AC LINE + HEADER = PROBLEMS

Bosko5.0 · Jan 12, 2007

the header is touching the ac line

A TIGHT FIT!

but other than that it looks good

know heres all the problems Ive come up against: and solution

header touching ac line=???
header close to starter= wrapped starter with header wrap
header touching shifter linkage= bend linkage
x brace wont fit back on (driver side)=???
BBK O2 extensions wont fit= rewire stock o2s to lenght
egr tube cracked=???
O2s wont fit in collectors= move O2s to h pipe

but other than that it looks good
I know why the mustang has alot of low end torque!

mustang6tee8 · Jan 12, 2007

First of all- great lookin' headers!

As for the A/C line, unbolt the bracket and try to route it over the header. I know there isn't much slack, but there may be enough to raise it up 2 or 3 inches.

Bosko5.0 · Jan 12, 2007

i will try

its mostly a hard line that goes from the firewall too the ac radiator or what ever its called in front of the radiator.

Bosko5.0 · Jan 12, 2007

Can I take the tube off and flip it over since I have the disconnect tool?

mustang6tee8 · Jan 12, 2007

The "A/C radiator" is called a 'condenser' (takes the hot gas from the line on the driver's side, goes through the condenser, liquifies as it is cooled, then goes onto the evaperator on the other side of the firewall). As for taking it off- you "can" disconnect it, but refrigerant would go everywhere and make a mess unless you drain the system first, which takes a while and is pricey. SO... my answer is no, I wouldn't take the line off. First try to move the line. If worst comes to worst, you could always have a longer line made that would run in an arc over the header area.

MustangGT95 · Jan 13, 2007

I was about to ask what headers they were. So I steered clear of them lol.

But LT's are usually a pain. But sweet none the less.

trav_19 · Jan 13, 2007

heres your egr tube http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/iwwida.pvx?;item?item_no=LRS-9477A 1&comp=LRS

Bosko5.0 · Jan 13, 2007

they are BBK ceramics but if you noticed that there is a AODE in there thats why theres so many problems.they are nice looking headers, and they should fit the
T-5 alot better since a stick isnt as fat as an auto.

95cobraguy · Jan 13, 2007

why wont the o2's fit in the collectors? i would not recommend moving them to the h pipe.

GRGT1994 · Jan 13, 2007

mustang6tee8 said:
First of all- great lookin' headers!

As for the A/C line, unbolt the bracket and try to route it over the header. I know there isn't much slack, but there may be enough to raise it up 2 or 3 inches.

That's what I did. That line is fairly bendable. Just dont go too wild moving it up, and try to make sure when bending it that you dont end up putting all the pressure on one spot (so you avoid a kink and crack)

BTW, on my T5 the only fit issues I ran into were the AC issue and the EGR no longer could connect (because of the smog lines). It's good to see that you can shoe horn those into and auto too.

Kpmonti · Jan 13, 2007

I put the BBK long tubes on mine over chrismas, have been driving with the header right up against the A/C line for a few weeks now, no problems so far. I have to say they were a @&$%^@*(( to install. I've pulled engines out of cars faster.

mo_dingo · Jan 14, 2007

What I would do is take a arc clamp (or a.k.a. loom clamp) and raise the a/c line until it clears and screw it to the side of the engine compartment. Some aluminum tape should be applied to the tube before to help insulate the a/c line from all of the heat.
Scott

Bosko5.0 · Jan 15, 2007

i didnt think about that it also has to clear the cai but iam going to try some thing today.

ProKiller · Jan 15, 2007

holy crap a new EGR pipe is expensive! i would just delete the thing if you don't have to pass emissions. That's my project for this weekend.

so I've been told this fits like a glove:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MRG-1517&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Bosko5.0 · Jan 15, 2007

wouldnt deleting the egr give me bad gas mileage?

also couldnt i just make my own egr tube?

mo_dingo · Jan 15, 2007

Bosko5.0 said:
wouldnt deleting the egr give me bad gas mileage?

also couldnt i just make my own egr tube?

No, and yes, respectively. The computer uses the O2 sensors to calculate a/f ratios and they will compensate.

You can make your own tube if you have a bender for that thick of tubing and a flare tool. That would be the best way IMO. I am sure any good plumbing fitting store should have the right threads. I don't know the threads on the EGR but the threads on the header are M22 I believe. Do a search and you should find them, as I specifically posted them a few months ago.
Scott

Bosko5.0 · Jan 17, 2007

heres some update pics
i Wrapped the starter just to be safe

I moved the ac line up 2"

I bent the brace some with heat and a press

i have about 3/8" between the brace and the exhuast do you guys think i should increas the distance or should that be fine?

mustang6tee8 · Jan 17, 2007

Congrats on the A/C line. 3/8" is good clearance for parts that don't move. But you have to remember your engine rocks whenever it's revving. It might be close, but I'd make sure it doesnt hit.

On another note...what brace is that, where did you get it from, and does it help much?

Bosko5.0 · Jan 18, 2007

iam thinking that i might need to make the distance to 1/2" to 3/4" just to be safe

the brace is stock its only on the verts since they dont have much bracing above.

mustang6tee8 · Jan 18, 2007

Bosko5.0 said:
iam thinking that i might need to make the distance to 1/2" to 3/4" just to be safe

the brace is stock its only on the verts since they dont have much bracing above.

1/2"-3/4" would work very well.

AC LINE + HEADER = PROBLEMS

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