Almost finished underneath. POR-15 and Gravlguard

65-Fstbk · Jan 26, 2013

For anyone else doing this I thought I'd post a pic of the fastback with the new floor pans and underside almost done. I did the overlap type install on my new floor pans and then welded above and below. Not perfect but not bad for a rookie. I then cleaned off all of the old undercoat etc from underneath and brushed it with POR-15 semi-gloss black. Once the POR-15 had cured I topped it with something called Pro-Form European Texture GravlGuard which is very tough stuff. I'm now going to seam seal everything and re-install the rear end which was also re-finished. I'm putting in new GAT 4.5 mid-eye leaf springs and all new brake components on the rear drums. Hopefully the rear sits at a good height with these springs.

Jake2012 · Jan 26, 2013

Nice work, you shld be proud of the job you have done. I'm interested to see how it's sits with new leaf springs so be sure to post a pic when it's done !

horse sence · Jan 28, 2013

yeah ,looking good. nice and clean under side.

65-Fstbk · Feb 3, 2013

Jake2012 said:
Nice work, you shld be proud of the job you have done. I'm interested to see how it's sits with new leaf springs so be sure to post a pic when it's done !

Yesterday I installed the refinished rear end, new 4 1/2 mid-eye leafs and the new shackles. Nothing is really torqued properly yet and I still have to put the shocks in. Once the shocks are in I will post a ride height pic. Here's how it looks from the back right now.

trokman · Feb 3, 2013

Did you spray or brush the por15 on? If you brushed it how did it look in terms of brush marks...I want to paint my floors the same way but just finish with the por15. How much por15 did you need do all of the under carriage?

65-Fstbk · Feb 3, 2013

trokman said:
Did you spray or brush the por15 on? If you brushed it how did it look in terms of brush marks...I want to paint my floors the same way but just finish with the por15. How much por15 did you need do all of the under carriage?

I brushed it on. I stripped with a nylon wheel then brushed on the POR-15. No brush marks b/c it's self-leveling. You'll see brush marks while you're actually putting it on but they disappear as it cures. The undercarriage probably used about 3/4 of a quart. The stuff goes a looooong way. One important note...it really smells so be sure to do it in a well ventilated area and wear a respirator, gloves, long sleeves and eye protection. Protect your hair too.

horse sence · Feb 3, 2013

65-Fstbk said:
Yesterday I installed the refinished rear end, new 4 1/2 mid-eye leafs and the new shackles. Nothing is really torqued properly yet and I still have to put the shocks in. Once the shocks are in I will post a ride height pic. Here's how it looks from the back right now.

make sure the weight of the body is on the leafs when you tighten the springs .that way the spring bushings will be at a neutral position when tightened/ dont let the rear end haing and then tighten. your doing great

Platonic Solid · Feb 4, 2013

65-Fstbk said:
I brushed it on. I stripped with a nylon wheel then brushed on the POR-15. No brush marks b/c it's self-leveling. You'll see brush marks while you're actually putting it on but they disappear as it cures. The undercarriage probably used about 3/4 of a quart. The stuff goes a looooong way. One important note...it really smells so be sure to do it in a well ventilated area and wear a respirator, gloves, long sleeves and eye protection. Protect your hair too.

I hope you cleaned it with Marine Clean and etched it with Metal Ready before you applied the POR-15.

65-Fstbk · Feb 4, 2013

horse sence said:
make sure the weight of the body is on the leafs when you tighten the springs .that way the spring bushings will be at a neutral position when tightened/ dont let the rear end haing and then tighten. your doing great

Thanks horsesense. I'm kind of learning as I go using the 'common sense' approach. I'll be sure to tighten everything while the springs are loaded, cheers. The forum is great too..you have all been a big help to me as I go through the process. That is much appreciated.

After this I'm taking the car down to a local shop where it's going to have the remainder of the paint blasted off. Then I will do the motor and..yikes..wiring, so I'll be bugging you all lots more. For wiring I think I'm leaning towards the American Autowire kit. Any thoughts on that?

65-Fstbk · Feb 4, 2013

Platonic Solid said:
I hope you cleaned it with Marine Clean and etched it with Metal Ready before you applied the POR-15.

Actually I didn't. The reason is that I experimented with the application process on the upper side of the floorpans before doing it underneath. I used Metal ready on all of the front clip, control arms etc before applying the POR but the nylon stripping wheel crates a really nice surface scratch. I used the stripping wheel then blew it off with compressed air and then applied the POR. It cured as hard as rock..very solid, can't chip or scratch it. Stuff is bulletproof. I think it's more critical to use the Metal Ready when applying the POR over a smooth surface that doesn't have much bite.

Platonic Solid · Feb 5, 2013

65-Fstbk said:
Actually I didn't. The reason is that I experimented with the application process on the upper side of the floorpans before doing it underneath. I used Metal ready on all of the front clip, control arms etc before applying the POR but the nylon stripping wheel crates a really nice surface scratch. I used the stripping wheel then blew it off with compressed air and then applied the POR. It cured as hard as rock..very solid, can't chip or scratch it. Stuff is bulletproof. I think it's more critical to use the Metal Ready when applying the POR over a smooth surface that doesn't have much bite.

It'll be inseresting to see how it holds up over time. Not washing it to remove any contaminants after the nylon stripping wheel may be a bigger issue than not acid etching it. For your sake, I hope it doesn't happen, but if it does fail, it will peal off in sheets.

65-Fstbk · Feb 5, 2013

Platonic Solid said:
It'll be inseresting to see how it holds up over time. Not washing it to remove any contaminants after the nylon stripping wheel may be a bigger issue than not acid etching it. For your sake, I hope it doesn't happen, but if it does fail, it will peal off in sheets.

I'll be sure to post on here if there are any issues with it. I think if it were to ever start to peel I would take the car in and have the underside blasted and then re-do it. What's on now seems incredibly solid though. I'll post if anything crops up though.

65-Fstbk · Feb 10, 2013

Jake2012 said:
Nice work, you shld be proud of the job you have done. I'm interested to see how it's sits with new leaf springs so be sure to post a pic when it's done !

Shocks are now installed and everything is torqued on the rear. No fuel tank in the car which would likely drop it a little. Not sure if there will be any settling with this or not. Rims are 14" and the wheel opening sits 28" from the ground. Anyone know what a stock measurement would be? The mid-eye leafs are supposed to drop it 1" so I'm thinking 29" would be stock.

horse sence · Feb 10, 2013

you will have a bit more settling with bumpers,seats and glass and all the other goodies ,the back window and rear seat is fairly heavy, even the motor and trany will add a small amount to the rear. looking good

Almost finished underneath. POR-15 and Gravlguard

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