almost passed emmissions 347 '90 stang

Just passed emmissions 347 '90 stang

Mods on the vehicle: bored and stroked to 347, 10:1 compression, LT headers, catted h-pipe, flowmaster cat-back, trick flow TW heads, cobra intake manifold, stock injectors, 75mm granetelli MAF, cold air intake, accel distributer, msd spark plug wires, E-cam, timing set at 10* degrees, air fuel adjuster. Smog pump and tube were disconnected. Before the test I poured 4 bottles of "heet", which is usually used to prevent the gas lines from freezing during cold temps. Here's the results:
HC (PPM) / CO

Cruise limit: 160 / 1.1

Cruise emissions: 35 / 0

Result: pass / pass

idle limit: 220 / 1.2

idle emissions: 616 / 0.07

result: fail / pass

I think all I need to do is just go leaner on the air adjuster. Any suggestions?
 
How to pass emissions testing:

1.) Make sure all the emissions gear the car was made with is present and connected up properly. That includes a working smog pump and cats.

2.) Make sure that you have fresh tune up with spark plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, fuel & air filters. An oil & filter change is a good idea while you are at it.

3.) Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/article...c-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/det...iption.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.

4.) Post the codes and get help to fix them. Don’t try to pass with codes not fixed. Clearing the computer just temporarily removes them from memory, it doesn’t fix the problem that caused the code to be set.

5.) Be sure to do the testing on a hot engine. Drive for 15-20 minutes prior to taking the test to get operating temps up into the normal range. Do not shut off the engine while waiting for your turn on the test machine. An engine up to full operating temperature puts out fewer emissions.

High NO - high combustion temps - retard timing, check EGR for operation.
High CO - EGR isn't working - fix it.
High HC - fuel mixture too rich - check O2 sensors, smog pump, and cats. Clean MAF element. Do the ethanol thing as suggested.
 
Thanks I appreciate it. I also did a tune up also before the testing. One thing I did forget to change was the o2 sensors, I pulled some codes about a week ago and came up as injectors, fuel lines, fuel filter, o2 sensors. A few days ago I switched back to my 19 squirters and didn't get a chance to flush the fuel lines to clean them out. Everything else is brand new except for the o2 sensors which are about 2 years old.
 
use acetone next time instead of heet, or use that emissions pass stuff from the auto store. Get your car nice and hot from driving around for a while, then back your timing down to 8 degrees, and back your fuel pressure down a bit and drive straight to the emissions place. You should get it the second time around.
 
fastfox86 said:
use acetone next time instead of heet, or use that emissions pass stuff from the auto store. Get your car nice and hot from driving around for a while, then back your timing down to 8 degrees, and back your fuel pressure down a bit and drive straight to the emissions place. You should get it the second time around.

That's a couple of things I should've done, I'll make sure I'll do this before I make the next trip later on today. I'll post my results later today.
 
Well I turned down the fuel pressure to 37 psi and lowered the air fuel adjuster and I passed all tests. I barely passed the cruise emissions under hydro carbons, the exact limit.

HC (PPM) CO(%)

Cruise Limit: 160 / 1.1

cruise emissions: 160 / 0.05

cruise result: pass / pass

idle limit: 220 / 1.2

idle emissions: 34 / 0.04

idle result: pass / pass