Aftermarket Clutch/Flywheel SERIOUS shiftin/drivability problems..Any1 else have/had?

Undisputed · May 5, 2010

Anyone installed and aftermarket clutch/flywheel then couldn’t shift fast, or even past around 5,000 rpms without grinding the syncros to death? The car was 100% perfect, we changed the clutch to a Spec Stage II + and matching flywheel, the break-in was perfect, and then once it was time we discovered that it is IMPOSSIBLE to shift fast, forget about powershifting or shifting anywhere near redline… The shifter feels physically as if you aren’t even stepping on the clutch and you are yanking it out of gear and trying to cram it into the next gear.. I have read that this is the answer - Installing a RAM Clutches Hydraulic Clutch Release - Moment Of Release - Muscle Mustangs And Fast Fords Magazine and I have also now just heard that this is the answer - CHE K-Member Brace with Engine Torque Limiters Mustang (05-10 GT)

Does anyone know what will fix this problem, my car has had this problem since about 5,000 miles…it’s a 2010 GT and I need this problem solved, and so do many other suffering from the same issue!!

Undisputed · May 5, 2010

If there is anyone that has had this issue, and actually fixed it, I would be really happy to hear it..with my car approaching the 500RWHP mark, shifting 1-2 and 2-3 like im driving a semi is getting pretty old..lol

walter · May 5, 2010

Hope someone will chime in. I have a McLeod lightweight flywheel that'll go in mine as soon as the clutch tanks so hopefully this isn't a widespread issue.

Back@itagain · May 6, 2010

I'm running a Ram PowerGrip with a PRW billet steel flywheel and have the same problem. I thought maybe the additional heat from L/Ts might have been allowing the OEM hydraulic line to swell. I switch to the FRPP braided clutch line, better brake fluid and prothane motor mounts. I hate to tell you but this isn't the answer but it may help you with the process of elimination. Next up is an easy fluid change. I don't have very high hopes but its the last I can do without having to shell out more coin.

Undisputed · May 6, 2010

Back@itagain said:
I'm running a Ram PowerGrip with a PRW billet steel flywheel and have the same problem. I thought maybe the additional heat from L/Ts might have been allowing the OEM hydraulic line to swell. I switch to the FRPP braided clutch line, better brake fluid and prothane motor mounts. I hate to tell you but this isn't the answer but it may help you with the process of elimination. Next up is an easy fluid change. I don't have very high hopes but its the last I can do without having to shell out more coin.

I was jsut about to order the mounts and "torque limiter brace".. I guess that woudl have abeen a fail... I have been going nuts over this, and it;s making my car a fu*kin pain now that I have serious power, but have to shift like a truck driver... I was told by Brenspeed that I should just pull the trans and buy a BRAND NEW OEM slave cylinder/release bearing and put it back together, they said they have heard of this problem alot, but IT IS NOT THE FACT THAT THE SLAVE/RELEASE CANT RELEASE A HI PERF. CLUTCH SETUP, It's that the stock one failed.. my car has only 12,000 miles, and it was perfect @ 8,000 when I swapped out the clutch, but i DID NOT CHANGE THE SLAVE/RELEASE so I'm going to go for it and say fu*k it, I cant go through this season w/ 500+ hp and having to shift like I have a huge trailer being pulled behind my semi...lol

Back@itagain · May 6, 2010

Undisputed said:
I was jsut about to order the mounts and "torque limiter brace".. I guess that woudl have abeen a fail... I have been going nuts over this, and it;s making my car a fu*kin pain now that I have serious power, but have to shift like a truck driver... I was told by Brenspeed that I should just pull the trans and buy a BRAND NEW OEM slave cylinder/release bearing and put it back together, they said they have heard of this problem alot, but IT IS NOT THE FACT THAT THE SLAVE/RELEASE CANT RELEASE A HI PERF. CLUTCH SETUP, It's that the stock one failed.. my car has only 12,000 miles, and it was perfect @ 8,000 when I swapped out the clutch, but i DID NOT CHANGE THE SLAVE/RELEASE so I'm going to go for it and say fu*k it, I cant go through this season w/ 500+ hp and having to shift like I have a huge trailer being pulled behind my semi...lol

Im right there with ya! It is very aggravating to go for second and grab a hand full of teeth. I will probably run this season as is but would definitely like to know how this works out for you!

I still think the engine mounts are a good idea for reasons other than attempting to cure the lazy shifting tranny. It does reduce the slop in the drive lines and is noticeable in the 2-3 shift.

Keep us posted on your progress!

Undisputed · May 7, 2010

Back@itagain said:
Im right there with ya! It is very aggravating to go for second and grab a hand full of teeth. I will probably run this season as is but would definitely like to know how this works out for you!

I still think the engine mounts are a good idea for reasons other than attempting to cure the lazy shifting tranny. It does reduce the slop in the drive lines and is noticeable in the 2-3 shift.

Keep us posted on your progress!

I'm ordering the slave next week...I figure, pull the trans, put in the new slave, and bleed it and hope for the best... And yeah, I'm going to get the motor mounts and torque limiter, that will def help the driveline doing "stunts" under hard driving..lol

Undisputed · May 10, 2010

Just Ordered a brand new Ford OEM Slave/Release, and a brand new Ford Racing Roller Pilot Bearing.. should have them in and installed in a week or so...Lets see if this fixes it...

053vstang · May 13, 2010

Please keep us posted.

NastyStang113 · May 13, 2010

Undisputed. I tried to help you in your other thread but you seemed reluctant to take my advice, even though I went through it and have a perfect shifting car now. I see you order a new OEM slave cylinder. I thought you said that was the issue and the OEM slave cylinder just didn't work because it doesn't work fast enough at those RPMs, etc. I'd inspect your clutch and flywheel when you tear it apart. I wouldn't be surprised to hear that your flywheel is gouged and the clutch disc is warped.

Undisputed · May 18, 2010

NastyStang113 said:
Undisputed. I tried to help you in your other thread but you seemed reluctant to take my advice, even though I went through it and have a perfect shifting car now. I see you order a new OEM slave cylinder. I thought you said that was the issue and the OEM slave cylinder just didn't work because it doesn't work fast enough at those RPMs, etc. I'd inspect your clutch and flywheel when you tear it apart. I wouldn't be surprised to hear that your flywheel is gouged and the clutch disc is warped.

No no, I agreed with you that the stock slave can do it, and that I was mis-informed that it couldnt! My problem started when my car was impounded and abused (pulled up my ebrake and dropped the clutch till the clutch disc came apart) and when I got the car back it didnt move...so I bought the clutch kit and flywheel, installed it, borke it in, and then realized i couldnt shift fast or at hi revs. After hearing you and others tell me that the stock slave COULD handle any clutch, I ordered a stock OEM slave, pilot bearing and we are actaully pulling it out today to replace the parts, and inspect it! I'm sorry if it seemed liek I was arguing with you, I was just misinformed and had heard otherwise, but all I'm hoping is today or tomorrow i can be back to normal!! Thanks for you advise and help..wish me luck!!

Undisputed · Jul 22, 2010

WELL...CHECK THIS OUT...

INSTALLED A BRAND NEW PRESSURE PLATE, SLAVE CYLINDER, INSPECTED THE DISC, AND EVEN CUT THE FLYWHEEL...PUT IT TOGETHER, AND IT WAS NOW GRINDING HORRIBLY IN 2ND N 3RD... So I called Ford, and they actually pulled the trans, and rebuilt it with all new syncros, bearings, and some plastic sleeves, and more..and the car drives mint, i break it in for a few hundred miles... AND BAM, 1ST TIME I GET ON IT AGAIN, I CANT SHIFT FROM 1 GEAR TILL THE NEXT FAST STILL, IT'S EXACTLY THE SAME, LIKE THE GATE IS CLOSED... No grind, no noise, JUST WILL NOT GO IN, I HAVE TO PUSH THE CLUTCH, WAIT A SEC, PULL IT OUTTA GEAR, AND RELEASE, THEN PRESS AGAIN AND GUIDE THE SHIFTER INTO THE NEXT GATE (DOBLE CLUTCH, VERY SLOW) WTF? I just ordered poly-race motor mounts (some say thats the issue) and i'm gonna put the stock shifter back in...if neither of those fixes work, there is NOTHING ELSE LEFT!! WTF!? Not one track run this year becasue of this problem, and it just wont go away!!!

Sparty92 · Jul 22, 2010

Well, after watching your videos and how you drive the car...I'm not surprised. Bummer.

Undisputed · Jul 22, 2010

Sparty92 said:
Well, after watching your videos and how you drive the car...I'm not surprised. Bummer.

hahaha, all those vids are after the problem, didnt u notice how slow i have to shift in them..and... everyhting was replaced, as i wrote, and the same issue...I dunno what else it could be...

ShaneM · Jul 23, 2010

FWIW, there are several people on other forums who have a problem with the second to third on the tens at stock power. the people who have had that issue claim to have fixed it with the k member with torque limiters and a short shifter. It has to do with the movement of the engine and tranny binding the remote shifter making the shift nearly impossible at high RPM. The issue seems to be there on some of these cars and not on others. the early 05 cars had this issue too and the tsb added torque limiters to fix the problem.

DarkFireGT · Jul 23, 2010

I had the problem stock (though it was a grind and not a complete lock-out). The torque limiters and Hurst shifter took it away. Installed a new clutch with a new OEM slave cylinder and new flywheel, and now I'm locked out over 5000 RPMs from first to second. I'm sure it the 2nd gear synchro, I just haven't dug into it.

Undisputed · Jul 29, 2010

I just got in my POLY mounts...do you think I will still need the torque limiters as well?!.. Theres nothing else left, I even put the stock shifter in last week, same problem above 5K, no way... i'm glad im not the only one..but, we all need to figure out wtf is the fix... 2nd time for FULL FLYWHEEL AND CLUTCH KIT INSTALLED, AND BLED, NEW SLAVE, AND FORD EVEN REBUILT MY TRANS UNDER THAT TSB.. Still cant powershift, or even shift past 5K.. this is making my 450rwhp car run 325rwhp times...LOL..i cant really deal w/ this anymore..im gonna try mounts and MGW shifter...do u really think torque limiters are a must too?!

Aftermarket Clutch/Flywheel SERIOUS shiftin/drivability problems..Any1 else have/had?

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