Im sure my clutch is just dying, but regardless I want to figure out a few things on this damn clutch adjustment. Setup is RBT700 Clutch from MMR (looked today, it's blue, so it may not be an RBT700 as I was previously told), Steeda Double Hook Quadrant, Steeda Firewall Adjuster (getting swapped for a Fiore that I already have), and a pos adjustable cable (getting swapped out with an oem cable I already have).
I bought the car with the adjuster screwed in pretty close to the firewall, clutch was chattery, I screwed it out (turned counter clockwise) before heading to the dyno, and then it started to slip bad once on the dyno. We screwed it in a bit, and it held a LITTLE better on the dyno, but still wouldnt make a pull without slipping. I screwed it in a bit more the next day and it seemed to drive better, but still slipped in 4th when rolling into it from 70 or so, the car will spin the tires from anything in second or third gear, without any any clutch slip though.
It's always been very close to be screwed in all the way, which is weird compared to cars I have had in the past, usually you can see the threads of the adjuster somewhat. The cable is on the bottom hook of the quadrant, closest towards the back of the car, or the farthest away from the firewall.
Pic of said quadrant for example
http://www.steeda.com/products/_high...ook-Clutch.jpg
I did turn it in even more tonight, and tried to get a dime thickness between the adjuster and cable sheath. It shifts better now, and is less chattery than it has been, but I dont know if it needs to go in more, or what.
Some people say to get a 1/8" gap between the TOB and the pressure plate, and some say to run it the way they came stock, which is with the tob lightly resting on the fingers. I have heard that you arent supposed to do that once you get rid of the stock self adjusting quadrant. Any opinions on this? I looked today, and mine is touching the pressure plate, and the cable is already pretty loose (it's not pulling the fork into the pressure plate, but there is light tension at the fork), so Im not even sure how you could change this by adjusting the cable.
There is a loud squeaking coming from the clutch area when pressing the pedal, you can hear it in the car, and when under the car, it's insanely loud. It creaks the whole time the pedal is being pushed down.
I have an LDC Freeplay Corrector Kit that I havent installed as well, some Cobra people seem to like them, then some dont. I thought people were dialing all of the freeplay out of the pedal with this, but reading the directions that came with it, it says to leave free play at the top of the pedal.
It's been years since I really messed with adjusting a clutch, and there are so many damn opinions on it these days. I just dont remember ever having a firewall adjuster screwed in so far. The clutch engages up towards the top of the pedal, which is what I like, but adjusting it hasnt changed it much in that respect.
I bought the car with the adjuster screwed in pretty close to the firewall, clutch was chattery, I screwed it out (turned counter clockwise) before heading to the dyno, and then it started to slip bad once on the dyno. We screwed it in a bit, and it held a LITTLE better on the dyno, but still wouldnt make a pull without slipping. I screwed it in a bit more the next day and it seemed to drive better, but still slipped in 4th when rolling into it from 70 or so, the car will spin the tires from anything in second or third gear, without any any clutch slip though.
It's always been very close to be screwed in all the way, which is weird compared to cars I have had in the past, usually you can see the threads of the adjuster somewhat. The cable is on the bottom hook of the quadrant, closest towards the back of the car, or the farthest away from the firewall.
Pic of said quadrant for example
http://www.steeda.com/products/_high...ook-Clutch.jpg
I did turn it in even more tonight, and tried to get a dime thickness between the adjuster and cable sheath. It shifts better now, and is less chattery than it has been, but I dont know if it needs to go in more, or what.
Some people say to get a 1/8" gap between the TOB and the pressure plate, and some say to run it the way they came stock, which is with the tob lightly resting on the fingers. I have heard that you arent supposed to do that once you get rid of the stock self adjusting quadrant. Any opinions on this? I looked today, and mine is touching the pressure plate, and the cable is already pretty loose (it's not pulling the fork into the pressure plate, but there is light tension at the fork), so Im not even sure how you could change this by adjusting the cable.
There is a loud squeaking coming from the clutch area when pressing the pedal, you can hear it in the car, and when under the car, it's insanely loud. It creaks the whole time the pedal is being pushed down.
I have an LDC Freeplay Corrector Kit that I havent installed as well, some Cobra people seem to like them, then some dont. I thought people were dialing all of the freeplay out of the pedal with this, but reading the directions that came with it, it says to leave free play at the top of the pedal.
It's been years since I really messed with adjusting a clutch, and there are so many damn opinions on it these days. I just dont remember ever having a firewall adjuster screwed in so far. The clutch engages up towards the top of the pedal, which is what I like, but adjusting it hasnt changed it much in that respect.
