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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

air conditioning

  • Thread starter Thread starter mudbilly
  • Start date Start date Jul 27, 2005

mudbilly

Member
Jun 3, 2005
175
0
16
South County, Maryland
Jul 27, 2005
#1
  • Jul 27, 2005
  • #1
ok, driving a rag top can be ALOT of fun......but not in the 98 degree heat with 95 percent humidity that we are now wading thru, especially with black leather seats

so, i figger that it is time to finally take the car to a shop to get the factory air working

are they going to try and talk me into using the new refrigerant???

should i do that or is it better to use the old stuff?? i have heard second hand stories about how the new stuff has smaller molecules and has a hard time staying in the old systems.... i know that gaskets, etc would also have to changed for this new stuff..

just tryring to get a handle on this BEFORE i get into discussions with the shop guy
 

iskwezm

10 Year Member
May 24, 2005
4,159
20
79
Rowland Heights,California
Jul 27, 2005
#2
  • Jul 27, 2005
  • #2
mudbilly said:
ok, driving a rag top can be ALOT of fun......but not in the 98 degree heat with 95 percent humidity that we are now wading thru, especially with black leather seats

so, i figger that it is time to finally take the car to a shop to get the factory air working

are they going to try and talk me into using the new refrigerant???

should i do that or is it better to use the old stuff?? i have heard second hand stories about how the new stuff has smaller molecules and has a hard time staying in the old systems.... i know that gaskets, etc would also have to changed for this new stuff..

just tryring to get a handle on this BEFORE i get into discussions with the shop guy
Click to expand...
yes they will try to convert you to 134.I personally belive that R12 cooled better,but it is scarce now and expensive(did a/c for 10 years)the change over wouldnt cost that much and i think whoever told you that it would leak easier or faster is mistaken.If all the hoses are tight and seals are good,there shouldnt be a problem.
 

mudbilly

Member
Jun 3, 2005
175
0
16
South County, Maryland
Jul 27, 2005
#3
  • Jul 27, 2005
  • #3
don't the seals or orings and the like need to swapped out?
 

iskwezm

10 Year Member
May 24, 2005
4,159
20
79
Rowland Heights,California
Jul 27, 2005
#4
  • Jul 27, 2005
  • #4
mudbilly said:
don't the seals or orings and the like need to swapped out?
Click to expand...
yes,and the high/low pressure valves and i think the accumulator
 

mudbilly

Member
Jun 3, 2005
175
0
16
South County, Maryland
Jul 27, 2005
#5
  • Jul 27, 2005
  • #5
freeze12

just got a tip on this stuff

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=46094&item=7988286769

i'm gonna throw 50 bucks at it and see how it works...........

i just hope that there isn't anything wrong with the system besides not having freon
 
M

mustangman1974

Member
Jan 17, 2004
463
0
16
Jul 27, 2005
#6
  • Jul 27, 2005
  • #6
look either at custom auto Air. They have a R134 conversion. That stuff wont; work my dad tried it on his PU it eventually did something int eh condensor and that had to be replaced. and did cool worth a damn. Vintage air also sells a conversion. I believe its the dryer, rings, oil, and something i can;t member. It an easy conversion.
 

iskwezm

10 Year Member
May 24, 2005
4,159
20
79
Rowland Heights,California
Jul 27, 2005
#7
  • Jul 27, 2005
  • #7
mudbilly said:
just got a tip on this stuff

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=46094&item=7988286769

i'm gonna throw 50 bucks at it and see how it works...........

i just hope that there isn't anything wrong with the system besides not having freon
Click to expand...
you might want to get a VAC. put on it to see if it will hold and has no leaks.

That kit should work if the system is good
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Jul 28, 2005
#8
  • Jul 28, 2005
  • #8
Forget the Freeze-12 and just do a 134a conversion. It cools damn well for being "not as good as R12". At the worst you'll need a system flush, new drier, and new oil. There are a few different types of oil to use, the universal being ester based. Regarding the molecules, there are no o-rings in an early system that I know of to leak through so the only way is by migration through the rubber hoses. That doesnt seem to happen.

I've been collecting and fabbing parts for my '68's A/C lately. I even machined some new Teflon Roto-Loc seals for the compressor ports since no parts store here has any. I also built adapters that let me connect 134a ports, cans, and gages to the old flare fittings. On top of that, I got a venturi vacuum pump and also made an electric out of a refrigerator compressor.
 

txwoody

Member
Jun 2, 2004
99
0
6
4 hours to anywhere, TX
Jul 28, 2005
#9
  • Jul 28, 2005
  • #9
When I got my 65 the AC wasen't working. The car was sitting for about 10 years, Didn't know if the compressor was out or what. So I just bought the fittings and through some 134 in it. I really just wanted to see if the compressor was working and check for leaks. It cooled great. I ended up running it like that for about 2 summers. It was still working when I pulled it all off to start my 5.0 install. I didn't flush it or put any oil into. Now I am not saying that is right or saying to do that, just stating that 134 will work in theses old ac systems.
 
6

66stangbluework

New Member
May 5, 2005
113
0
0
Jul 28, 2005
#10
  • Jul 28, 2005
  • #10
quick question, isnt the dash different on an ac car? My car didnt have a/c but I would like to one day
 
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