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Air conditioning not working

  • Thread starter Thread starter Piranahbite
  • Start date Start date Jul 2, 2024

Piranahbite

Active Member
Jan 21, 2022
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American canyon
Jul 2, 2024
#1
  • Jul 2, 2024
  • #1
Hey guys, I have a 1987 Ford mustang 2.3 with a 5-speed, my air conditioning has never worked, this summer it's starting to bug me and I'm tired of my dad talking about how good it worked when his mom drove the car, I tried putting in r 134a, I know it's an r12 system but I'm desperate and I'm going to replace all the seals when I swap in my turbo motor, the issue I'm having is my air conditioning clutch won't engage, both terminals going to it are 12 volt ground what seems to be the issue? Also, would it be cheaper to go to a shop to have them fix this? Or would it be better to do on my own
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#2
  • Jul 2, 2024
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You've already goofed up by putting 134a in a R12 system without flushing and changing O rings, it will never work right now, never, not gonna happen. A flush and O ring change is the minimum for a 'maybe it will work OK for a while' fix.
Now at the minimum I'd go for a professional flush, new dryer, orifice tube, compressor and see where it's at. JMO.
For future reference, I have witnessed Mr.Freeze get a system up a operating with cold air, lasted a couple years on a car that the system was never opened, just low on R12.
 
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Piranahbite

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Jan 21, 2022
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Jul 3, 2024
#3
  • Jul 3, 2024
  • #3
General karthief said:
You've already goofed up by putting 134a in a R12 system without flushing and changing O rings, it will never work right now, never, not gonna happen. A flush and O ring change is the minimum for a 'maybe it will work OK for a while' fix.
Now at the minimum I'd go for a professional flush, new dryer, orifice tube, compressor and see where it's at. JMO.
For future reference, I have witnessed Mr.Freeze get a system up a operating with cold air, lasted a couple years on a car that the system was never opened, just low on R12.
Click to expand...
Ah, i see, well, if it makes it any better, when i first got the car i committed a felony thinking i was bleeding a fuel line (get it? Cuz releasing r-12 is considered a felony i think?) And im pretty sure its been empty for the last 4 years, so, bottom line, theres nothin in it i know were i can find a couple old cans of r12, but i dont know if the guy would part with it.

Main issue is, the ac clutch isnt engaging im getting 12 volt ground from both wires
 

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
Admin Dude
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Jul 3, 2024
#4
  • Jul 3, 2024
  • #4
Piranahbite said:
Main issue is, the ac clutch isnt engaging im getting 12 volt ground from both wires
Click to expand...

Nope. This is [not] the main issue. The General outlined the main issue in his post above.

You need to find an automotive A/C shop near you.
 

Piranahbite

Active Member
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American canyon
Jul 3, 2024
#5
  • Jul 3, 2024
  • #5
Noobz347 said:
Nope. This is [not] the main issue. The General outlined the main issue in his post above.

You need to find an automotive A/C shop near you.
Click to expand...
Okay okay, I'm an idiot, and if it makes you guys feel a little bit better I just did some research found some r12 and it turns out it's actually cheaper than the r134a I just bought I'm going to take it all out of my system, make sure Mike components are working, and then fill it with r 12. In aviation, there's a rule that applies when you put the wrong hydraulic fluid in an aircraft, you have a certain amount of time to get the fluid out, and then you can decide whether you have to replace parts or not, your time the window shrinks if you run the component. Only thing I did was fill it, and I didn't even fill it well. I'm going to dump it all out, figure out why that clutch isn't engaging and then fill it


The reason why I acted without thinking yesterday, well, my damn head was being boiled off My Brain, if I do get it working, I'm not worried about the seals, because the r134a has only been in there for less than 24 hours and hasn't been operated. Even if the seals are bad I'll replace them when I put in my turbo motor with new components
 

Piranahbite

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Jul 3, 2024
#6
  • Jul 3, 2024
  • #6
Here's an update so far,

AC clutch works, manually engaged it via applying power and ground to it.

I removed all r134a from the system

Next step is diagnosing why the clutch is not engaging on its own

Then I'll put in some r12!

Does anyone have a diagram of how the AC clutch engages so I can verify all my stuff is intact? I left my hanes manual at home
 

evintho

20+ Year Stangneter
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#7
  • Jul 3, 2024
  • #7
This may be helpful.................
 

Piranahbite

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American canyon
Jul 3, 2024
#8
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Okay. Filled system with r12, and jumped the compressor wires. Car blew cold air. Will not engage clutch on its own. Pressure sensor is closed as in trying to engage clutch, and im still getting no voltage at the compressor harness. The st of wires that go to the compressor that have the funky diode in line with the wires
 

Mcmahst

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Jul 3, 2024
#9
  • Jul 3, 2024
  • #9
Check the fuse and do a google search on your car’s AC electrical diagram. I’m sure it’s out there.
 
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evintho

20+ Year Stangneter
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Jul 3, 2024
#10
  • Jul 3, 2024
  • #10
Piranahbite said:
Okay. Filled system with r12, and jumped the compressor wires. Car blew cold air. Will not engage clutch on its own. Pressure sensor is closed as in trying to engage clutch, and im still getting no voltage at the compressor harness. The st of wires that go to the compressor that have the funky diode in line with the wires
Click to expand...
No voltage at the compressor harness means the electromagnet inside the compressor isn't receiving power meaning the clutch won't engage. The compressor is probably good. Start tracing back from the connector until you reach power. Somewhere between the connector and the last place of power will be the issue.
 

Piranahbite

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Jan 21, 2022
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Jul 3, 2024
#11
  • Jul 3, 2024
  • #11
evintho said:
No voltage at the compressor harness means the electromagnet inside the compressor isn't receiving power meaning the clutch won't engage. The compressor is probably good. Start tracing back from the connector until you reach power. Somewhere between the connector and the last place of power will be the issue.
Click to expand...
I believe the issue resides in the diode right before the clutch itself works perfectly fine when you apply 12 volts to it and a ground, and I have voltage of the pressure switch so somewhere between there and the compressor is where I lost it I'm looking at my hands diagram
 

Piranahbite

Active Member
Jan 21, 2022
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American canyon
Jul 3, 2024
#12
  • Jul 3, 2024
  • #12
Mcmahst said:
Check the fuse and do a google search on your car’s AC electrical diagram. I’m sure it’s out there.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I have a hands manual I just trying to get info before going home. Fuse is good,
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#13
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  • #13
You need to keep a few sewing needles with your DVM so you can prob the wire on each side of the diode to verify if it's done. You (usually) don't hurt the covering on the wires.
 

manicmechanic007

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Sep 26, 2017
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#14
  • Jul 6, 2024
  • #14
Hands Manual?
You are to add ester oil when converting to R134a
That makes the residual R12 oil compatible with the PAG oil and there will be no acid created
That flush is about a hundred bucks a gallon and you will need one gallon at least
They told us in screwell to have kids first, the stuff is bad
Should be able to find a complete AC from a 87 Mustang pretty easy in case yours is eaten up with acid
Find a 87 Mustang EVTM?
 
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evintho

20+ Year Stangneter
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#15
  • Jul 6, 2024
  • #15
manicmechanic007 said:
Hands Manual?
Click to expand...
Pretty sure he meant Haynes manual.
 
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Piranahbite

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Jul 8, 2024
#16
  • Jul 8, 2024
  • #16
evintho said:
Pretty sure he meant Haynes manual.
Click to expand...
Yep.... Haynes! I was using voice type that day because I was trying to fix my car and pretend to work at the same time haha
 
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