ac sadan compressor conversion.......????????

streetgrande69 · Jun 20, 2004

so, who has done it? what year/car is it off? and are there any electrical issues? what clutch, pulleys to use?

how about the bracket......

pics/info please!!

WORTH · Jun 20, 2004

All AC compressors are virtually the same, as well as AC clutches. Your only concerns are that the belt width is the same as your drive pulley and that you line it up correctly so it doesn't wear the belt.

Your old setup has a flat plate bracket, so it is very easy to make an adapter to mount any other compressor on.

The only other issue is the fittings, Oring fittings and flare fittings look similar but will not interchange withut changing the fittings out. If your not sure which is which, have somebody check it for you. If your compressor has the wrong fittings, they can be changed easily, and you should be able to get them at any Napa or Car Quest, around here they are usually ovenight because they don't stock any odd fittings.

PS; one thing I forgot to mention is I would stick to the old York type compressor unless you are concerned with weight, they are a much better unit than the sandens.

flyer351 · Jun 20, 2004

WORTH said:
PS; one thing I forgot to mention is I would stick to the old York type compressor ..., they are a much better unit than the sandens.

I didn't realize this. I've always thought the sandens were more effecient and smoother. Have I been wrong this whole time? I'm looking at finding a new mustang so would one that already has a sanden conversion be less desireable?

DarkBuddha · Jun 20, 2004

WORTH said:
All AC compressors are virtually the same... one thing I forgot to mention is I would stick to the old York type compressor unless you are concerned with weight, they are a much better unit than the sandens.

Well, not quite... Its actually a bit more complicated than this. Sure, the Yorks are excellent, capable compressors, but only for R12. They're also not particularly good about handling regular high rpm usage.

Sandens, on the other hand, handle head pressure better, thus making them better for 134a and higher rpm situations. The also are significantly smaller and supposedly take less power to turn.

All of that said, if you're going to stay with R12 and don't regularly spin your motor to 6500 rpm, I think a York compressor is still the way to go. They're still relatively inexpensive compared to a new Sanden SD508 (which is around $170 new). I went with the Sanden because I wanted 134a and didn't have a/c originally, so I was doing everything new from scratch.

Hope this helps.

WORTH · Jun 20, 2004

I'll agree that the sanden will take less HP to run, however I don't by the r134a bit, We are getting consistently lower pressures with 134 then we were with R12. Even with the same condensers. They kept telling us we would have to use larger condensers for the 134 but I still haven't seen that yet. Unless it's only showing up where it's real hot. Because around New England I haven't seen a problem.

DarkBuddha · Jun 20, 2004

I worked for C & M Core distributors, a major automotive heating and a/c parts supplier in Florida, as a counter sales person for a couple years while I was in college. This was in the mid-90s, when R12 prices shot through the roof and 134a conversions were just really coming into regular practice. From the hundreds of a/c shops, repair shops, garages, etc., we heard of problems with high head pressures, blown compressors, and poor temps because of lousy condensors. Of course, our usual peak period was summer, which is when we heard most of these problems, so I suspect it probably had something to do with the sustained periods of 90+ degree days.

I still think if you're gonna do 134a and you don't already have a York compressor or mounting bracket, then just go with the Sanden. Otherwise, there is nothing wrong with the Yorks.

bnickel · Jun 20, 2004

if you stay with r-12 the york will freeze your ass off. i live in west texas where it regularly gets around and over 100* it has been in the upper 90's and low 100's all month and it's not even july yet, i'm keeping my york compressor. nuff said

Loup-garou · Jun 21, 2004

The York is a fine, durable compressor design. However, I believe that problems concerning crankshaft seal design and material have turned up when running R-134a refirigerant. There was a York model which was designed for the new refrigerant - possibly for a medium-duty truck application. It's not identical to the old York design, but perhaps some of that model's parts might be used to make the classic York compressors more "R-134 friendly".

I'd cruise the message board over at http://www.aircondition.com and see what those guys have to say on the subject.

GaPonyFarm · Jun 21, 2004

For my 2 cents worth. I changed over from the York to the Sanden (polished) and never looked back. Its lighter, more efficient and much better looking. My application is a '66 coupe and I got everything I needed from Classic Auto Air....I'm also running an R134a system.

DarkBuddha · Jun 21, 2004

BTW, I got my Sanden (non-polished) and mounting bracket from www.southernrods.com. The compressor was $170, and the mounting bracket was $90. The bracket is simple enough, and the compressor is easy enough to mount, that fab'ing up an adapter for an original mount or a completely new bracket.

streetgrande69 · Jun 21, 2004

Well, awesome info so far guys.

I think the saden compressor is the way to go for me. I currently have no a/c in my car, so I’m starting from scratch. i already have the lower dash, the evap housing, and all the brackets(for the York).

From what i can tell, the adaptor bracket is pretty simply to make, or I might just buy one, looks like the saden is fairly cheap too. I contacted classic auto air in fl, they are sending info, catalog and what not.

This way I can use my factory controls, my lower dash, factory louvers and their compressor, and hoses.

I’m going to use r134.

DarkBuddha · Jun 21, 2004

Sounds like you're doing like I did, stock stuff in the interior, but new stuff up front (compressor, condensor, etc.). The only hassle I've run into so far is that I've got a leak somewhere in the lines or fittings. BTW, if you haven't already, rebuild the entire underdash part of the system now... new heater core, seals, etc. The evaporator cores are usually pretty damn good, but heater cores are notorious for leaking. I think CAA can test yours if you're concerned about its status.

Good luck with the install!

66sixstang · Sep 13, 2006

Sanden AC conversion

I've got a '66 coupe, 6 cylinder with factory air. I've talked with Classic Auto Air about the Sanden conversion. I'm going to replace my factory condensor because the glue that holds the cooling fins on has failed and two rows of fins are falling out. I noticed when I took off the 90 degree elbow there was a good bit of black residue that came out when I cleaned it out. It was still open to flow through though it was dirty. So, I'm wondering how dirty or clogged the inside of the factory evaporator is. An AC mechanic told me the only way to flush it, however they do that, is with the system connected. Anybody else dealt with this or wondered about it?

Thanks,

Phil

jbuening · Sep 20, 2006

Here is a link that has some nice and cheap A/C hoses if you do go through the Sanden conversion.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/67-6...hZ019QQitemZ8063126289QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

He has all three hoses, FYI. I found a Sanden SD7H15 compressor on ebay for around $80. It was new in the box and someone didn't need it. They are all pretty much universal, except some are made for R12 and some are made for R134a (oil that they put in it, which can be changed). Hope this helps.

ac sadan compressor conversion.......????????

streetgrande69

WORTH

flyer351

DarkBuddha

WORTH

DarkBuddha

bnickel

Loup-garou

GaPonyFarm

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DarkBuddha

streetgrande69

DarkBuddha

66sixstang

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jbuening

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