Does anyone know what will fix this problem, my car has had this problem since about 5,000 miles…it’s a 2010 GT and I need this problem solved, and so do many other suffering from the same issue!!
I'm running a Ram PowerGrip with a PRW billet steel flywheel and have the same problem. I thought maybe the additional heat from L/Ts might have been allowing the OEM hydraulic line to swell. I switch to the FRPP braided clutch line, better brake fluid and prothane motor mounts. I hate to tell you but this isn't the answer but it may help you with the process of elimination. Next up is an easy fluid change. I don't have very high hopes but its the last I can do without having to shell out more coin.
I was jsut about to order the mounts and "torque limiter brace".. I guess that woudl have abeen a fail... I have been going nuts over this, and it;s making my car a fu*kin pain now that I have serious power, but have to shift like a truck driver... I was told by Brenspeed that I should just pull the trans and buy a BRAND NEW OEM slave cylinder/release bearing and put it back together, they said they have heard of this problem alot, but IT IS NOT THE FACT THAT THE SLAVE/RELEASE CANT RELEASE A HI PERF. CLUTCH SETUP, It's that the stock one failed.. my car has only 12,000 miles, and it was perfect @ 8,000 when I swapped out the clutch, but i DID NOT CHANGE THE SLAVE/RELEASE so I'm going to go for it and say fu*k it, I cant go through this season w/ 500+ hp and having to shift like I have a huge trailer being pulled behind my semi...lol
Im right there with ya! It is very aggravating to go for second and grab a hand full of teeth. I will probably run this season as is but would definitely like to know how this works out for you!
I still think the engine mounts are a good idea for reasons other than attempting to cure the lazy shifting tranny. It does reduce the slop in the drive lines and is noticeable in the 2-3 shift.
Keep us posted on your progress!
Undisputed. I tried to help you in your other thread but you seemed reluctant to take my advice, even though I went through it and have a perfect shifting car now. I see you order a new OEM slave cylinder. I thought you said that was the issue and the OEM slave cylinder just didn't work because it doesn't work fast enough at those RPMs, etc. I'd inspect your clutch and flywheel when you tear it apart. I wouldn't be surprised to hear that your flywheel is gouged and the clutch disc is warped.
Well, after watching your videos and how you drive the car...I'm not surprised. Bummer.
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