Advice, $800 to spend

DRock9 · Jan 3, 2007

I recently came into some money, and I was going to do nitrous but my Dad threatened to take my car away since he legally owns it. The mods I have now are in my sig and I am wondering what I should do next, and I have some ideas but everything must total below $900. I would like the best straight line performance possible without sacrificing any cornering, I can deal with how it handles now.

I was thinking of getting the MM SFC's, Strut Bar, and K-member brace plus a 75mm MAF and 75mm TB but I wasn't sure how soon I will need to upgrade to anything above 19lb'ers...IF i do HCI it wont be for a very very long time.

I was thinking that I could swap the MAF/TB for gears +install instead and I might go that route.

I was also trying to find a package that would incorporate new rear suspension, upper control arms and lower control arms from Team Z but that will be about $550 in itself.

You people know a lot better about me and I don't want to go spending $800 on something that wont get me going any faster, this is a DD street car that will see very minimal track time if any at all. I have about $1,500 in cash but I would like to save some of it and put it into my bank account.

Thanks a lot for any guidance!

Wicked65 · Jan 3, 2007

900 to spend, and your asking for straight line?? well, i would say UPR full length sub frames for sure, no matter what else you do, huge difference in stiffness. also, get the battery relocation kit from upr, thats like taking 100lbs off the front. You can also get the upper and lower control arms from upr, id say unless you know how to adjust things. which it doesnt sound like your there yet, id get the regular ones. Strange adjustable shocks for the rear are also a good idea. with stock springs. and if ya got some left over, go for the strange adjustable front struts. I would stay away from the strut tower brace if you are looking for drag, because it is for corners. If ya need any more ideas, let me know.

DRock9 · Jan 3, 2007

Thanks, ill go check out UPR but i usually only buy the best of everything so ill probably end up going MM.

1SLO306 · Jan 3, 2007

go idea to do suspesion first. its dont matter how much power u have, if u dont have traction its useless. I would do the SFC's like mentioned above, new springs, shocks ect. This will make a wonder of difference and should get u into the mid 13's if done right. oh and some gears out back. i would prefer 3:73 cause i had 4:10's and was at very top of 4th with the tremec 3550.

txstang84 · Jan 3, 2007

+1 more for suspension and chassis stiffening...by the time you do end up owning the car, the chassis will be stiff enough for the increased power you'll no doubt put into it.

txstang84 · Jan 3, 2007

The MAF and TB aren't bad ideas though...it'll be there for later at least...start perusing eBay, and I'm sure you'll find some for a decent price.

tording · Jan 3, 2007

You could also do some junkyard upgrades for very cheap. Do a 130 amp 3G alternator and an electric fan off of a taurus or Mark VIII. Also some underdrive pullies are a nice upgrade for more power. If your going to run an underdrive pully on alternator you need the 130 amps. These things will not only help make more power but will overall help the car. The stock alternators are barely big enough to power the stock car and stereo. You could also go with a 3 core radiator from like pep boys or autozone. They are very nice for a cooling upgrade along with the electric fan.

txstang84 · Jan 3, 2007

tording said:
You could also do some junkyard upgrades for very cheap. Do a 130 amp 3G alternator and an electric fan off of a taurus or Mark VIII. Also some underdrive pullies are a nice upgrade for more power. If your going to run an underdrive pully on alternator you need the 130 amps. These things will not only help make more power but will overall help the car. The stock alternators are barely big enough to power the stock car and stereo. You could also go with a 3 core radiator from like pep boys or autozone. They are very nice for a cooling upgrade along with the electric fan.

good call-hadn't even thought of charging system upgrade, you'd be well served with it, especially with underdrives.

JChalfan · Jan 3, 2007

I'd probably start with gears. Most people say 3.73's, which is probably the best choice. I've only ever had 3.55's since I've always gotten a good deal on them, but if I went out and bought new gears, they would be 3.73's.

Maybe put new clutches in your posi while you're in there...

Jeff

DRock9 · Jan 3, 2007

I thought about doing the 3G and underdrives but i read some of Daggars posts and he said they could give you like 3HP to the wheels at the most so I dont think I will be doing that.

I just came to a conclusion on the way home from dropping off the GF and realized that I am trying to build a track car but I never go to the track, as much as most of you hate me saying this most of my racing is done on the highway from a roll so correct me if im wrong but suspension wont do anything really since im not losing any traction.

I thought about getting new brakes for the front, rotors/calipers/pads the whole shibang but its expensive.

I still need to ponder some, whatever it is gears and SFC's will probably be involved with it.

EDIT: I've been tossing around the idea for an upper/lower intake but I figured I couldn't get one that would match my stock RPM band well enough so it wouldn't run to its full potential till I got heads and a cam...which probably wouldn't come for a long time. Maybe I could get an intake and cam but I dont think that I could install the cam myself, seeing as I cant pull the engine.

billison · Jan 3, 2007

I say subframs and maybe heads if you can find a deal

ozanracing · Jan 3, 2007

Gt40 heads used, tfs 1 cam, used cobra intake. DUH.

tording · Jan 3, 2007

The point of the 3G alternator is not so much making more power with the upgrade but it is a total upgrade for the entire car. Your headlights will no longer dim at night and you will not go through batteries and alternators all the time like you probably do now. Not to mention later on when you start doing other upgrades the alternator will help with that like if you ever do ignition or bigger fuel pump. All that stuff requires juice and the stock charging system just won't supply it.

hdawg06 · Jan 3, 2007

http://www.jdsperformance.com/index.asp?initemuid=298&fcmd=item&inmake=0

Those are some pretty decent upper and lower control arms from what I have read and heard about them. They would give you some traction help, but it seems that you don't do much but rolls.

I would suggest doing full length subframe connectors for sure, and then maybe gears. Gears are something that won't help near as much from rolls though. Although, they make the car feel a LOT more powerful from 0-60mph. Maybe with the roll racing do a trickflow cam/intake and then buy some gt40 heads used? That would give you quite a bit of power for not a huge budget, and then when you do plan on doing nitrous you will be set.

Just a thought, but maybe some Welds with skinnies up front and MT ET Streets in the rear? The rims can be seen here. Those look MEAN on foxs in my opinion, and it would reduce some weight for you as well.

txstang84 · Jan 3, 2007

tording said:
The point of the 3G alternator is not so much making more power with the upgrade but it is a total upgrade for the entire car. Your headlights will no longer dim at night and you will not go through batteries and alternators all the time like you probably do now. Not to mention later on when you start doing other upgrades the alternator will help with that like if you ever do ignition or bigger fuel pump. All that stuff requires juice and the stock charging system just won't supply it.

+1

Another thing about "freeway" racing...it's highly discouraged-ahem, ok, now that the public service announcement is over...

You should do some things to the suspension for any type of spirited driving. High speeds demand better compliance, better directional stability, and good grip. I'm sure I'm not the only guy ever to experience how "light" the front end of a Mustang gets at sustained speeds exceeding 100mph. Good bushings, proper suspension setup, good camber/caster angles...it all plays together for good stability whether your setting up for road racing, autocross, street driving or drag racing. The stock stuff is sufficient, but you'd still find it in your interest to increase it's abilities.

Wicked65 · Jan 3, 2007

another thing to remember is UPR is all Chrome molly stuff. Its really strong and light. MM is mild steel. heavy, heavy in comparison. It all adds up in the end.

thojoewen86 · Jan 4, 2007

go for the 3.73's first. I second the subframes and dont forget about a good shifter and control arms. If you dont have the money for the control arms left over, at least change out the bushings.

ozanracing · Jan 4, 2007

I stand by my first post.

hdawg06 · Jan 4, 2007

thojoewen86 said:
go for the 3.73's first. I second the subframes and dont forget about a good shifter and control arms. If you dont have the money for the control arms left over, at least change out the bushings.

He has a MGW, no reason to swap out shifters.

old_blue · Jan 4, 2007

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