
  • Jul 14, 2008
  • #2
It should be on one of the metal lines connecting to the accumulator/dryer,cant remember if its the inlet line out output line,I think its in the line on the firewall side.If you dont know what the dryer is,its the can looking thing on the passenger side next to the firewall about the sixe of a coffee can.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,144
17,839
224
Massachusetts
Jul 14, 2008
#3
  • Jul 14, 2008
  • #3
It's the line that runs from the condensor in front of the radiator down the passenger side of the engine bay to the accumulator bottle on the firewall.
 

Hardtop68

Founding Member
Aug 23, 1999
193
1
16
Wherever they need me
Jul 14, 2008
#4
  • Jul 14, 2008
  • #4
The orifice tube is on the liquid line... it is not replaceable unless you modify the liquid line...

Check this thread I posted some info about this matter:

http://forums.stangnet.com/755522-c-compressor-replacement-questions.html
 

Jacob_Royer

Member
Nov 24, 2007
142
1
19
Jul 15, 2008
#5
  • Jul 15, 2008
  • #5
Hmmm.. When i bought the car the AC didnt work and i checked it and it was low on freon... I topped it off and i had ice cold ac for a day! next day it didnt work checked the pressure... it was fine! compressor kicks on kicks off kicks on kicks off thats all it does.. tried adding a wee bit more freon and it still did the same thing.. Im thinking... pressure switch or clogged orfice tube?? what is involved with changing the pressure switch on these cars?
 

Mike97gt

it doe snot
Founding Member
Jan 26, 1999
10,633
7
89
the people's republic of massachusetts
Jul 15, 2008
#6
  • Jul 15, 2008
  • #6
If the orifice tube is pluged you will get abnormal presures..

since the presures are fine I would look at the cycling switch.. but it would not be a bad Idea and seperate the line and check the orifice for debris..
 

blacksheep-1

Member
Oct 21, 2006
322
4
18
Jul 15, 2008
#7
  • Jul 15, 2008
  • #7
I just went through some of this on my father in law's car, excellent call on the replacement piece for the liquid line orifice tube.
 
B

BobHyatt

New Member
Aug 7, 2007
378
1
0
Jul 15, 2008
#8
  • Jul 15, 2008
  • #8
Jacob_Royer said:
Hmmm.. When i bought the car the AC didnt work and i checked it and it was low on freon... I topped it off and i had ice cold ac for a day! next day it didnt work checked the pressure... it was fine! compressor kicks on kicks off kicks on kicks off thats all it does.. tried adding a wee bit more freon and it still did the same thing.. Im thinking... pressure switch or clogged orfice tube?? what is involved with changing the pressure switch on these cars?
Click to expand...

You need to hook up a set of guages and look at liquid and suction pressures. If the orifice tube is blocked, suction pressure will be low and pressure line may be high (or not). Also you need to verify that the blend-air door is moving and that it isn't stuck in a partially-open mode where some of the cabin air goes through the heater core making it look like the A/C is not working properly.

If compressor is kicking on and off, it doesn't sound like a plugged orifice tube. Is the drier cold to the touch?
 

Mike97gt

it doe snot
Founding Member
Jan 26, 1999
10,633
7
89
the people's republic of massachusetts
Jul 16, 2008
#9
  • Jul 16, 2008
  • #9
BobHyatt said:
You need to hook up a set of guages and look at liquid and suction pressures. If the orifice tube is blocked, suction pressure will be low and pressure line may be high (or not). Also you need to verify that the blend-air door is moving and that it isn't stuck in a partially-open mode where some of the cabin air goes through the heater core making it look like the A/C is not working properly.

If compressor is kicking on and off, it doesn't sound like a plugged orifice tube. Is the drier cold to the touch?
Click to expand...

to add to this, is the compressor short cycling? by that I mean cyling off after about a second if it is then most likely you are low on freeon and have a leak.

BTW good call on the blend door I have seen that burn people.
 

Hardtop68

Founding Member
Aug 23, 1999
193
1
16
Wherever they need me
Jul 21, 2008
#10
  • Jul 21, 2008
  • #10
Check the A/C with the engine cold... if the problem is the blend door, the A/C will work OK for a short while until the coolant gets hot...
 
B

BobHyatt

New Member
Aug 7, 2007
378
1
0
Jul 21, 2008
#11
  • Jul 21, 2008
  • #11
svttech76 said:
to add to this, is the compressor short cycling? by that I mean cyling off after about a second if it is then most likely you are low on freeon and have a leak.

BTW good call on the blend door I have seen that burn people.
Click to expand...

Friend got burned with the blend air door. Bought a Taurus SHO at a used-car lot (bad idea) during the very early spring. Salesman told him "only problem is it needs a new thermostat, it is stuck open and won't produce any heat in the car." Friend bought it, hook, line and sinker. Turns out the blend air motor electronics were bad. Door would just oscillate from hot to cold. Previous owner found the connector behind the glove box and randomly disconnected it until it happened to stop on "cold" where it was left (worked fine for the summer). Needless to say, an expensive repair that had nothing to do with a stuck coolant thermostat.
 
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