Almost ready, what do you think of this setup??

[02stangman]

OK guys, I'm about ready to build my motor. 1986 5.0 that's totally stock at this time. After beating myself up over what to do, I've decided on the following:

Bored .030
Original crank
Original rods
Trick Flow pistons
Trick flow Street heat top end kit
70mm or 75mm throttle body
EGR spacer

I do have a few question I'm hoping you guys can help me with.

-- What kind/type/brand lifters should I use?
-- Should I use a dish type piston with no valve reliefs or a flat top piston with 2 valve reliefs? Trick Flow parts TFS-51404000 or TFS-51404010-1
-- The top end kit comes with the mild Stage 1 cam. Should I swap that out for the fair idle stage 2 cam? I like the rough idle so I'm not sure if I'll get it with the stage 1

I decided on the street heat kit because it claims 350 HP and 370lb/ft of torque where as the Track heat kit claims 360HP and 350lb/ft of torque. I know I'm not gonna see that HP but I'm hoping for the extra torque. What do you guys think, am I on the right track here.

Thanks for the help and suggestions. I'm dying to get my 4 eye on the road SOON!!!

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

OK guys, I'm about ready to build my motor. 1986 5.0 that's totally stock at this time. After beating myself up over what to do, I've decided on the following:

Bored .030
Original crank
Original rods
Trick Flow pistons
Trick flow Street heat top end kit
70mm or 75mm throttle body
EGR spacer

I do have a few question I'm hoping you guys can help me with.

-- What kind/type/brand lifters should I use?
-- Should I use a dish type piston with no valve reliefs or a flat top piston with 2 valve reliefs? Trick Flow parts TFS-51404000 or TFS-51404010-1
-- The top end kit comes with the mild Stage 1 cam. Should I swap that out for the fair idle stage 2 cam? I like the rough idle so I'm not sure if I'll get it with the stage 1

I decided on the street heat kit because it claims 350 HP and 370lb/ft of torque where as the Track heat kit claims 360HP and 350lb/ft of torque. I know I'm not gonna see that HP but I'm hoping for the extra torque. What do you guys think, am I on the right track here.

Thanks for the help and suggestions. I'm dying to get my 4 eye on the road SOON!!!

You can use the FRPP/stock type lifters, no problem.

Don't use dished pistons unless you're planning boost down the road. You'll probably make less then awe inspiring power with low compression.

The stage 1 isn't a bad cam and it's got a decent lope at idle. The stage 2 will probably have a bit more lope, but you'll likely sacrifice low end torque a bit more than with the stage 1. It's got a little more duration, but quite a bit more lift, so you'll want to measure PTV clearance, even with the TFS pistons.

The Street Heat is a good kit, but 350 HP is probably being generous. Most of us running that setup tend to end up around 300 at the wheels. The Track Heat intake is better suited to the stage 2 cam, but then again, so is the stage 1. Not quite apples to apples, but I'm running the Typhoon and it pulls hard up to the rev limiter. It has practically no bottom end with stock gears, but after 3 grand, it takes off. The Track Heat would be the similar, since they're both short runner intakes with an advertised 1500-6500 RPM range.

 

[02stangman]

You can use the FRPP/stock type lifters, no problem.

Don't use dished pistons unless you're planning boost down the road. You'll probably make less then awe inspiring power with low compression.

The stage 1 isn't a bad cam and it's got a decent lope at idle. The stage 2 will probably have a bit more lope, but you'll likely sacrifice low end torque a bit more than with the stage 1. It's got a little more duration, but quite a bit more lift, so you'll want to measure PTV clearance, even with the TFS pistons.

The Street Heat is a good kit, but 350 HP is probably being generous. Most of us running that setup tend to end up around 300 at the wheels. The Track Heat intake is better suited to the stage 2 cam, but then again, so is the stage 1. Not quite apples to apples, but I'm running the Typhoon and it pulls hard up to the rev limiter. It has practically no bottom end with stock gears, but after 3 grand, it takes off. The Track Heat would be the similar, since they're both short runner intakes with an advertised 1500-6500 RPM range.

So basically I shouldn't try to "redo" what Trick FLow has already put together..LOL From what youre telling me and what I'm looking for out of this car, I'll be fine with the Street Heat kit and stay with the Stage one Cam.

I don't plan on any boost or anything down the road so I'll take your advice and go with the Flat top pistons.

Is there anything else I need to know or am missing with this setup?

Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it!!!

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

You could in a sense "redo" certain aspects of the kit, as I'm sure it could be improved upon. A custom ground cam would likely make a big difference, but they tend to have a $3-400 pricetag attached to them, too. I hadn't planned boost when I did mine, but now there's a Vortech residing under my hood, so that's something to take into consideration. Once you have a little power, you want more.

Alright, back to the stage 2 cam/Track Heat... Don't fear the advertised RPM range, even if this is your daily driver. You'll still make plenty of power and can always compensate for a loss of low end with gears. I'm still running my untouched, factory 3.08 rear. Even with 285 rear tires, I could side step the clutch and make a nice smoke show with little effort. The biggest concern I'd have with the stage 2 would be whether or not the heads have the upgraded springs that will allow .563" lift at the valve without coil bind.

I mentioned before that mine doesn't really come to life until after 3 grand, but any of the times I've driven it, there's never been an issue where I thought "man, I wish I had more power to get off the line." Our goals for our cars may vary, however. I like winding it up, so the loss of bottom end helps me get off the line with street tires a little bit. I haven't started it with the Vortech yet, so I'll have to determine how that goes when the time comes. Let's see if anyone else replies that may be running the stage 2, so you can get a more objective opinion, since mine is all related to the stage 1.

 

[2000xp8]

Since you intend to leave the car this way without any future improvements, for sure get the heads valve jobbed and bowls cleaned up.
And add a custom cam.

This way you want be saying that you wish you did.

 

[fford]

sounds like you got solid information on the top end portion. I would suggest if you are using stock lower end components to at least upgrade the rod bolt to either ARP or a larger diameter. Seems to be a weakness on the 302 rods. Fairly inexpensive to do and well worth the few dollars.

 

[02stangman]

Sounds good guys. Thanks for the info. Hopefully I'll have it built and in the car in a few weeks.

 

[02stangman]

Quick question...From what I see, I will benefit from switching to Mass Air. What would be a good MAF and Throttle body combo for my set up?

 

[2000xp8]

You really have no choice other than to switch to mass air.
Once you exceed 19lb injectors and add a cam that are outside what SD is capable of, you pretty much have to. Ya, it can be done without it, but it's more trouble than its work.

mass air meter-pro m or pmas, NOT a C&L
TB-70mm

 

[02stangman]

WOW...this is turning into more of a project than I thought..I love it!!!

So would a 77mm MAF, 70mm TB and 24lb injectors be a good?

Or should I go with

the Pro-M 80 MAF, 75mm TB and 30lb injectors?

Also, if I end up buying a used MAF can I reprogram it with either someone doing a custom tune for me or with the tweecer?

 

[2000xp8]

If you can get an 80mm pro for 24's, that's probably optimal.
Then the 77mm for 24's
Last choice the 75mm, i think the 75 is the only one readily available new these days.

No 30's, they are too much. HCI swaps barely require 24's.

PMAS will recalibrate any pro m meter, just keep in mind it's about $100

The 80 would probably be the only one worth recalibrating costs, not sure on the 77, and certainly not on the 75.

You don't want to have to program it in (IMO) with a programmer. The way it should be done is, you get the car right before a tuner, then use the tuner to tweak it, not fix things you should of done to begin with.

 

[02stangman]

If you can get an 80mm pro for 24's, that's probably optimal.
Then the 77mm for 24's
Last choice the 75mm, i think the 75 is the only one readily available new these days.

No 30's, they are too much. HCI swaps barely require 24's.

PMAS will recalibrate any pro m meter, just keep in mind it's about $100

The 80 would probably be the only one worth recalibrating costs, not sure on the 77, and certainly not on the 75.

You don't want to have to program it in (IMO) with a programmer. The way it should be done is, you get the car right before a tuner, then use the tuner to tweak it, not fix things you should of done to begin with.

Thanks man, I appreciate the info. And I agree with you on the tuner. I would never use one to mask a problem with the car. I was just wondering if I could use a tuner to reprogram a MAF if I happened to get one for a different size injector.... Doesn't matter now 'cause I'm gonna get one that's set up for the injectors I'm getting.

It's time to go shopping