I appreciate the info. I guess it’s time for me to stop making excuses and finally get a welder. I’ll only be able to get a flux core for the foreseeable future since I don’t have my shop yet and only have access to 110. Do you think a flux core would do as long as I’m extremely careful and practice plenty before attempting the welds? Also for the one big crack should I drill a small hole in the end of it before welding as well?Weld them up the same way as the cracks for the seat mount. Would also suggest stitch welding the seams where the torque box contacts the floor pan and subframes. Helps with strength and stiffens things up. Do this on both the uppers and lowers. Look for pulled spot welds and address them as well. Welding the uppers will require pulling the back seat and having fire watch. If you are by yourself you can soak a heavy towel and cover the area you are welding in the car.
Wanted to add to my comments above. You will need to remove the UCA's and LCA's from the body mounts so you can also weld up the seams that are on the inside of the torque boxes and upper mounts. Also, cannot stress this enough, clean the areas that you are going to weld. The cleaner they are the better the weld quality will be. Start with degreasing everything then move to a wire wheel (you can get 1/4" shank wire brushes for your cordless drill) and get all the surface rust, paint, etc. off the weld area. After you weld them up wire brush everything again, wipe down with some brake cleaner, allow dry time, use an etching primer, and then either paint or use undercoating.
I just removed the rear end and drive shaft so my buddy had a lot of room to weld things up. If you do not want to change transmission fluid at this time you will need a tail housing plug to put in the trans when you pull the drive shaft. You will also need to plan on plugging the brake lines. I also ended up cleaning up the rear end (power washed, degreased, wire wheeled, and painted) while it was out of the car.
Is it a lot of work? Yes, but if you do all of this your car will thank you and your wallet will later down the road.
That’s relieving to hear. I didn’t know how bad they actually were in the grand scheme of things. I’ll check some more another day when it’s jacked up again for any more cracks or tears. I’ll definitely get a gas 110/220 as that’s what I wanted to begin with I just didn’t know that was a thing. I greatly appreciate your help and all the help you’ve provided so far.So your torque boxes have small cracks and no where near ripped.
My Miller mig is 110/220 and will weld with shielding gas on 110. Keep shipping welders until you can find one that does both 110/220 and can work with shielding gas.
Thanks for the recommendation. I looked into it and it looks to be a good price and has good reviews. It’s actually a better price than the one I was looking at on harbor freights website. There’s a 140 amp and a 180 amp I see. The 140 amp I see is a good bit cheaper. Which one would you recommend?If you’re not dead set on the 220, I had some good success learning to weld and doing my floor pans and subframe connectors with the Eastwood 110v MIG.
I would definitely recommend it!
Makes sense. I’ll most likely just go with the 140. It sounds like it’ll do everything I need it to do. Hopefully I can catch on relatively quickly lolI bought their MIG 135, but I think that is discontinued and their new line includes the 140 and 180. I guess the 140 is the new and improved 135. For basic car work, I think the 140 would be fine, but for a little more, the 180 gives you the dual voltage option, and ability to weld thicker material.
I’ve used my welder for other things around the house, and I’ve yet to say “I wish I had a stronger machine”.
I’m starting to ramble on …. Bottom line…. I think the 140 is a pretty good bang for the buck.
I bought a bunch of metal from the local Home Depot, or Tractor Supply, I forget which…… anyway….. I practiced a lot with a lot of scrap metal. Burned through a whole bottle practicing. I had some prior experience in an old job where I was being taught, but it was on 1/4” and better. The thinner stuff is harder in my opinion. With some practice you’ll get it.Makes sense. I’ll most likely just go with the 140. It sounds like it’ll do everything I need it to do. Hopefully I can catch on relatively quickly lol
That’s something I’ve wanted to do since high school and I might just do it. I love to be able to do things on my own and not have to rely on someone for them to only make it worse while still taking my money.If I was a young man again I would take some welding and " body and paint" classes at a local Community College.... Wouldn't want to make my living that way but it sure would have made my car hobby more fun and less expensive...... If need be, you could make some money on the side too......
I grew up in a body shop. Been in one since my teens and I'm 42 now. I was never a full blown body man or a painter, but I know enough to be dangerous. I was a body apprentice for quite a few years, until I went to estimating. I'm a body shop manager now. I was able to handle the teardown and body work on my 88 a few years back. I had my painter at the time paint it though. Its definitely something I enjoy doing, just not for a living. I've worked with body men and painters that have had their bodies just breakdown on them due to the trade. Glad my techs are all in their 30's!!If I was a young man again I would take some welding and " body and paint" classes at a local Community College.... Wouldn't want to make my living that way but it sure would have made my car hobby more fun and less expensive...... If need be, you could make some money on the side too......