Adjusting valves with lower intake on...any tips? Also cap & rotor questions...

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"
Founding Member
Aug 7, 2002
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Well early this next week I'm going to readjust my valves, put on new valve covers and fix the oil leak, putting new cap, rotors, and spark wires and plugs, pcv valve, filter, grommet, etc...

I was just wanting any tips on readjusting the valves with the intake on...I guess it is obviously the same way with the lower intake off...just a bit harder because of lack of room...

Do I wait till I feel the "slightest" of resistance or what before I torque it down after zero lash...I also make the locking adjusting nuts till I hear a "crack" sound right?

As silly as it sounds...is their anything I need to remember when changing the cap and rotors? Certain positions etc...how much do I torque the rotor down to...inch lbs?
 
Actually if there isn't any Rocker noise theres really no need to Re-Adjust them (Assuming they are Hydraulic Lifters) Solid's are a bit more Finicky, If they were all adjusted right from the first time with "0" Lash and then Tightened 3/4 of a turn your good to go, for many miles.
As for the Rotor-Cap the Rotor is just a simple push-on-pull off type theres nothing to it.
 
STINGREY said:
DUDE;you should have pedestal mount rockers,non adjustable.

I have stud mounted roller rockers...my heads aren't stock...

I'm going to readjust the valves while I'm replacing the valve covers (I've did them before...it is easy...)...and plus I'm going to back off a few of the studs to readjust a few of my guideplates so I feel more comfortable when hitting higher rpms...

I have turned mine 1/2 turn? There is valvetrain noise and it sounds like an even sound through out...what would it do if I put it to 3/4...

So is it when I feel the slightest of tension when twirling it with my fingers?
 
Don't worry so much about the zero lash point - just rock the rocker with one hand and turn the bolt with the other. As soon as you can't rock it anymore because there's no gap on either side (valve or pushrod) you're at zero lash. Count your turns from there -- with stud mount there's no torque to measure. If you're looking for a different result - gotta try something different. I'd fire it up and get things good and warm, and go through them with it warm. Perhaps you can try between 1/2 and 3/4 turns (uh, that'd be 5/8ths).