advantages and disadvantages of coilovers
- Thread starter ThePumpkin
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No disadvantage what-so-ever. Front tire clearance can be a slight issue when running 17X9 wheels and 275 series tires, but all-in-all its not a big deal and a small spacer can usually fix it. I would look at a quality coil-over kit from MM before I'd buy the UPR setup. I've run both the strange and MM coil-over setups on my cars and the MM setup is the best I've seen. I have no rattles/noises and I run a very stiff setup with them.
95riosnake
Member
+1 on going with a higher end kit. I have heard that the UPR kit rattles a lot over bumps. MM is great like Paul said, I run Team Z which is another option.
I love coil overs, I can set the ride height EXACTLY where I want, and I really liked having my choice of spring rate. I'm going to be converting to coil overs out back to match my front setup soon.
Bosko5.0
Active Member
Other then price theres no cons.
Pros are lighter, adjust ride height, many spring rates.
MM c/o with bilstiens
Pros are lighter, adjust ride height, many spring rates.
MM c/o with bilstiens
You don't need 4 bolt Caster Camber plates. As long as they are steal and not aluminum, you're fine.
I want to know more about this tire clearance issue. I'm probably going to run fox control arms to tuck the front tires in a little bit.
Kurt
I want to know more about this tire clearance issue. I'm probably going to run fox control arms to tuck the front tires in a little bit.
Kurt
moosetang408w
New Member
I have the cobra 17x9 rim on the front and I did the koni struts with steeda coil over kit. I had to put a wheel space in because my tire was just touching the coil.
Of course you don't NEED 4 bolt C/C plates, but it is best and would be wise to used them. All of the weight of the front of the car including any cornering and spring tension forces is now being held by the C/C plates instead of the K member. The stronger the better
I'm not convinced the 4 bolts are any stronger. It's probably just a gimic to be honest with you. More likely the metal will twist, or the bearing will pop on it before the bolts do. They are only a strong as their weakest point.
Kurt
i agree with the weakest point comment but 3 bolts still gives you a weak spot on that missing bolt area and allows more chance for warping. at least thats the way i look at it.
thanks for the fast response... I have 17x9 in front currently with 235s stretched on them and it's time for new tires... whats the widest you suggest without having to use a wheel spacer? or am I already screwed because they are 9" rims..
what size tire are you running? and are you satisfied with the results of your setup? AND, If you could go back, would you rather do a smaller rim to avoid the use of a wheel spacer?
That was another question I had.. thanks
_Thomas
I'm also going to be getting tubular a arms and k-member... I noticed that I can purchase a-arms without brackets for the front swaybar. Aside from shedding a few pounds, what's the advantage of running no sway bar???
This car will be driven on the street fairly often....
This car will be driven on the street fairly often....
If that's the case then leave the swaybar. It is tubular and doesn't weight that much....13lbs I think with brackets and endlinks
The only other advantage (if you want to call it that) is that it will allow the front body of the car to raise more on launch before actually starting to lift the control arms/wheels to help weight transfer. I don't think it's worth it on a street driven car. Many people will disconnect the end links from the control arms when they get to the track to get the same effect. Both of mine still have the swaybar and I keep it attached when at the track. But then I also don't do any weight reduction and like to run the car at the track in street trim
xr8d302
I bought a 27" monitor to compensate for my lack o
What he said...reference the swaybar....just keep the bar on and disconnect the end links if you're looking for better weight transfer at the strip.
The spring rate should be chosen by your main purpose for the car. If you intend on spending most of your time at the track, a 200lb spring would be a better option, whereas if you intend on hitting roadcourses on the weekend, a 375 or 400lb spring would be a good option
I run 300lb springs on my Granatelli C/O's, with tubular K and Control Arms.... I think the weight savings are enough to offset the 351's extra weight, so i'm back to square 1 or nearby
The spring rate should be chosen by your main purpose for the car. If you intend on spending most of your time at the track, a 200lb spring would be a better option, whereas if you intend on hitting roadcourses on the weekend, a 375 or 400lb spring would be a good option
I run 300lb springs on my Granatelli C/O's, with tubular K and Control Arms.... I think the weight savings are enough to offset the 351's extra weight, so i'm back to square 1 or nearby
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