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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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AFR Install?'s

  • Thread starter Thread starter mytight95
  • Start date Start date Feb 6, 2006
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mytight95

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Apr 11, 2003
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Dothan,Al
Feb 6, 2006
#1
  • Feb 6, 2006
  • #1
1. I am curious what Gaskets are run on these... need to know intake, exhaust, and head gaskets?
2. Are there any specific kind of bolts you don't want to use on aluminum or anything like that.
3. Is the torque sequence on the aluminum heads the same as it is on the Irons, and how critical is it to ensure you don't overtorque them?

Any other Tips, do's or Don'ts will be very helpful, as i have to make sure i don't screw up the install only want to do this once....

Parts on the way:

Lifters
Pushrods 6.3 chromemoly
AFR 165cc 58cc chambers(with upgraded springs) (bowl work etc.)
PR length checker

Have to buy:

all gaskets etc.


How many of the AFR guys are running the pedestal mount heads as opposed to the stud mount heads?


suggestions/install tips etc. all welcome and thanks for looking

I hope i like these things...


jason
 

zenboy99

Founding Member
May 12, 2002
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Madison, WI
Feb 6, 2006
#2
  • Feb 6, 2006
  • #2
FPP-1250 Fel-Pro intake gasket set Summit 19.95
FPP-1415 Fel-Pro header gasket set Summit 16.95
FPP-10112 Fel-Pro Head gasket x 2 Summit 59.91

ARP-154-3601 ARP head bolts Summit 37.88

Your AFR heads will come with instructions on bolt tightening sequence. You'll need antiseize on the head/intake bolts that enter a water jacket. That can be picked up at any parts store.

Just be patient and take your time with it. Follow all instructions. Once you've had the heads off a couple of times everythings a snap.
 

mytight95

Active Member
Apr 11, 2003
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Feb 6, 2006
#3
  • Feb 6, 2006
  • #3
they've been off a few times, but i haven't ever had aluminum heads before...


jason
 

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"
Founding Member
Aug 7, 2002
9,516
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Arkansas
Feb 6, 2006
#4
  • Feb 6, 2006
  • #4
Look at the official write-up thread at the top of the 94/95 page. It has some good h/c/i write-up installs. Good Luck
 

mytight95

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Apr 11, 2003
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Feb 6, 2006
#5
  • Feb 6, 2006
  • #5
went and read that.... however you didn't say how you did the different torque sequences for the upper bolts.........

doyou get them all the torque setting of the lower bolts, and then torqu the uppers only to 80lbft or what...?


good tip on the anti seize on the washeers.....


jason
 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!
Founding Member
Jan 14, 2001
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Feb 6, 2006
#6
  • Feb 6, 2006
  • #6
mytight95 said:
went and read that.... however you didn't say how you did the different torque sequences for the upper bolts.........

doyou get them all the torque setting of the lower bolts, and then torqu the uppers only to 80lbft or what...?

jason
Click to expand...


You follow the bolt manufacturers torque specs. Using the arp bolts (154-3601) they call for 60 ft/lbs on all bolts using their lubrication. Using different lube changes the values. I went 70 ft/lbs on mine this time only because thats what my builder suggested. He also suggested a 1011-1 head gasket. I use a 1011-2 now, their .039" thick giving me a nice tight .039 quench with my 0 deck block

Have your used heads clean up milled. It doesnt cost much at a machine shop.
 

zenboy99

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Feb 6, 2006
#7
  • Feb 6, 2006
  • #7
If I remember right, its inside bolts first, then crossing over sides of the head and working your way towards the two ends of the head.

AFR probably has the sequence online.
 

final5-0

Mustang Master
Apr 6, 2003
6,817
12
79
DFW Texas
Feb 6, 2006
#8
  • Feb 6, 2006
  • #8
Use anti seize on the bolts and spark plugs you screw into the head

Grady
 

mytight95

Active Member
Apr 11, 2003
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Dothan,Al
Feb 6, 2006
#9
  • Feb 6, 2006
  • #9
Grn92LX said:
:

Have your used heads clean up milled. It doesnt cost much at a machine shop.
Click to expand...


what does this entail? do they actually remove some of the head....... They alread have 58cc's only........ i have the e7's now with 1.94 valves, i should be fine with the afr's and the 1.90's right....?


jason
 

Grn92LX

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Feb 6, 2006
#10
  • Feb 6, 2006
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mytight95 said:
what does this entail? do they actually remove some of the head....... They alread have 58cc's only........ i have the e7's now with 1.94 valves, i should be fine with the afr's and the 1.90's right....?


jason
Click to expand...

It ensures that the deck is 100% true and flat. It also gives the head gaskets something to "bite" into. A MUST do on used heads especially heads you're buying from someone over the net. I had my TW heads clean up milled before putting them on my stroker. I had over heated them once when I snapped a serpentine belt a while ago. They needed it to be 100% flat. How much smaller the clean up mill makes the chambers depends how much they needed to be milled to be 100%.
 

SVTCobra306

New Member
Oct 22, 2005
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0
Ft. Bragg, NC
Feb 6, 2006
#11
  • Feb 6, 2006
  • #11
1 cc per .006 milled

Get the FRPP Severe Duty gasket set, comes with bolts, Head Gaskets, and V/C gaskets,

Also, the 1250 may need slightly trimmed to fit the ports. They are offset a bit from a standard port.

You can also get the Fel-pro gasket set for a '94-95 Cobra, 22 bucks or so, comes with the rubber end seals and upper/lower intake gasket, if you use a Cobra lower.
 

CManT1914

New Member
Feb 5, 2004
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Killeen, Texas
Feb 6, 2006
#12
  • Feb 6, 2006
  • #12
Since you're pulling the headers off, when you put them back on, use some lock washers!! Otherwise you'll regret it if they start backing out.

(that's the only useful bit I have that hasn't been mentioned)
 

5spd GT

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#13
  • Feb 6, 2006
  • #13
mytight95 said:
went and read that.... however you didn't say how you did the different torque sequences for the upper bolts.........

doyou get them all the torque setting of the lower bolts, and then torqu the uppers only to 80lbft or what...?


good tip on the anti seize on the washeers.....


jason
Click to expand...

Jason, is this not what you needed:

Use the proper torque sequence for the heads when installing them.
If your looking down at the top of the head here is the torque sequence order:

Inside of the head (intake side)

9 5 1 3 7
10 6 2 4 8

Spark plug side

This is the tightening procedure I used on my AFR’s –
Top bolts: 30lbs, 50lbs, 70lbs, 80lbs
Bottom bolts: 30lbs, 50lbs, 70lbs, 75lbs

Further more, if this is what your after...I torqued them all down to 75ft. lbs by the sequence above. Then I just went across the top and added 5 more ft. lbs by doing every other bolt.
 

nmcgrawj

Advanced Member
Sep 28, 2003
3,651
4
68
Indianapolis, IN
Feb 6, 2006
#14
  • Feb 6, 2006
  • #14
I thought u needed a sealant on the lower bolts that went into water jackets and not anti-seize.
 

mytight95

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Apr 11, 2003
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Feb 7, 2006
#15
  • Feb 7, 2006
  • #15
5spd GT said:
Jason, is this not what you needed:



Further more, if this is what your after...I torqued them all down to 75ft. lbs by the sequence above. Then I just went across the top and added 5 more ft. lbs by doing every other bolt.
Click to expand...


the above quote is what i was asking......

IF i take them to my machine shop, and have them checked for straightness, it isn't neccessary to have them milled is it? I can clean them up with some scotchbrite or something....



jason
 

Grn92LX

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#16
  • Feb 7, 2006
  • #16
mytight95 said:
the above quote is what i was asking......

IF i take them to my machine shop, and have them checked for straightness, it isn't neccessary to have them milled is it? I can clean them up with some scotchbrite or something....



jason
Click to expand...

No its not necesary to have them milled if the deck is 100%. The odds of it being 100% true and flat are slim. Been there/done that. Like I said, a fresh milled head give the head gasket something to bite into for a better seal theoritically.

When you torque them down, you follow the arp bolt manufacturers torque specifications using their lube. Some oil or whatever you choose to use under the bolt washer and bolt head is a good idea.
 

mytight95

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Apr 11, 2003
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Dothan,Al
Feb 7, 2006
#17
  • Feb 7, 2006
  • #17
my concern is that the heads are already milled down to 58CC's, so won't cleanup milling them make them even less..... or do they not remove enough material for that......

I have the stock shortblock, how much farther can i go without having to worry about the valves hitting the pistons




jason
 

5spd GT

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Feb 7, 2006
#18
  • Feb 7, 2006
  • #18
nmcgrawj said:
I thought u needed a sealant on the lower bolts that went into water jackets and not anti-seize.
Click to expand...

Thats correct.

Antiseize was talked about by using them on the washers to keep the bolt to washer and washer to head from providing inaccurate torque readings so they don't dig into theirself when you torque them down.

mytight95 - Cool, I would just check your heads with a straightedge...you will most likely be fine for an N/A combo. Roughly .006" milled is about 1cc. (ex. 58cc to 57cc). You will have to check p-v clearance to see how much you can mill.
 

nmcgrawj

Advanced Member
Sep 28, 2003
3,651
4
68
Indianapolis, IN
Feb 7, 2006
#19
  • Feb 7, 2006
  • #19
5spd GT said:
Thats correct.

Antiseize was talked about by using them on the washers to keep the bolt to washer and washer to head from providing inaccurate torque readings so they don't dig into theirself when you torque them down.
Click to expand...


Thats what i thought, i just saw that it was said it was needed for head/intake bolts that run into the water jacket....when antisieze wont do anything to seal out water.
 

zenboy99

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Feb 7, 2006
#20
  • Feb 7, 2006
  • #20
Oops, thanks for clarifying guys.
 
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