alignment woes

1970 w/ 5.0 FI, negative camber wedge kit with dropped upper control arms by 1 3/4 inches, all NEW control arms, bushings, tie rods, heavy duty front and rear sway bars, Granada disc brakes, etc... 9k miles ago when restored. Car has NEVER been hit - rust FREE garaged kept 302 2v California car from a 78 yr old owner when I bought it 6yrs ago - even had original paint! Shock towers had no cracks in them when I had the engine out and I don't see any now - but I am suspicious of them collapsing. Car is rarely driven and when it is I drive like grandpa. I have not hit any potholes, taken quick corners, etc... Since the car is now EFI the export braces were replaced with home fabricated metal pipes from each shock tower to the fire wall with a heavy metal plate and an monte carlo bar was installed. I am suspicious that the metal pipe export braces have allowed the shock towers to twist and move but the fender gaps have not changed. Car had been driving perfectly for 9k miles but over the past 100 miles it has been making a progressively worse screech sound when driving with even a slight corner. I looked at the tires and they have now got feathered/angled wear toward the inside edges of the front tires -- they had perfect wear patterns on my last oil change/lube 500 miles ago. The wheels now seem to be slanted in at the top on both sides with the right front wheel 1 finger width further forward of the wheel opening rear edge than the left side - but that measurement will be different if I drive the car a block and check it again on a different surface. Also the right front wheel seems to be pointing like it is turning slightly to the right when the left front wheel is pointed straight. Any words of wisdom?
 
It sounds to me like your upper control arm cross shaft bushings are shot. Just pull the wheels off and have a look. They sometimes get so bad that the UCA rubs the inside of the shock tower and wears a hole in to the engine bay. This problem would have all the symptoms you are describing: screeching tires while turning, reverse appearing camber, different camber after driving, and so on.
 
Is the monte carlo bar fabricated (homemade) or is in original or after market? If the monte bar is home made, it could have been made incorrectly. If this was bought from a merchant, the monte carlo never fits as the shock towers have slightly collapsed or sagged. The Monte Carlo bar is made correctly but the car needs to be put back into its original shape.

What I'm getting at is if its home fabbed, it was problably made incorrectly and the car is slightly settling more. What kind of monte bar do you have?
 
If this was bought from a merchant, the monte carlo never fits as the shock towers have slightly collapsed or sagged.
Not the case with my car, I've bought both styles from NPD, and they fit like a glove. I had the straight chrome one, but didn't like that I had to take it off to do any distributor work. So I bought the curved black one, which is easier to maintain, and it made changing plug wires a breeze.
:nice:
 
actually it sounds too me like the lower control arm eccentrics have slipped. actually a pretty common problem. this is the reason why the boss 302 race cars had specially made engine crossmembers that connected to the LCA bolts as well the frame, to keep the LCA's from slipping. if the eccentrics bolts are original it's probably time to get them changed anway. when they start getting old, they don't hold as well. i also always double nut them to help keep the nuts from backing off.
 
Thanks guys - the monte carlo bar is homemade - it was fabbed while the engine was out of the car - same as the export braces - homemade too. All of the suspension was rebuilt or replaced including the upper control arms, ball joints, upper control arm shafts (90* grease fittings installed) etc... I am suspicious of the eccentrics and have ordered Pro Motorsports eliminator kit - soon I will find out....
 
I had not thought of wheel bearings - I like that E-bay brace from Laurel Moutain - I still wonder if the "bar" export brace part will let the towers flex and twist - the "flat" style with waves built in them like the one piece Shelby unit seem to be the best idea to avoid the twist... I will be doing a combination of eccentric eliminators, export braces, checking all mounting bolts, bearings, etc..