Adjustable Strut Rods Mustang

HistoricMustang said:
Why? Performance wise I see nothing. Braggin' Rights, perhaps some good conversation.



Why?
For optimum performance!
By installing these, Your freeing up the movement you want,
and lock out the movement you dont want.
And Especially for the more positive caster you can aquire by running these.

:banana:
 
HistoricMustang said:
Why? Performance wise I see nothing. Braggin' Rights, perhaps some good conversation.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com




If you had a set on your car, your lap times would be quicker. If you still use a rubber perch, that too is slowing you down. Facts are facts. I'm all for old school stuff but rubber pivot points are for street cars with no performance driving intended. The strut rod, spring perch, lower arm and idler arm should all have a bearing at the pivot points in my opinion to get the most from the car.


John
 
68rustang said:
Arguing with Historic never gets anybody anywhere.



I know it, he has his own way of doing things and his car is fast the way it is. Some new tech. never hurt anyone. Going from rubber pivot points to bearing is something the vintage racers do. I see it at Laguna Seca a lot and it does work. Looking under vintage Mustang racers is where I got my ideas for the stuff I make.

John
 
Yal seem pretty offended about the subject. The way I see it, one side of the strut connects solidly to the lower control arm, the other side is bolted and adjusted to the frame in a manner in which flex is possible. With the aftermarket rods I see, they are connected in the same manner with the adjustment in the center rather than on the ends. I guess I'm just not seeing it, I don't have any experience with strut rods. ??
 
streetstang67 said:
Yal seem pretty offended about the subject. The way I see it, one side of the strut connects solidly to the lower control arm, the other side is bolted and adjusted to the frame in a manner in which flex is possible. With the aftermarket rods I see, they are connected in the same manner with the adjustment in the center rather than on the ends. I guess I'm just not seeing it, I don't have any experience with strut rods. ??


if you've ever watched a strut rod cycle through it's range of motion you'd understand. the rubber bushing puts the end of the strut rod in somewhat of a bind as it cycles and the strut rod will actually flex, that flex will eventually lead to breakage on a car that is driven hard, it also allows fore and aft movement of the strut rod wich cause other issues such as camber, caster and toe movement of the suspension, which is not good. the aftermarket rods with a bearing instead of rubber greatly reduce all of the above if not plain eliminating it. the car will be more stable, and react better with bearings in all the spots that opentracker mentioned. historic is a good guy, but he's really set in his ways and he tends to set people off because he comes across pretty egotistical sometimes, but he does mean well.
 
streetstang67 said:
Yal seem pretty offended about the subject. The way I see it, one side of the strut connects solidly to the lower control arm, the other side is bolted and adjusted to the frame in a manner in which flex is possible. With the aftermarket rods I see, they are connected in the same manner with the adjustment in the center rather than on the ends. I guess I'm just not seeing it, I don't have any experience with strut rods. ??

Pretty good stuff and I certainly see your points.

Having said that, I again caution against using aftermarket or homemade product for suspension components unless they are inspected on a daily basis. Track cars are inspected after each session so have fun. Others, beware of bending, cracking, slipping and worst of all breaking.

I also still remain in the "camp" that feels way too much attention is focused on the front suspension of the early models. It is much simplier to get the rear end around (controlled of course) than to keep "tweeking" the front. I stress again, "loose is fast" - anyone with enough seat time will agree. Ideal is "neutral" but that is not going to happen in an early model.

Thanks and Happy Motoring,

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

P.S. Trying to be a "kinder and gentler" HistoricMustang so that is it for me on this subject. I care not who agrees or disagrees - it is your butt.
 
I've been talking with their tech guy allot lately. He told me they're allmost done. they're doing away with the heim joint and going with more of a spherical type ball joint?? that will allow up and down and some side to side movement. Supposed to be the new ' hot ticket'. Im curious to see what it looks like and see what their claims are.

There's another one in the works that is also allmost done. Being built by a few drag racers. This one is more 'top secret', and is supposed to be like no other. they're working on a patent before they can announce it. I guess there's some new technology going into this one.
I dont know what else can be put into these parts, they seem pretty simple and straight forward, but we'll have to wait and see.
 
grego37 said:
I've been talking with their tech guy allot lately. He told me they're allmost done. they're doing away with the heim joint and going with more of a spherical type ball joint?? that will allow up and down and some side to side movement. Supposed to be the new ' hot ticket'. Im curious to see what it looks like and see what their claims are.

There's another one in the works that is also allmost done. Being built by a few drag racers. This one is more 'top secret', and is supposed to be like no other. they're working on a patent before they can announce it. I guess there's some new technology going into this one.
I dont know what else can be put into these parts, they seem pretty simple and straight forward, but we'll have to wait and see.


RRS already has a strut rod that uses a sperical bearing. in case anyone wants to know
 
Yet another Adjustable strut rod!

RRS offers an adjstable strut rod that replaces the stock rubber with a spherical bearing. The kits are offered for both '65-'66 and '67-'70 Mustangs the '65-'66 kit comes with a new rod while the '67-'70 uses your exisiting rod. both bolt into the stock existing hole and both kits even include a drill bit.

check them out at www.rrs-online.com
 
I got a set of Global West's performance strut rod bushings and I am very happy with the way they really improved my handling. I still would like to get a set of adjustible strut rods, but it will be a while before I have 300 dollars to drop on a set.
 
streetstang67 said:
Yal seem pretty offended about the subject. The way I see it, one side of the strut connects solidly to the lower control arm, the other side is bolted and adjusted to the frame in a manner in which flex is possible. With the aftermarket rods I see, they are connected in the same manner with the adjustment in the center rather than on the ends. I guess I'm just not seeing it, I don't have any experience with strut rods. ??

Rubber deflects and as a result caster changes, especially when hard on the brakes. The aftermarket rods use a heim joint for the front pivot rather than a cheesy rubber donut. I dont see whats so hard to understand. If Historic wants to be stubborn and not try the obvious I guess thats his perogative, but opentrackers right.