Advice: getting ready to start up the 5.0 swap

[68converted]

I am getting ready to start up the stang after a very long project fraught with divorce, two family tragedies, and a couple of financial setbacks. I have compiled a quick list of things I think I should do, as I get ready to start it up and actual startup.

1. Check every bolt front to back for proper torque specs
2. Check every bolt again
3. Check all wiring connectors
4. Place four fire extinguishers around the car
5. Connect the battery to find any immediate shorts (knock wood)
5. Fill with fluids
6. Use drill with starter gear extension to pump up the oil
7. Turn key to on, and check for fuel pump activation
8. Check for voltage at solenoid with key on
9. Turn key... (wait... cross fingers, say a Hail Mary) ... to on

And this is where I need to know what to do;

I know that the new 1.6 roller rockers on the AFR headsmay need some adjusting. Should I wait until the car runs for some time?

If the car does start (when the car starts the first time - wishful thinking), should I just let it run?

How long should I let it run? On most of the build shows, it seems like they only let it run for a short period of time then shut it down. Why?

I have been told that the new heads and cam will need to be "broken" in using conventional oil. (the bottom end was never opened up/broken down aside from the cam), is this true? Broken in under driving conditions? or at idle, in park, revs?

Thanks for any insite or personal experience you can provide.

Best to all who have helped me on this project.

 

[BarnStang]

If it's a 5.0 roller motor, there is no break-in with the roller cam. Usually you run it for 20 min at 2k rpm then let it cool completely. First heat cycle. THen start it up an tune the carb and timing. You're EFI motor should be plug and play. Start it up. Make sure yo have good oil pressure and coolent temp stabilizes.
I'm assuming you know how to set base timing on an EFI motor? ANd there is a proceedure for setting the base idle.
Conventional oil should be refering to oil that still has the zinc additive in it. Certainly can't hurt. You can add a quart of Lucas oil. THere are others.
You're going to want to get the base timing set as soon as it starts while the computer is still in open loop. Well, you will be clearing the computer and having it relearn parameters a few times before your setteled in. Let us know how it goes.

 

[68converted]

If it's a 5.0 roller motor, there is no break-in with the roller cam. Usually you run it for 20 min at 2k rpm then let it cool completely. First heat cycle. THen start it up an tune the carb and timing. You're EFI motor should be plug and play. Start it up. Make sure yo have good oil pressure and coolent temp stabilizes.
I'm assuming you know how to set base timing on an EFI motor? ANd there is a proceedure for setting the base idle.
Conventional oil should be refering to oil that still has the zinc additive in it. Certainly can't hurt. You can add a quart of Lucas oil. THere are others.
You're going to want to get the base timing set as soon as it starts while the computer is still in open loop. Well, you will be clearing the computer and having it relearn parameters a few times before your setteled in. Let us know how it goes.

I actually am not aware of how to set base timing or idle on the EFI setup. How do you clear the computer, to have it relearn? It has been without power for over four years, so I would assume it is "cleared"? Yes/no?

 

[66forfun]

check your wiring around the exhaust, dont want anything melting. computer will be ok. 10-13 deg base for a roller if i remember right. good luck, hope she fires right up for ya.

 

[D.Hearne]

Adjust the rockers after you've pressured up the oiling system. Start with #1, get it at TDC with both valves closed. Tighten the adjuster nut till you feel resistence in the pushrod, spinning it between two fingers. When you feel resistence, tighten the nut 1/2 turn more. Rotate the crank 1/4 turn and do the next cylinder in the firing order. Repeat till you've done all 8 cylinders. Make sure you jam the adjuster nut with the poly lock set screw once they're adjusted. No breakin with a roller cam.

 

[68converted]

Adjust the rockers after you've pressured up the oiling system. Start with #1, get it at TDC with both valves closed. Tighten the adjuster nut till you feel resistence in the pushrod, spinning it between two fingers. When you feel resistence, tighten the nut 1/2 turn more. Rotate the crank 1/4 turn and do the next cylinder in the firing order. Repeat till you've done all 8 cylinders. Make sure you jam the adjuster nut with the poly lock set screw once they're adjusted. No breakin with a roller cam.

Thank you sir. I am installing the interior this weekend, as I finally finished up the underdash wiring, and little stuff that takes forever to just get done.

Thanks for the advice on the rockers. I was told that I needed to use non-synthetic oil to break in the engine, but everything I have read speaks to new pistons. Mine were left alone and only the heads, and cam were changed out. Can I just use the brand and type of oil that I will use in the end? Mobile 1 is what I have always used...

 

[BarnStang]

Mobile one should be great.
You may want to check out the EFI forum ad run a couple searches. ith basetiming, I was refering to removing the SPOUT connector (Spark OUT). THis take the computer out of the equation. Lets you set base timng. THere should be a little grey plug in the harness near the distributer. Pull this grey plug out and have your timing light ready. It's going to be simular to a carb. Need to set timing, set idle, set timing. 10 degree's is stock setting. 13 is a good starting point. I couldn't ge past 13 on my 93. SOme people get as high as 16 on the same year ca...however, if you set it to 10, you can run 87 octane gas and not have detonation...just a thought.
THere is a process to having the computer learn. It's faster to do the proceedue, but it will learn as you go. Leavig the battery disconnected for 30 min will clear the computer. You should have a scanner and know how to pull codes. Youwill want to make sure you have no fault codes, and that the computer goes into closed loop. Here is a GREAT site I used a lot wth my 93:
http://www.veryuseful.com/
There are some links in there that are a guarenteed solution to insomnia...

 

[65ShelbyClone]

If the computer is a pre-'96, then a code scanner is not needed. All that's necessary is a piece of wire and a test light. jrichker over in the 5.0 Tech forum has posted just about any kind of 5.0 EFI-related how-to that you could think of.

 

[BarnStang]

Yup, jrichker is the go to guy. Just search for all his posts and you can read for days...

 

[Hipogt]

It might seem unnecessary or a waste, but I would drain the oil (NOT the Mobil 1!)and change the filter after the initial break in. I would do this with every engine I rebuilt to make sure any fine contaminants were drained out or trapped in the filter. I realize you only did the cam and heads, but to me, $15-$20 is cheap insurance. You may also want to retorque the heads and intake after start up. Can't help with the EFI part (I'm challenged in that area) other than, as said, no high idle break-in needed for the roller cam. Good luck.

 

[68converted]

Mobile one should be great.
You may want to check out the EFI forum ad run a couple searches. ith basetiming, I was refering to removing the SPOUT connector (Spark OUT). THis take the computer out of the equation. Lets you set base timng. THere should be a little grey plug in the harness near the distributer. Pull this grey plug out and have your timing light ready. It's going to be simular to a carb. Need to set timing, set idle, set timing. 10 degree's is stock setting. 13 is a good starting point. I couldn't ge past 13 on my 93. SOme people get as high as 16 on the same year ca...however, if you set it to 10, you can run 87 octane gas and not have detonation...just a thought.
THere is a process to having the computer learn. It's faster to do the proceedue, but it will learn as you go. Leavig the battery disconnected for 30 min will clear the computer. You should have a scanner and know how to pull codes. Youwill want to make sure you have no fault codes, and that the computer goes into closed loop. Here is a GREAT site I used a lot wth my 93:
http://www.veryuseful.com/
There are some links in there that are a guarenteed solution to insomnia...

Great site!!! I will use it this week to do a few items. Thanks for the info

 

[65ShelbyClone]

TI was told that I needed to use non-synthetic oil to break in the engine, but everything I have read speaks to new pistons. Mine were left alone and only the heads, and cam were changed out.

I just caught this part. Are you saying that the shortblock wasn't taken apart, or that the engine actually was torn down completely and the pistons reused?

 

[mustang6tee8]

10 degrees is the base/stock timing for the 5.0

 

[68converted]

I just caught this part. Are you saying that the shortblock wasn't taken apart, or that the engine actually was torn down completely and the pistons reused?

The short block was not taken down, as it only had an original 48,000 miles on it. I had a guy that was an engine rebuilder in the 80's looked at it and said that it was in virtually new condition. He checked crank end play and bearings and said I would be wasting my time and money to break it down.

 

[65ShelbyClone]

In that case, there won't be much of a break-in period at all. The rings are already seated and as mentioned before, the roller cam has no break-in either. You might want to go 250-500+mi or so on some decent petroleum oil just to get any debris out from being apart, but that's about it.

 

[68converted]

In that case, there won't be much of a break-in period at all. The rings are already seated and as mentioned before, the roller cam has no break-in either. You might want to go 250-500+mi or so on some decent petroleum oil just to get any debris out from being apart, but that's about it.

That's what I thought. Thanks.