Alright, lets talk about subframe connectors

hotmustang331

Active Member
Apr 29, 2004
2,967
3
48
Bastrop,TX
After adding all this power, I really NEED to do this lol. Ill wind up messing my cars body up if I dont....and im already noticing more creeks and rattles. :shrug:

Anywho, basically what I need to know is HOW strong is strong enough? I wont be pulling wheel stands or anything, and I doubt I will ever even launch at the track with anything other than DRs. And you can be sure that the car will NEVER see an auto cross. :rlaugh:

Im between these two SFCs. Im leaning towards the first do to their awsome ground clearance, and leight weight design...but im not sure HOW strong they are.

J&M

http://www.hotpart.com/index.php?p=show&id=40

The ever popular MM

http://www.maximummotorsports.com

Discuss and thanks for any and all help :flag:
 
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Make sure whoever welds them doesn't start your interior on fire :D That's my only advice.

Not very likely, inless they are burning holes through your frame rails...which isn't gooe to begin with ;)

The MM are great. Those J&M's look good too - only thing I would be worried about is the less mounting points, puts more stress on the spots the connector attaches. If I was to do them again, I would just have them custom made by a chassis fab shop along with a cage (you need one of these...lol). My frame rails were bent to hell from improper jacking and misplaced jack stands, took some fab + bending the connector with a shop press to get them to fit.
 
MM is the way to go. They have a lot more area to weld to the car- they say you can jack along any part of them once installed.

Benny's right- Id look at getting an MM cage setup while your at it!
.... I wish I had enough HP to worry about a cage :(
 
Have them reinforce you torque boxes when they weld in the subframe connectors.
FYI You can run a Road Race suspension on a drag car. It just means you can have more fun then just going straightline fast. My buddy races his 10.9 sec. 96 gt with a full griggs road race suspension. It hooks great, handles even better. Also you wont be blowing your tires away all the time.
 
Have them reinforce you torque boxes when they weld in the subframe connectors.
FYI You can run a Road Race suspension on a drag car. It just means you can have more fun then just going straightline fast. My buddy races his 10.9 sec. 96 gt with a full griggs road race suspension. It hooks great, handles even better. Also you wont be blowing your tires away all the time.


+1 on welding your stuff. Take out the back seat and carpet when doing the upper torque boxes, they got hot enough to start to melt my dynamat!

Yeah, pretty much that's what I've decided to do with my car - make it handle, and hey, if it can go straight fast that's nice too.
 
Im going to check out Laurel Mountain Mustang before I buy....but im now going to go with MM (unless LMM has a better product IMO).

And WOW 311 sorry to see that mang....that has to suck! I will definatly keep an eye on the interior. And my dad will be welding it up with his mig welder...


Oh and I also checked out the kenny brown stuff before...but man the whole kit was expencive! And since its designed to be used all toggethor, I really wouldnt want to just get the SFCs, even though they offer it. MMs are designed as stand alones.

Again, THANKS guys for the input. And maybe we will weld up the torque boxes too ( are they just spot welded from the factory?) . And we arent just going to run a steady bead down it....thats whats catching things on fire haha.
 
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/fordgasmz/100_1140.jpg

Yeah but was that from welding on SFC's or having the torque boxes welded? I honestly can't see how you could light the interior on fire through heat transfer if all you're doing is welding on SFC's...especially if you are doing it CORRECTLY! I checked my interior often, and it wasn't even warm. Like I said tho, torque boxes is another story, they sit right under the rear seat section of the floor pan, and when you're them up you weld the torque box to the floor pan (very very thin metal, very very hot welder hah).