Almost ready to swap....few last questions

PM numbles he did this swap a little while ago.

The only things I see missing are a

1. Clutch Cable Dust Cover (One from 87-93 Fox)
2. The top two hole on the new bellhousing require shorter bolts. Use two of the glod colored ones that come with the trans. And use the ones your replacing in the trans to bellhousing locations.
3. You need a shift handle to mate up to the hurst shifter. Steeda and SLP both sell shifter bushing for use with the stock handle if you wanna go that route.
4. The exhaust hanger bolted to the trans crossmember will have to be junked. Unless you have the tools to modify it the just junk it. You dont need it anyways. Get a polyurethane trans mount while your under there. I got mine from energy suspension.
5. In order for the trans to bold up to the stock crossmember you will either have to drill new holes, or turn the crossmember around like I did. That seemed to work fine.

And that all I can think of for now. Except use you hanes ot chilton's manual to get all the torque specs. Then your good.

Dan.

Ive had no problems thus far with them. I think you will be fine.

And about the crossmember. Yes rotate it 180* And you should be fine. Honestly, throw it aside and then when it comes time to put it back on, then hold it up there till you figure out which works best.

I had to rotate mine too so my 'R" is now on the driverside.

I just elongated the sots in my crossmember with an air die grinder. Flipping it would work too. I ditched the plate that has the exhaust hangers on it (I never used them anyway), but bought an 1/8" thick "Mending Plate" from Home Depot that was about 8 or 10" long with a few holes spaced in it to act as a spacer between the tranny and the tranny mount (just to raise the tranny a bit). The plate was the same width as the area on the tranny where the mount bolts, but a bit longer. I lined up one of the existing holes and traced the part of the tranny on it and marked the other hole. Then used a grinder and "rounded" the edges and drilled the hole and created a "spacer" that's the exact same size as the mout area of the tranny.

This isnt neccessary, but my HPM driveshaft loop would just barely touch the driveshaft with the rear suspension at full travel