Advice for coolant system upgrade

Generik · Aug 9, 2011

Hi guys,

I recently purchased a 91 GT with a fair number of mods already installed. I've been running into issues with the car running hot and have already swapped the t-stat with a 180* model and replaced with fresh coolant and Water Wetter, but that doesn't seem to be helping. The radiator appears to be the original and looks pretty banged up on the front side, and possibly leaking near the radiator cap, so I was thinking about replacing it. The previous owner had installed Mishimoto electric fans wired to a manual switch and has the A/C on a manual switch which I have been forced to leave off to keep temps down. He also installed a stainless overflow cannister.

I was thinking about replacing the radiator and maybe going ahead and upgrading to an Edelbrock high volume water pump. Was looking at the Mishimoto radiator but I've seen some complaints here and there along with praise. So, I was hoping to get some opinion for you guys. I'm an admitted novice under the hood and am just learning and definitely appreciate any advice.

Mustang5L5 · Aug 9, 2011

Change the radiator only. Skip the water pump. All that will do is push the coolant through the radiator much too quickly to allow it to cool.

rustyruststang5 · Aug 9, 2011

i use this stuff. i have yet to see the fans kick on high from the controller and temps stay at 180-185 range.
Griffin Thermal Products 1-56272-X - Griffin Aluminum Pro Series Radiators - Overview - SummitRacing.com
controller
Spal Pulse-Width Modulated Fan Controller - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
contour v6 fans i beleave anything from 95-00 got mine from 98 at a junkyard for $40 with wiring harness. they had lots of them
http://compare.ebay.com/like/250841127837?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

2000xp8 · Aug 9, 2011

If the radiator is stock, likely you need a new one. Anything thicker will pretty much do, there are many options.

Also a member here put that fan setup on his car, had to remove it because it worked like crap.

As far as high volume water pumps, i've yet to see any street setup that required it, and that includes some pretty extreme setups.

Manual fan switches are idiotic. Either get a good controller, or just put the stock shroud and fan setup back on.

wythors · Aug 9, 2011

Install a new radiator and get rid of the redneck fan setup and you'll be golden.

Generik · Aug 10, 2011

Thanks for the info guys! I definitely agree with the sentiment about getting the fans hooked up without a manual switch. That's definitely the plan, but first I want to get everything else buttoned up since I at least know they do work as is. This does bring up a couple more questions though:

Is there a way to easily test my current water pump? I'm told that if I run the car with the radiator cap off and rev the engine I should be able to see the coolant level dip slightly. I tried this and saw no movement at all until the thermostat opened up. The car has roughly 125k miles and I don't know if the water pump has ever been changed. Most of what I have read online indicates that it will start leaking when it's time to be replaced, and that is definitely not happening. I'm just curious if it wouldn't be advantageous to swap it while I'm replacing the radiator and will already have the system drained and taken apart? I was looking at the Ford Racing stock flow pump at LRS.

wythors · Aug 10, 2011

If the thermostat isn't open, the coolant isn't going to move because it doesn't have anyplace to go. If your pump isn't leaking, don't worry about it at this point. Put in a new radiator and a stock shroud/fan/clutch set up and you'll never have to worry about it again.

Generik · Aug 10, 2011

wythors said:
If the thermostat isn't open, the coolant isn't going to move because it doesn't have anyplace to go. If your pump isn't leaking, don't worry about it at this point. Put in a new radiator and a stock shroud/fan/clutch set up and you'll never have to worry about it again.

That makes sense. These are the things I'm just learning. Thanks for the advice! Planning to order new radiator tonight. Going to give it a try with the electric fans for right now and see how it goes and then either install a controller as rustyruststang5 suggested or rip it out and go back to a more stock setup in the near future.

Generik · Aug 12, 2011

I pulled the radiator yesterday and discovered that my stang at one time had been an AOD and still had transmission cooler lines attached and crimped somewhere back behind the oil pan. All that's gone now and I am waiting on the new radiator to be delivered on Monday. After getting the radiator out, I noticed the AC condenser is really beat up and is actually what I was mistakenly thinking was the radiator when I was looking from under the front bumper. This makes me wonder if it is basically blocking the radiator from getting good airflow?

Back side of condenser

Tough to tell in this pic but there are massive areas where the fins are layed flat.

Questions... Would this affect the cooling ability of my car? I've only used the A/C once since I got the car and it works, but the temps definitely rose about a notch on the temp gauge.

Would it be worth looking in to a replacement condenser or can the fin damage be repaired similar to a radiator? I'm not opposed to just installing the new radiator and crossing my fingers that my cooling issues are solved, but if there is a better option now that I have everything taken apart, I would like to know.

90lxcoupe · Aug 12, 2011

Do you have an air deflector on the car? Its the plastic piece that hangs below the bumper

Generik · Aug 12, 2011

90lxcoupe said:
Do you have an air deflector on the car? Its the plastic piece that hangs below the bumper

That's a good question. I am not 100% sure but I don't think I do have the air deflector. How much of a difference does that deflector make?

Bryan83taco · Aug 12, 2011

Get underneath the front and check to see if you have a deflector. its a long black plastic piece on the bottom of the radiator. It hangs below the radiator and car so it "deflects" air up into the radiator. Buy a new one, hunt on down at your local scavenger yards, or find somebody parting out a fox. You definitely need it.

90lxcoupe · Aug 12, 2011

Generik said:
That's a good question. I am not 100% sure but I don't think I do have the air deflector. How much of a difference does that deflector make?

It definitly makes a difference, it will not affect the cars cooling when idling, but it keeps air moving to the radiator. I put a bumper on my car that basically covers the large lower hole in the bottor of the LX bumper so i had to go to one of these deflectors. They are stock on rangers and bronco II's and it has been working good so far. It does hang low but it is no flimsy like the factory deflector is, so it does not fold back at highway speeds

Brazeau Racing - Custom Front Air Dam

Generik · Aug 12, 2011

Bryan83taco said:
Get underneath the front and check to see if you have a deflector. its a long black plastic piece on the bottom of the radiator. It hangs below the radiator and car so it "deflects" air up into the radiator. Buy a new one, hunt on down at your local scavenger yards, or find somebody parting out a fox. You definitely need it.

I think I'm going to go ahead and order this billet air deflector from UPR and be done with it. Anyone have experience with this piece? Looks solid, just curious if there is any fitment issues to consider.

Mustang5L5 · Aug 12, 2011

First time you pull into a driveway too fast, you're gonna scrape that. Buy the factory urethane peice instead. It will give out when you hit something...which will happen.

Generik · Aug 12, 2011

Mustang5L5 said:
First time you pull into a driveway too fast, you're gonna scrape that. Buy the factory urethane peice instead. It will give out when you hit something...which will happen.

That's a great point. I would have it ripped off the first time I went into my driveway. Thanks for the help guys!

88-378 · Aug 12, 2011

aluminum rad, stock pump, spal fan and controller. works great for me.

90mustangGT · Aug 12, 2011

Yes, that condenser may be an problem if it's blocking air to the radiator. You can use a comb or even a special tool for straightening the fins. It also causes issues in the A/C system and it won't cool well with that condenser like that.

Air dam / deflector is important.

Those radiators belong in 4 cylinders. You don't need a big aluminum but they are nice. A factory replacement is usually better, especially with the "extra cooling" option or order one with the police package spec, that will more than do it.

Your waterpump is more than your car needs, even with the underdrive pulley.

The fans are fine.

Generik · Aug 12, 2011

I bought a condenser fin straightening tool from NAPA today to try and get the condenser in better shape. I'm also going to get some coil cleaner spray to get all the gunk out of there. Got a new Mishimoto radiator in the mail from American Muscle that should get here on Monday. And lastly got the air deflector and mounting hardware ordered from LRS today. So *hopefully* when I get all this in I will see a big improvement and can get the car where it belongs.. on the road.

Generik · Aug 16, 2011

Cooling may be working properly FINALLY!

Wanted to post an update. I worked the A/C condenser over with the fin straightener tool I picked up and then used some WEB Coil Cleaner on it with a thorough rinsing afterward.
Before:

After cleaning:

Popped in a new Mishimoto radiator tonight and hooked up the electric fans and it seems to be running spot on. Let it warm up and topped off after the t-stat kicked in and then took it out for a spin. I probably took it about 10 miles or so and even turned the A/C unit on (nice and cold) for the second time since owning it. Temps never got over the first hashmark. For 90% of the time the temp gauge sat just under the first hash.. after running through a drive thru and sitting at idle for about 5 minutes, it crept up to right at the 1/4 mark. 2 weeks ago doing the same drive I would have been easily up over 1/2 and starting to creep to the 3/4 mark, all the while the interior would be getting hotter under the dash. So fingers crossed... I think this may be a done deal. If everything stays as is, I will swap out the manual fan switch for a good controller like that Spal unit a few of you have mentioned.

Here's a pic of everything back together:

Definitely appreciate all the advice from you guys. That's by far the most major underhood work I've ever done and it's sweet to know I did it on my own!

Advice for coolant system upgrade

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