Accident: V6 and V8 front lower control arms the same?

[topless67stang]

I got in an accident a month ago (crazy drivers here) and I'm trying to fix it on a budget as I'll sell the car in about 5 months. I'm living in the Middle East right now, Navy guy in Bahrain. My car is a 98GT.

The front passenger side wheel caved inward on the top, damaged fender, broken cowl, cracked windshield and two messed up rims.

I got the bodywork done, and new struts as it was caved in.

The garage said they wouldn't know what else was wrong until they got the wheels replaced and new struts.

Well, now the passenger side is tilted in on the top more than the driver side, and the passenger side wheel is almost 1 inch further back towards the rear of the car. I didn't see any apparent damage to the control arm or spindle, but I want to replace them. I looked at the K-member bolts and it was obvious the K-member moved. Looks like I can loosen the bolts and push the passenger side forward and the driver side back about 1/2 inch. Well, I loosened the bolts and couldn't move the K-member so well.

Ohh, they did an alignment the best they could, and it pulls to the right some.

Anyways, I just need the lower control arm now and I'm buying the part on Ebay.

Are V6 and V8 control arms the same? I see some listings where the seller says only for a V6 car, and the control arm price is much lower.

Thanks

 

[SaleenGT2001]

get a set of MM camber plates. you can fix the camber (leaning in at the top) and the caster (wheel sitting too far back) with them.
the adjustment range is pretty big with the MM plates.

if you can post up a copy of your alignment specs i can most likely tell you if you have a bent a arm by the numbers

 

[topless67stang]

get a set of MM camber plates. you can fix the camber (leaning in at the top) and the caster (wheel sitting too far back) with them.
the adjustment range is pretty big with the MM plates.

if you can post up a copy of your alignment specs i can most likely tell you if you have a bent a arm by the numbers

Thanks, I didn't think about the caster could make the wheel sit further back.
My driver side wheel has about 3 1/2 fingers clearance from the tire to the
back of the fender well. The passenger side barely has 2 fingers clearance.

I looked at the bolts in the K-member and it was obvious it moved.
The rear holes in the K-member are slotted and it was pushed back all the way on
the passenger side and pushed all the way up on the driver side.
Tomorrow I will try squaring up the K-member.

Over here in Bahrain, the mechanics are somewhat shaddy, most of them do an alignment without a computer. After I think I have everything set right, I'll find a place that does use a computerized alignment.

I added a pic of the K-member bolt on the passenger side, and a pic of most of the damage

 

[SaleenGT2001]

the caster is causing your pulling issue.

find a place that has a laser alignment system. i would look for a Hunter alignment machine.

get a printout and post up and i can tell you if the plates will fix your problems

 

[SaleenGT2001]

is the tire still sitting like it is in that pic?????????????

that is at least 3* negative camber!!

 

[topless67stang]

is the tire still sitting like it is in that pic?????????????

that is at least 3* negative camber!!

I'm going to try and push the passenger side of the k-member forward and the driver said back today.

The wheel isn't that bad right now. They tried to adjust the alignment and that's the best they could do. I actually won some of the BBK Gripp caster camber plates on Ebay, they are used but look fine. I probably won't see those for 10 days though, I am living in the Middle East right now. I'm also looking at buying a caster/camber gauge.

I should have my new spindle in next week, that should help. I'm trying to find a cheap deal on a lower control arm right now too.

I don't plan on bringing the car back to the US, because it takes so long to ship and I don't feel like making my car emissions legal again. The locals like my car here and I can get a little extra for selling my car here anyways. I have guys asking to buy my car all the time, some say I'll go get the money and come back, no need to test drive. I can't believe some guys look at the outside of the car and say I know it's a good car, no need to test drive.

I'll take a pic of the way the wheel sits now.

 

[topless67stang]

I managed to push the K-member on the passenger side up maybe 4 or 5 mm.
I haven't drove it yet though. I wanted to push the driver side back some, but I couldn't find a
place to wedge a pry bar in. It's only easy to move it forward. On the driver side I can see the slots for the 2 rear K-member bolts, and the K-member is as forward as it can possible get.

I should have a spindle and caster/camber plates in late next week and see what that does.

 

[rjs281]

Did moving it help with the wheel location in the fender? Think i might have a problem like this.

 

[topless67stang]

Did moving it help with the wheel location in the fender? Think i might have a problem like this.

I think I gained about 1/2 an inch. Before I could only fit 2 fingers between the tire and the rear part of the fender well. Now I can fit about 2 3/4 of my fingers.
I can fit almost 4 fingers on the driver side though.

Now, I have to double check, but maybe the passenger fender is more forward than the driver side. But I don't think so.

I'm waiting for some parts so I can change the spindle and lower control arm. I'll also have some cast camber plates too.

My car still pulls to the right when I drive.

I seen other people post saying they had a similar problem.

 

[rjs281]

I think moving the k member might make you need a new allignment. I have CC plates and still have the same problem with the pass. side being further back than the drivers side. Was in a wreck 2 years ago and when my car was fixed is when this got this way on mine.

 

[SaleenGT2001]

moving the K member will deff require an alignment.
just wait till you get the plates on to get it done

wheel looks better. just post or PM me the specs after it's finished

 

[topless67stang]

moving the K member will deff require an alignment.
just wait till you get the plates on to get it done

wheel looks better. just post or PM me the specs after it's finished

Alright, the specs are as follows.

RF-
Caster +3.0
Camber -2.65

LF
Caster +4.0
Camber -2.25
I didn't try to measure toe-in

The passenger side front wheel sits about 5/8 inch back towards the rear of the car, and the car pulls to the right when driving.

On the passenger side it looks like the guys that tried to align the car maxed out
the factory camber plates, and it's still way off.

I have a new spindle now, but I'm waiting for a control arm and the new wheel hub, which will be in soon. I also received the BBK caster camber plates.

Hopefully changing those parts help. If I was in the US I'd get a new or used K-member too.

In the end, if I can't get it to drive straight, I'll try to find someone here that can do a computerized alignment, or check the frame.

 

[rjs281]

I managed to push the K-member on the passenger side up maybe 4 or 5 mm.
I haven't drove it yet though. I wanted to push the driver side back some, but I couldn't find a
place to wedge a pry bar in. It's only easy to move it forward. On the driver side I can see the slots for the 2 rear K-member bolts, and the K-member is as forward as it can possible get.

I should have a spindle and caster/camber plates in late next week and see what that does.

How did you move the k member?I need to do this to and need an idea on how it would done.

 

[StangYellow]

99-04 lower arms are different for v6/v8.