Advice please: Sad Day

[cola8d8]

After 210,000 miles the bone stock 5.0 in my '87 bit the dust (cant even turn it over with a braker bar with all accessories and starter off). What do I do? This is my only daily driver car. My first inclination is to buy a ford crate motor and be done with it... I know, from reading here that I could do better for the same amount of $$$. Car is SD now and I will convert to MAF if and probably needed, budget is not to exceed absolute limit, everything (MAF conversion included) $5000. Please understand, I want equal or more longevity out of the new motor and I would like as much increase in HP/TQ as possible without sacrificing any drivability/engine longevity. TIA for all your replies.

 

[65ShelbyClone]

I dont know of FRPP still has them, but they had stock Mustang shortblocks for something like $1500. That would at least get you on the road again.

 

[alex95621]

sad day

with 5g just buy a new 5.0, sell yours for maybe a grand or so i dunno, and get a nice one thats runs well.

 

[Asha'man]

There's a non-roller longblock, pan to valve cover, for $50 right now in my club. Look around locally, surely there's someone selling a motor. Drop that in and get the car driveable, then build the new motor on the side.

Ash

 

[NightStalkersSO]

Well the quickest thing to do will probably be to just order a ford racing long block and mass air kit, that's around 3700 dollars. You can look through a magazine for long blocks, but most places build them to spec for you and don't have them just sitting around, you never know though. 5gs to spend is a lot though....after mass air conversion kit....you'd still have over 4g for a long block...that makes for a whupass longblock

 

[Daggar]

I tend to lean to Nightstalker's way of thinking. FR longblock MAF and maybe have the main studs machined out to 1/2 in. and replace the mains with the 351 pieces. Maybe even a stud girdle as well. At least that way your bottom end will be as bullet proof as you could make it to allow for whatever you might want to add later on. You'd still be within your budget. There was an article in a recent MM&FF about the beefing up the mains. If you need, I'll find the issue and post it here.

 

[fawcett]

sorry pal, that sucks. i have the frpp 340bhp 302 in my 95gts. its ok, i think it can get my car into the high 12's on street tires with a bit more practice. the e-cam sucks down low though, no power at all, i wish i considered getting the b-cam or better yet put in a steeda #19 cam. i do think that this engine will last along time if i ever get it tuned right. i am getting a tweecer as soon as my laptop gets fixed, cant wait. oh and i shopped around and bought the motor from gerald evans ford, it was the cheapest $3k for the whole long block.
good luck bud,
fawcett

 

[65ShelbyClone]

Duh, I totally forgot about finding a used engine. Complete "running" EFI 5.0s can usually be found in the $400-700 depending on condition, at least here. Heck, you might look for a wrecked '89+ you can get the whole driveline out of then part out. The other option is a 351W....

I tend to lean to Nightstalker's way of thinking. FR longblock MAF and maybe have the main studs machined out to 1/2 in. and replace the mains with the 351 pieces. Maybe even a stud girdle as well. At least that way your bottom end will be as bullet proof as you could make it to allow for whatever you might want to add later on. You'd still be within your budget. There was an article in a recent MM&FF about the beefing up the mains. If you need, I'll find the issue and post it here.

IMO, that would be unnecessary with a production block. Main cap distortion seems to be less of a problem than splitting the block. I wouldnt go any farther than stock size studs. Just me though.