advice from veterans?

Drive your car a awhile, get to know it. I just put the kit you are describing in my car. The 5 leafs are VERY stiff. I needed the 620s to hold up a 429. You will find a number of people here that will tell you softer springs are the way to go...and I would agree.

What do you want you car to look like?? What do you want it to sound like. What about engine performance??

Get a final goal and work towards it, don't piece-meal your restoration.

Good Luck. There are some very knowledgable people in here.

The bigger the number the harder the spring...it takes more force to compress it.

i agree with 67, best to drive the car awhile and think about area's you want to improve. also when you finally start buying parts dont go overboard on the actual parts you buy. for example you indicated you wanted a 1 1/8" anti-roll bar. unless you are planning on going racing, that is going to be too much front bar for you application. the 1" front bar is quite adequate. as are the gt springs for the front(480lb rate). at the rear i would use some good 4 leaf rear springs like the ones mustangs plus sells, along with a 5/8" rear anti-roll bar. this will make a decent handling good riding mustang that your significant other wouldnt mind riding in.

Also, it may be wise to do some things in order of practicality, as opposed to coolness or desire, once you have adjusted to the car, even though the desire is what drives us. For example, going faster is pointless if you can't stop faster. If this is your first classic and you have 4 wheel drum brakes still, you have likely already experienced a little of the culture shock that comes along with older cars and their all but forgotten technology. Don't get me wrong, I do run my drums still with a normally modded 302 (cam, intake, carb, headers w/ dual exhaust, etc...), but I certainly don't apply the same rules I do as with a newer disc set up and I keep them well maintianed to insure dependibility. Don't get scared about drums, just be aware of their limitations.

Your ability to do mechanics as well as your cash flow will dictate most of what can do from what you may want or think you want to do or have done. Some upgrades are also very simple and can be done immediatly without affecting any current or future plans for the car and so might be a good way for you to wet your wistle and build some confidence in your skills, like say if you still have a single or dual point set up, a switch to a pertronix type electronic ignition is a general thing that anyone with any shape of running car should consider. We are all here to learn and help so ask questions when in doubt and be patient, things can and will go wrong with a 38 year old car no matter how many new parts are in it.

Good luck with the car and welcome to the hobby.

Pak.

The wisest place to spend your money is on safety. Better brakes/wheels/tires, or improved seat belts (shoulder) and seats are a good thing to upgrade. Then you can look into making it faster and prettier.

Did you swap that 302 into a 6 cylinder car? If so make sure you have upgraded the suspension components like control arms, sway bars, axles to cope with the power and weight of the V8..

Just a passing note on 620's. They may be installed (in my experience) WITHOUT a spring compresser. A simple STOMP from my size 13's puts them right on the perches.

Although 620's are shorter than stock springs, they have more capacity hence the firmer ride and "the look" that is popular with many (but not ME).

SuperDave said:

Just a passing note on 620's. They may be installed (in my experience) WITHOUT a spring compresser. A simple STOMP from my size 13's puts them right on the perches.

Although 620's are shorter than stock springs, they have more capacity hence the firmer ride and "the look" that is popular with many (but not ME).

Click to expand...

I dont' mean to hi-jack the thread but was wondering do you guys recomend using the top pad with the 620's? I bought a set from Sacramentomustang.com and it says use pad for stock height, no pad for 1in drop. I dont know how a 1in drop in front would look with a 73 mach 1 though. Thats cool you dont have to use a spring compressor usually. This was my first time changing coil springs, it had stock ones, they were a good 2in taller then the 620's but thinner and probally sagged more. I took the stock one out, that was a scarey job I kept waiting for the spring to come loose and take my head off. IM just stripping the undercoating, repainting it with POR-15 getting the surface rust off the control arms and painting them before I reinstall. As for buying 620's for your early Mustang that might be way to firm, I was told it would give my 73' mach 1 a firm ride and thats a much bigger car with a 351c.

Jim

well personally i like the firm ride in my 67 with the 620s and the five leaf rears but like everybody else has stated its not for everyone. i do like the 73s with a 1 inch drop on the nose because the body almost begs for it with the lines. Also being a heavier car with the heavier motor it will be a firmer ride but not to the point where it doesnt move like mine.

I used a very thin polyurethane pad on my springs, metal-to-metal equals squeaks in my experience.

I dont know how you get a 1" drop just from leaving the insulator out, which is a bad idea for other reasons IMO. The insulator is only about 1/8" thick IIRC.

Do the Shelby mod in the front and you will get your 1" drop.