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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

advantages and disadvantages of coilovers

  • Thread starter Thread starter ThePumpkin
  • Start date Start date May 11, 2010

ThePumpkin

New Member
Jan 26, 2009
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Missouri
May 11, 2010
#1
  • May 11, 2010
  • #1
Im considering getting UPRs full coilover setup...

talk to me.


thanks,
_Thomas
 

Killercanary

The car that set the bar.
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
5,676
1
76
Altoona, PA
May 11, 2010
#2
  • May 11, 2010
  • #2
No disadvantage what-so-ever. Front tire clearance can be a slight issue when running 17X9 wheels and 275 series tires, but all-in-all its not a big deal and a small spacer can usually fix it. I would look at a quality coil-over kit from MM before I'd buy the UPR setup. I've run both the strange and MM coil-over setups on my cars and the MM setup is the best I've seen. I have no rattles/noises and I run a very stiff setup with them.
 

Venom351R

Founding Member
Apr 27, 2002
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May 11, 2010
#3
  • May 11, 2010
  • #3
I have the strange coil overs going on next week
 

95riosnake

Member
Dec 21, 2003
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Pittsburgh, PA
May 11, 2010
#4
  • May 11, 2010
  • #4
Killercanary said:
No disadvantage what-so-ever. Front tire clearance can be a slight issue when running 17X9 wheels and 275 series tires, but all-in-all its not a big deal and a small spacer can usually fix it. I would look at a quality coil-over kit from MM before I'd buy the UPR setup. I've run both the strange and MM coil-over setups on my cars and the MM setup is the best I've seen. I have no rattles/noises and I run a very stiff setup with them.
Click to expand...

+1 on going with a higher end kit. I have heard that the UPR kit rattles a lot over bumps. MM is great like Paul said, I run Team Z which is another option.

I love coil overs, I can set the ride height EXACTLY where I want, and I really liked having my choice of spring rate. I'm going to be converting to coil overs out back to match my front setup soon.
 

Bosko5.0

Active Member
May 18, 2006
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37
longwood, FL
May 11, 2010
#5
  • May 11, 2010
  • #5
Other then price theres no cons.

Pros are lighter, adjust ride height, many spring rates.

MM c/o with bilstiens
 

Last5.0

Active Member
Nov 9, 2003
404
1
26
May 11, 2010
#6
  • May 11, 2010
  • #6
Don't forget that for strength and safety to run 4 bolt aftermarket Caster Camber plates when running fron coil overs
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
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May 11, 2010
#7
  • May 11, 2010
  • #7
You don't need 4 bolt Caster Camber plates. As long as they are steal and not aluminum, you're fine.

I want to know more about this tire clearance issue. I'm probably going to run fox control arms to tuck the front tires in a little bit.

Kurt
 

Venom351R

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#8
  • May 11, 2010
  • #8
Kurt I'll let you know how mine turns out. I run 255's on the front
 

moosetang408w

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Jul 13, 2005
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Alberta, Canada
May 11, 2010
#9
  • May 11, 2010
  • #9
I have the cobra 17x9 rim on the front and I did the koni struts with steeda coil over kit. I had to put a wheel space in because my tire was just touching the coil.
 

Last5.0

Active Member
Nov 9, 2003
404
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May 11, 2010
#10
  • May 11, 2010
  • #10
Of course you don't NEED 4 bolt C/C plates, but it is best and would be wise to used them. All of the weight of the front of the car including any cornering and spring tension forces is now being held by the C/C plates instead of the K member. The stronger the better
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
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May 12, 2010
#11
  • May 12, 2010
  • #11
Venom351R said:
Kurt I'll let you know how mine turns out. I run 255's on the front
Click to expand...

You going to run Fox control arms too?

Kurt
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
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May 12, 2010
#12
  • May 12, 2010
  • #12
Last5.0 said:
Of course you don't NEED 4 bolt C/C plates, but it is best and would be wise to used them. All of the weight of the front of the car including any cornering and spring tension forces is now being held by the C/C plates instead of the K member. The stronger the better
Click to expand...

I'm not convinced the 4 bolts are any stronger. It's probably just a gimic to be honest with you. More likely the metal will twist, or the bearing will pop on it before the bolts do. They are only a strong as their weakest point.

Kurt
 

ProKiller

Founding Member
Apr 26, 2002
3,064
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78
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May 13, 2010
#13
  • May 13, 2010
  • #13
revhead347 said:
I'm not convinced the 4 bolts are any stronger. It's probably just a gimic to be honest with you. More likely the metal will twist, or the bearing will pop on it before the bolts do. They are only a strong as their weakest point.

Kurt
Click to expand...

i agree with the weakest point comment but 3 bolts still gives you a weak spot on that missing bolt area and allows more chance for warping. at least thats the way i look at it.
 

Venom351R

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#14
  • May 13, 2010
  • #14
revhead347 said:
You going to run Fox control arms too?

Kurt
Click to expand...

No they are the 94/95 A arms
 

1slow95

Founding Member
May 16, 2002
1,797
3
48
ohio
May 13, 2010
#15
  • May 13, 2010
  • #15
What's a good spring rate to go with? I was thinking 350# or 375# when I eventually switch to coil overs.
 

ThePumpkin

New Member
Jan 26, 2009
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Missouri
May 14, 2010
#16
  • May 14, 2010
  • #16
Killercanary said:
No disadvantage what-so-ever. Front tire clearance can be a slight issue when running 17X9 wheels and 275 series tires, but all-in-all its not a big deal and a small spacer can usually fix it. I would look at a quality coil-over kit from MM before I'd buy the UPR setup. I've run both the strange and MM coil-over setups on my cars and the MM setup is the best I've seen. I have no rattles/noises and I run a very stiff setup with them.
Click to expand...


thanks for the fast response... I have 17x9 in front currently with 235s stretched on them and it's time for new tires... whats the widest you suggest without having to use a wheel spacer? or am I already screwed because they are 9" rims..


moosetang408w said:
I have the cobra 17x9 rim on the front and I did the koni struts with steeda coil over kit. I had to put a wheel space in because my tire was just touching the coil.
Click to expand...

what size tire are you running? and are you satisfied with the results of your setup? AND, If you could go back, would you rather do a smaller rim to avoid the use of a wheel spacer?

1slow95 said:
What's a good spring rate to go with? I was thinking 350# or 375# when I eventually switch to coil overs.
Click to expand...

That was another question I had.. thanks




_Thomas
 

ThePumpkin

New Member
Jan 26, 2009
55
0
0
Missouri
May 14, 2010
#17
  • May 14, 2010
  • #17
I'm also going to be getting tubular a arms and k-member... I noticed that I can purchase a-arms without brackets for the front swaybar. Aside from shedding a few pounds, what's the advantage of running no sway bar???
This car will be driven on the street fairly often....
 

Last5.0

Active Member
Nov 9, 2003
404
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May 14, 2010
#18
  • May 14, 2010
  • #18
ThePumpkin said:
This car will be driven on the street fairly often....
Click to expand...

If that's the case then leave the swaybar. It is tubular and doesn't weight that much....13lbs I think with brackets and endlinks

The only other advantage (if you want to call it that) is that it will allow the front body of the car to raise more on launch before actually starting to lift the control arms/wheels to help weight transfer. I don't think it's worth it on a street driven car. Many people will disconnect the end links from the control arms when they get to the track to get the same effect. Both of mine still have the swaybar and I keep it attached when at the track. But then I also don't do any weight reduction and like to run the car at the track in street trim
 

xr8d302

I bought a 27" monitor to compensate for my lack o
Apr 29, 2004
1,113
0
36
Medicine Hat, AB
May 14, 2010
#19
  • May 14, 2010
  • #19
What he said...reference the swaybar....just keep the bar on and disconnect the end links if you're looking for better weight transfer at the strip.

The spring rate should be chosen by your main purpose for the car. If you intend on spending most of your time at the track, a 200lb spring would be a better option, whereas if you intend on hitting roadcourses on the weekend, a 375 or 400lb spring would be a good option

I run 300lb springs on my Granatelli C/O's, with tubular K and Control Arms.... I think the weight savings are enough to offset the 351's extra weight, so i'm back to square 1 or nearby
 

ThePumpkin

New Member
Jan 26, 2009
55
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Missouri
May 16, 2010
#20
  • May 16, 2010
  • #20
Does the way the car drives feel any different?
 
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